B

brianjbox

Active Member
Hi all

110" Defender [1996]

Probably simple if you've done it before but I haven't:eek:

Clutch pedal when depressed squeaks like it need some WD 40 in somewhere but where? I'm guessing a pivot bush or something similar but damned if I can find the top of the pedals to squirt the stuff.

Brakes squealing, I was going to copper grease the backs of the pads today but can't get the freestyle alloys off:(
How do I get alloys off without damaging them.

Cheers all

Brian
 
Get a hide mallet or rubber dead blow mallet and beat them into submission!!!!! Or hit the 6 o'clock position of the wheel on the inside turn it a bit hit again and repeat till loose (providing you have undone all 5 of the wheel nuts :p )
 
jamesmartin said:
top of pedal box removes with 6 screws
Click to expand...

Is this visible from inside or under the bonnet, sorry but I couldn't see anything to remove when I looked [but then didn't know what I was looking for:eek:]

paddy700d said:
Get a hide mallet or rubber dead blow mallet and beat them into submission!!!!! Or hit the 6 o'clock position of the wheel on the inside turn it a bit hit again and repeat till loose (providing you have undone all 5 of the wheel nuts :p )
Click to expand...

Thor1950 said:
6lb sledge hit the tyre hard don't miss
Click to expand...

Many thanks guys, I have both those hammers;) and I was thinking I needed some sort of special puller:rolleyes: :lol:
 
brianjbox said:
Thanks James, just been out and found it. Didn't realise it was that high up, I was looking for something low down sort of pedal level:eek:

Cheers all, know what I'll be doing tomorrow:D
Click to expand...

whole box including pedal can be removed easily by undoing bolts going up into pedal box from top of footwell,though im not suggesting you have to ,but it makes changing master cylinder etc easy
 
Hi all

I have sorted the clutch lever squeaking and had the sledge hammer on the wheels to copper grease the front pads [back of;)] and was surprised to see no anti squeal shims fitted?

Is this right for a 96 110" defender or do I need to buy some.

Thanks again

Brian
 
Not all of them have shims. They seem to work perfectly well without. This might be a silly question but is there enough friction material left on your pads? And is the friction material still firmly stuck to the metal backing plate? I've had them come apart in the past, which contributes to brake noise.

What was keeping your wheels on? Was it just that they'd stuck themselves to the hubs with corrosion? Bit of grease on the contact surface might help if you want them to come off again.
 
Brown said:
Not all of them have shims. They seem to work perfectly well without. This might be a silly question but is there enough friction material left on your pads? And is the friction material still firmly stuck to the metal backing plate? I've had them come apart in the past, which contributes to brake noise.

What was keeping your wheels on? Was it just that they'd stuck themselves to the hubs with corrosion? Bit of grease on the contact surface might help if you want them to come off again.
Click to expand...

Hi

I was expecting worn old pads but they look quite new, well known make [pajid] as well. I have a couple of workshop manuals my son downloaded for me and they showed an earlier and later style retaining clips for keeping pads in, mine were neither.
I have two solid pins passing through caliper pad, a thin spring on pin between pads and a split pin in the end, not sure what the purpose of the thin spring is?

Alloy wheels seem to fit tight over hub I guess to centralise them a bit, you have to use the nuts to pull them on because they're that tight. Came off easy now I know how;)

Thor1950 said:
there is a chirper metal clip that rubs on the rotor when pads are worn
Click to expand...

Not got that on my pads but have seen them fitted on other cars I've owned.

I did a quick search on ebay for defender anti squeal shims for brakes and came up with none:confused:
 
You *might* have the wrong hubs for your alloys, (freestyles, Right?). On mine, '89 110 hicap, the drive flange bolts sat too proud to let the wheel sit flush on the hub, no matter how tight I did the wheel nuts up.

This leaves you with 2 options as I see it.

1.
Grind a bit of 'meat' out of the inside of the alloy, where it hits the drive flange nuts.

2.
Remove the washer from the drive flange bolts. Then use some Loctite or similar to make sure they wont come undone. This should give you enough clearance to seat the wheel properly on the hub. This is what I did.

HTH
 
brianjbox said:
Hi

I was expecting worn old pads but they look quite new, well known make [pajid] as well. I have a couple of workshop manuals my son downloaded for me and they showed an earlier and later style retaining clips for keeping pads in, mine were neither.
I have two solid pins passing through caliper pad, a thin spring on pin between pads and a split pin in the end, not sure what the purpose of the thin spring is?

Alloy wheels seem to fit tight over hub I guess to centralise them a bit, you have to use the nuts to pull them on because they're that tight. Came off easy now I know how;)



Not got that on my pads but have seen them fitted on other cars I've owned.

I did a quick search on ebay for defender anti squeal shims for brakes and came up with none:confused:
Click to expand...

Pretty much what I've got on my front brakes. The coil springs just keep the pads apart off the disc when not in use and stop them rattling. They feel as if they're too soft to do the job but they seem to work. On the hubs, later models have thinner drive flanges which might be a solution if yours are fouling the alloy wheels. I think they changed somewhere during the lifetime of the 300tdi so you may have thick ones on currently.
 
Hi all

Yep those little thin springs seem far to week to be doing anything but I've put them back anyway;)

Went out today with my freshly cleaned/copper grease front brakes and still squealing, could have sworn it'd be the fronts so tomorrow I will be stripping the back brakes down:rolleyes:

The wheels fitting tight to the hubs [not fouling anything just snug] I thought was a good thing as it helps centralise the wheels, I offered up one of the proper alloy wheel nuts to the holes in the wheels and they did have a little movement so wouldn't centralise perfectly. As the wheel nuts aren't tapered [flat back washer] they just hold the wheel back tightly and the wheels centralise on the hubs, well that's what I'm hoping and now I know the sledge hammer trick no prob's;) :lol:
 
Update: took the back wheels off expecting to find knackered pads but again looked newish [pagid], still had copper grease on back.
I stripped them out, cleaned and wire brushed them all over, liberally sprayed them with brake cleaner and let them dry, applied fresh copper grease on backs and reassembled.
Went out for a test drive and no noise:confused: guessing contaminated pad linings??? don't know what else it could have been but no more squeaks and squeals:D

Cheers all that participated in this thread:5bcheers2:

Brian
 
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