Rachelkgr · May 17, 2014

2001 DHSE

So I have one one of those solar panels to trickle charge a car battery. I can mount the panel in the car easily, but am struggling with connection to the battery.

Option a) - They supplied an ODBC plug, but I suspect the P38 plug is not really compatible, even though it fits.

Option b) - They also supplied a couple of crocadile clips to connect the panel directly to the battery. I could rig this to be perminent, but wonder what would happen if I started the engine and started to charge the battery from the alternator, would this perminent connection damage the panel?

Option c) - I could attach a cigarette lighter plug to the panel, then plug this in to the cigarette socket in the cabin. Would this work? Is the lighter connected directly to the battery in a way that the charge would make it through??

Thank you

Rachel

Datatek · May 17, 2014

Rachelkgr said:
2001 DHSE

So I have one one of those solar panels to trickle charge a car battery. I can mount the panel in the car easily, but am struggling with connection to the battery.

Option a) - They supplied an ODBC plug, but I suspect the P38 plug is not really compatible, even though it fits.

Option b) - They also supplied a couple of crocadile clips to connect the panel directly to the battery. I could rig this to be perminent, but wonder what would happen if I started the engine and started to charge the battery from the alternator, would this perminent connection damage the panel?

Option c) - I could attach a cigarette lighter plug to the panel, then plug this in to the cigarette socket in the cabin. Would this work? Is the lighter connected directly to the battery in a way that the charge would make it through??

Thank you

Rachel

a) Not a good idea on the P38 IMO due to the volt drop on the wiring.

b)The panel will have a blocking diode so it will not be damaged by starting the engine.

c) The lighter socket on the P38 is only live with the ignition on.

Best solution is to hard wire a socket just for the panel direct, via fuse from the battery. I have one fitted in the boot so I can leave the panel on the rear parcel shelf

Rachelkgr · May 17, 2014

Datatek said:
a) Not a good idea on the P38 IMO due to the volt drop on the wiring.

b)The panel will have a blocking diode so it will not be damaged by starting the engine.

c) The lighter socket on the P38 is only live with the ignition on.

Best solution is to hard wire a socket just for the panel direct, via fuse from the battery. I have one fitted in the boot so I can leave the panel on the rear parcel shelf

Thanks Keith.....so negative to negative on battery, positive to positive on battery (with fuse in line)?

zen · May 17, 2014

plumbfisher · May 17, 2014

If the problem is to do with battery going flat or losing charge, then of course I hope your solar panel works. But one of the best and easiest upgrades IMO is to get the (Datatek recommended) 130A battery. I've posted previously about how good this has been for me, it sorted out all the odd messages I had been getting on the display and starting is always so easy and reliable now. I think the thing is that it will even stand the BCM not going off to sleep properly and yet still have plenty of power left for starting. (and its only £90 delivered) I hope this helps

Rachelkgr · May 18, 2014

zen said:
yep.

Thanks

Rachelkgr · May 18, 2014

plumbfisher said:
If the problem is to do with battery going flat or losing charge, then of course I hope your solar panel works. But one of the best and easiest upgrades IMO is to get the (Datatek recommended) 130A battery. I've posted previously about how good this has been for me, it sorted out all the odd messages I had been getting on the display and starting is always so easy and reliable now. I think the thing is that it will even stand the BCM not going off to sleep properly and yet still have plenty of power left for starting. (and its only £90 delivered) I hope this helps

Thanks. I think my battery is new, but do need to check the ampage!

Bix · May 18, 2014

If you get big volt drop don't superlock the car. It worked for me. Also turned out the reason for my drop was a neighbour has one of those remote control caravan gizmo's which every time he used it spazzed out my vehicle while in superlock.

As for starting with the panel attached, check what the manufacture says. My panel cannot be attached while starting.

zen · May 18, 2014

most if all panels have current limiting, ie cant draw to much current to harm it...
if worried about voltage spikes while cranking put a 100uf 50v cap across the solar panel wires, but at panel end..but you need to..

ady014 · May 18, 2014

Most of those panels are only designed to maintain a healthy battery not to top one up that is being discharged. Max output on the ones I've seen is only .1a in full sunlight. It's fine if your car does not have a parasitic drain but isn't used for long periods but will not work if you are using it to mask a fault.

Rachelkgr · May 18, 2014

Thanks for all the great advice........

Datatek · May 18, 2014

ady014 said:
Most of those panels are only designed to maintain a healthy battery not to top one up that is being discharged. Max output on the ones I've seen is only .1a in full sunlight. It's fine if your car does not have a parasitic drain but isn't used for long periods but will not work if you are using it to mask a fault.

The one I have is 12 watts

Rachelkgr

Active Member

Datatek

Well-Known Member

Rachelkgr

Active Member

zen

Well-Known Member

plumbfisher

Active Member

Rachelkgr

Active Member

Rachelkgr

Active Member

Bix

Loading...

zen

Well-Known Member

ady014

Active Member

Rachelkgr

Active Member

Datatek

Well-Known Member

Similar threads