duncanpage4

duncanpage4

Active Member
Hi envy one
I'm looking at getting a new clutch for my 2001 Td4 as I think the clutch is slipping since fitting the Synergy 2a tuning box.
At around 2500rpm the revs increase without the speed increasing at the equivalent rate, then the revs settle down again.

So I was thinking of fitting a decent clutch rather than a cheapo version.

I think a Stage 3 clutch is a bit overkill & will probably make it unusable in London traffic when I visit family.
But I've noticed eBay shops offer the regular dual mass clutches and also single mass clutches.
What is the difference in design & the benefits of either of these?
What would you recommend I fit?
 
Dual mass only means the springs are in the flywheel nor the clutch friction plate. The reason they changed us to give a smoother power take up when you are heavy footed. The skoda Octavia's taxis that I used to look after al got converted to single mass. Mostly due to the second clutch replacement cost after converting though.

I prefer single myself. I can't see the point of making it easier for numpties to drive like spuds

Regarding the original question. I would buy a quality brand of clutch. Like luk or Borg and beck. Not an internet no brand. I put a cheapo clutch in the wife's puma and when I drive it with a bit of vigour I can sometimes get it to slip.
 
teddywood1 said:
+2 I have heard of a crank snapping using the solid one
Click to expand...

If the crank snapped because of a single mass flywheel replacing a duel mass flywheel, then there is a crank design failure. Or the damper pulley has failed.
I've replaced loads of DMFs with SMFs at the request of owners of VAG car's. Many owners don't notice any difference between the two except for the price.
The DMF is designed to help make the engine feel smoother and more refined for today's more fussy motorists. Personally, I can't see the point in reinventing the wheel.
 
I fitted a SMF about 6 months ago to mine after I broke everything :D

I posted a thread about it at the time with my views after having it done...
 
But if your flywheel is fine and you only need the clutch, then just go for an HD clutch, but while the clutch is off (given the work involved to do it) a lot of people fit a new flywheel and hydraulics at the same time.
 
SES88 said:
But if your flywheel is fine and you only need the clutch, then just go for an HD clutch, but while the clutch is off (given the work involved to do it) a lot of people fit a new flywheel and hydraulics at the same time.
Click to expand...


When I take the clutch apart I'll replace everything for peace of mind. Don't want to be stripping it down only to have to replace another part later!

Will have a read of your post
 
Nodge68 said:
If the crank snapped because of a single mass flywheel replacing a duel mass flywheel, then there is a crank design failure. Or the damper pulley has failed.
I've replaced loads of DMFs with SMFs at the request of owners of VAG car's. Many owners don't notice any difference between the two except for the price.
The DMF is designed to help make the engine feel smoother and more refined for today's more fussy motorists. Personally, I can't see the point in reinventing the wheel.
Click to expand...

that what was reported to me ,also I can see not point in paying out for a fly wheel when just a clutch is needed
 
teddywood1 said:
that what was reported to me ,also I can see not point in paying out for a fly wheel when just a clutch is needed
Click to expand...

Crank failure can be attributed to a few factors but I seriously doubt that a non DMF flywheel was one of them.
They can fatigue, particularly if there is a surface imperfection. This can lead to a crack forming and will eventually crack rite through, starting at the imperfection
Harmonics play a big part in crank failure over time. The firing strokes set up high frequency oscillations in the crank. These are damped out by the use of the front pulley/ damper.
The DMF is only capable of damping low frequency vibration so wouldn't help extend crank life.
Other failure is overloading or over revving, not something a TD4 needs to worry about.
 
Thanks for all the replies
Took the Freelander out today. Synergy 2a box set on 3, 5th gear up a slight hill, revs we're climbing & clutch started smelling. Definitely need to change it!!
Which clutch would cope with the most abuse? DMF or SMF?
 
Rally cars use single mass........ And a high pressure plate along with updated friction materials.

But I advise you to buy a good quality oe spec clutch unless you have loads of power or are towing 2 ton trailers all the time.
 
ZDomZ said:
I advise you to buy a good quality oe spec clutch unless you have loads of power or are towing 2 ton trailers all the time.
Click to expand...


Not towing anything yet but I do like to have the Synergy box turned up & the clutch has gone from just a heavy pedal to serious slipping.

Tempted to get the same HD clutch as SES88 so I won't have to worry about giving it abuse!
 
duncanpage4 said:
Where did you get your kit from?
Does it come with the CSC?
Click to expand...

I believe it comes with everything to convert, I didn't fit or source it, garage down in Yorkshire where my car was stranded did all that, but, its this kit...

SOLID FLYWHEEL & CLUTCH KIT (FREELANDER TD4) [LRS26050] - £445.00 : LR Land Rover Spare Parts, Specialist suppliers of Land Rover parts for all Land Rover Vehicles - Land Rover Range Rover 4x4 Replacement Parts - All Land Rover and Range Rover makes
 
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