jai_landrover

jai_landrover

Well-Known Member
Question for yu all,

Where can I get single acting shock absorbers? As in original equipment for LR's years gone by.

Does anyone know if Paddocks cheapies are only single acting or indeed double acting???
 
By single action do you mean they only 'dampen' in one direction (i guess compress) but in extend there is no dampening?
 
Bump said:
By single action do you mean they only 'dampen' in one direction (i guess compress) but in extend there is no dampening?
Click to expand...


Aye Exactly that. Reason I ask is just a bit curious weather the new cheapo britpart ones are single or double acting I suspect all modern shocks are double acting but that may be completly wrong.
 
I have never heard of a landrover having a one way s/absorber , they may well have different compression and rebound rates but I have never come across one that acts in one direction only :)
 
The swb act in one direction only. I changed my front shocks recently and am pretty certain they damped one way. Still have rears in boxes and can check. They were the cheap standards from Paddocks.
 
Apparently it was a quite an important factor in early Series motors the axle would drop into a hole and maintain drive axle straps were to stop the weight of the axle damaging the shocks when they bottomed out. Nowdays I believe that they have all been changed to double acting. but was interested in what was available nowdays.
 
Sorry to hijack the thread but while we are on about shocks for SWB S3s, are standard Armstrong ones okay for a bit off roading or should I invest in heavy duty ones. I will check my front replacements in the garage to see if they are single or double and be back in a min.
 
I'd run £12 specials from paddocks (believe they are Armstrongs) by choice. I have a set of +2's on my trialer so will keep them. No real need to upgrade unless your doing offroad at speed. The heat is what kills them. Usual road and offroad driving slowly/trials pay and play then I'd say that a cheapo shock is perfect.
 
Okay, just checked the front replacement ones and they are hard to pull out but compress with some resistance but not quite as much as pulling out, if this makes sense.
 
jai_landrover said:
I'd run £12 specials from paddocks (believe they are Armstrongs) by choice. I have a set of +2's on my trialer so will keep them. No real need to upgrade unless your doing offroad at speed. The heat is what kills them. Usual road and offroad driving slowly/trials pay and play then I'd say that a cheapo shock is perfect.
Click to expand...
Good Man, thanks for the advice.:)
 
Btw, mine were bought from ebay as n.o.s. I think the guy was in Fife or up that way, he does clearences and were fairly cheap.i can find out more if anyone is interested send a PM as I may not find myself back into this thread.
 
Hey Crashbox I'm gonna try and look up some more info on these single vs double acting. i suspect they are no longer available will do some searching. My Procomps are plus 2's but old. I have some issues with mounting them to comply with ALRC Regs and a RRC front axle/trackrod.
 
jai_landrover said:
Hey Crashbox I'm gonna try and look up some more info on these single vs double acting. i suspect they are no longer available will do some searching. My Procomps are plus 2's but old. I have some issues with mounting them to comply with ALRC Regs and a RRC front axle/trackrod.
Click to expand...
Interesting, I looked up my ebay history and bought the front set from a lister called PAPKO for £14.50 plus £9.99 p+p. I had a look on his listing but he isn't listing them anymore but he had quite a few sets before. I see he is selling a Tirfor for £199. What are the issues with the ALRC regarding the shockers?
 
The rear track rod on a Rangerover axle will hit the shock absorber when on full lock. I may need to move the bottom shock mount forwards by approx 30-40mm so that it will not foul.

I'm halfway through fitting a RR/Disco Front axle to my series 1 trialer. There is no nice way of doing it. So I end up fabricating spacers to lift the axle up to get the track rod to clear the springs, maintain the castor angle and keep the diff at a sensible angle. Add to this the starter is an SD1 so will need to be changed or get hit by the propshaft. Shocks do not fit plenty of issues but overcoming them one by one slowly. All this to get a strong front end!!
 
The rear is a salisbury from a 109 with austin champ offset rims,
The front is RRC with swb rims narrow min offset.

I have Kam HD front shafts to go in and a P38 4 pin diff center in a rover casing. I have an ashcroft front (correct rotation) CWP to go on aswell so its all strong and the outer stub shafts will be a fuse/weak point in the drivetrain.
 
LOL, okay, I think I get most of this, good idea having the fuse point though, never looked at the drivetrain in that way before. Good luck.
 
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