S

slihp

New Member
Hi guys;

new to land rovers so need some guidance. looking to purchase a defender, was originaly only going to spend 1-2k but as the mpg and reliability dosent seem to be the greatest. have decided to spend a bit more to get a better modle. I realy like the truck cabs and have seen this one here is the spec


1996 (p reg) land rover defender TDi

TRUCK CAB, P reg. only 71,000 miles, usual extras, well looked after, all old MOTs, drives excellent, only. £4,995. ono, px (+ VAT).



it looks like what i want and is in good condition so is this a fair price for it.

cheers phil
 
If it really is in good nick, with that mileage and service history, then that's a fair price for a 300 TDi.
 
im not sure if it is a 300tdi or a 200td, how can you tell, did they stop making 200's after a certain year or something. I have noticed that defenders seem to hold there value realy well. if well looked after and low mileage (10k/year) what you this 5k defender depriciate over 4 years. the reason i ask is it seems to be advisible to trade your car every 2-3 years before they depriciate to much, dose this rull applie to defenders.


so many questions.

cheers
 
howcan you tell
Click to expand...

Yeah, post '94 will be a 300. Easiest way to check are:

Dates:
Pre 1990 will be a non Tdi, either naturally aspirated or a TD.
1990 to 1994 = 200Tdi
1994 to 1998 = 300Tdi
1998 to 2007 = TD5
2007 = Ford Duratorque Transit engine

Location of reverse on the gearbox - if you move the stick below 5th to find reverse then it's a R380 gearbox which was factory fitted to the 300's.

Location of the air intake - not the heater one on top of the wing, but the engine intake on the side of the wing. If it's drivers side it's a 300, passenger side and its a 200.

Look at the drive belt for the alternator and other ancilliaries - if it's a long snake like belt that drives all the ancilliaries it's a 300, if there are individual belts for each ancilliary it's a 200.

300's sit further forward in the engine bay - although this won't be a lot of help unless you've got an earlier one to compare it with.

As far as depreciation goes, it's not going to lose much in the next 4 years provided it's well looked after. If it's used and abused for 4 years and left to it's own devices then expect it to be virtually worthless afterwards. Take care of it, clean and treat the chassis for rust regularly and make sure it's regularly serviced and it might even hold onto it's value.

The Tdi's are widely accepted as 'the engine' to have in a Defender although thanks to the Euro emissions regulations they were only in production for 8 or 9 years so they're likely to be comparatively sought after in the future compared with the TD5.

Cheers,
 
thanks for the reply guys. looking forward to getting out of the buy-sell car cycle and getting a good defender to maintain.
 
Yep, what Adz said.

Somehow, he still manages to look a dude in an anorak & there's not many that can carry off that look. ;)
 
If you dont buy that one make sure its
a 200tdi or 300tdi you buy 300tdi wins
in my book ,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
Only cuz you bought one and realised too late that a 200 wuz a better bet if you want to fix it yerself ;)
 
My Mind was made up to get a 200tdi
but I cannot fix anything so the 300tdi
will do niceley................
 
are you sure the question int " why is the 300 hardER to work on that the 200? and stop larfing at yer own mustakes
 
I don't work on the mechanicals bits but like doing all the
other bits but for your answer to the question 2b or not 2b
300tdi or 200tdi I have been told over & over that 200tdi is easier
to work on as there is no electronics.................etc etc
 
what electronics? i have a 95 300tdi and it has hardly any electronics in fact no more than the 200tdi as far as i no, my mum had a 98 300tdi that did have the exhuast gas recurculation vavle which can be disconnected and a blank plate can be brought, depanding where u read the 300 is up on power having 111bhp over the 200's 107 ok so its no diffrence but the noise is lol
 
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