Anybody ever converted a Range Rover, Disco, or any other Landy to hydropneumatic suspensions as fitted on Rolls Royce and Citroen?

Seems to me that if properly done, it would beat the crap out of both EAS and coils...

Anything is doable with enough time, patience and money

Whats wrong with good old simple springs?

great idea ...the eas has proved ever so reliable so summit even more complicated can be even more reliable

I though this was a joke,but he was actually serious ffs

You cannot be serious. The problems that R.R. had with that system meant that either cars were going back to Crewe or being scrapped, seriously. At least with the Rangie system you can fix it yourself, maybe with a little help, and you can find second hand spares and service parts fairly easily.

Where would the articulation come from?

EAS is totally unsuited to work in the real bush, but it IS bloody comfortable.

Citroen suspensions are much more reliable than EAS, and if you have a burst sphere/accumulator you can change it in a matter of minutes anywhere you are. Mercedes, Rolls, and many others have used them, and these are not "cheapie" cars.

Adjustable ride height, self-levelling, possibility to cross-link. Although the technology is more demanding than EAS in terms of engineering, the system's workings are actually simpler, with no need for electronics. There are tons of components available from breakers, and new replacement spheres cost the princely sum of 20 quids or thereabout.

So, it's not that stupid an idea.

I wouldn't fancy doing that much work for it still to be able to go wrong!
If I did that much work I would make it so that it outlasted the vehicle

I have the new C5 with the hydrospastic suspension, and yep its been back to the dealers already under warranty for a suspension fault, so i would say NO NO NO NO NO dont be so feckin stupid!!!

DiscoPol said:

I have the new C5 with the hydrospastic suspension, and yep its been back to the dealers already under warranty for a suspension fault, so i would say NO NO NO NO NO dont be so feckin stupid!!!

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Good old fashioned springs FTW :high5:

DiscoPol said:

I have the new C5 with the hydrospastic suspension, and yep its been back to the dealers already under warranty for a suspension fault, so i would say NO NO NO NO NO dont be so feckin stupid!!!

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Ahhh you see, what you have there is a common fault, its affectionately known in the trade as french car syndrome... unfortuantly the only known cure for this is to sell and buy something non french, be warned thought, there are worse problems out there, italian car syndrome is much much worse...

Had my fill of hydro bolloks suspension back in the days..

nice (not) minis, allagro`s, 1100`s, and pride of fleet, princesses!!!

if you saw a leyland car looking shot on one side,
it had a leak somewhere in its suspenders..

but the thing was, running right they were "smooth"
if not a little sick inducing with the gentle rolling back and forth motion it gave you.

I made a hydrolastic pump up tool from a girling master cylinder mounted on a plate with a 2 foot long handle to pump the system full of its bright green snot!

It worked, and leylands with a limp got better for a while..

Kano said:

EAS is totally unsuited to work in the real bush, but it IS bloody comfortable.

Citroen suspensions are much more reliable than EAS, and if you have a burst sphere/accumulator you can change it in a matter of minutes anywhere you are. Mercedes, Rolls, and many others have used them, and these are not "cheapie" cars.

Adjustable ride height, self-levelling, possibility to cross-link. Although the technology is more demanding than EAS in terms of engineering, the system's workings are actually simpler, with no need for electronics. There are tons of components available from breakers, and new replacement spheres cost the princely sum of 20 quids or thereabout.

So, it's not that stupid an idea.

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Air is much cheaper and easier to carry in the bush than hydrolastic suspension oil.

I suppose you want the brakes and power steering to run off the same crappy hdrolastic system too for that authentic no steering, no stopping and no suspension brown trouser moment?

easye1 said:

I made a hydrolastic pump up tool from a girling master cylinder mounted on a plate with a 2 foot long handle to pump the system full of its bright green snot!

It worked, and leylands with a limp got better for a while..

Click to expand...

That's the spirit...!

In too many systems there are complications that can turn a good idea into a nightmare, but with common sense and out-of-the-box thinking, one can find solutions.

Saying "Can't" never got humanity one inch further along the road.

Easye1, what else did you come up with?

Kano said:

That's the spirit...!

In too many systems there are complications that can turn a good idea into a nightmare, but with common sense and out-of-the-box thinking, one can find solutions.

Saying "Can't" never got humanity one inch further along the road.

Easye1, what else did you come up with?

Click to expand...

Hi Kano..

As I was always tinkering with bits from about 10 years old, I made up motor bikes from stuff others had thrown away.
This was the late 1950`s ..
had a nice german scooter stripped, sprayed and rebuilt all ready for when I was 16.

My 2 hands taught me how to do what I wanted from then on really..

I built a drag race car, then later stock car racers,
Banger racers, then back to scooters, then found I loved Landrovers.

To me there Is no can do,
only sit down and think,
"how can I get out of this easily, or/and make a replacement"

My Disco 1 tdi cam belt change needed holding tools,
so i just measured up, and cut them out of checker plate.
The big engine bolt socket, I made from an "Inperial" sized socket that fitted well, welded to an old broken 1/2 inch ratchet, then welded a steel tube round the outside on the socket for strength.
I used a length of scaffold pole to undo then do up again with no problems

In the past i had a beauty of a car, Honda Legend, but the damper/ front pulley was 2 piece with cast rubber bonded, which came apart.
So i slackened belts off, made 2 foot long extentions to go on tapping drill, then clearence drill starter, then a No. 2 tap, and drilled & tapped 3 equi spaced holes through middle on V belt groove in pully while still on car then locktighted 3 grub screws to hold it all in place.
Re tightend drive belts, started engine, job done.
All done without taking anything off the engine,
all working above the radiator top line, a hard job made easy!

Still holding together with new owner...lol

Must be more,
will have to get my tired old brain thinking..

A friend who had a 1800 automatic Leyland Marina with a badly worn starter ring gear welded to the flexi plate...
simples,
chalk marked position of ring gear,
put the starter plate in a 3 jaw chuck on a big lathe, a sharp V pointed tool cut out the original welds, done this both sides,
laid on steel bench, turned worn ring gear 90 degrees round,
re welded it back to flexi plate, placed back in engine, replaced gearbox & starter, perfect.
No matter where engine now stopped, the starter engaged on a "good" section of teeth...

I hate digging deep in my pockets then paying out money,
If I can engineer the problem away,
It keeps my tired old body going...lol