stutab

stutab

Well-Known Member
I am about to remove a Chrysler 3 speed auto off a 3.5 carb in a 1984 RRC. The Rangy is stripped but I am not removing the engine so the gearbox is being lifted out of the roof :eek:.

I have all the kit to do the lift, I know I will need to have a jack under the engine so it doesn't drop at thr crankshaft end. But as I have never done a strip out or removed a gearbox from an engine before is there anything I need to know before I take the bolts out of the bell housing.

If you want to see how stripped out it is look at the link below vvvvv

Cheers Stu
 
stutab said:
I am about to remove a Chrysler 3 speed auto off a 3.5 carb in a 1984 RRC. The Rangy is stripped but I am not removing the engine so the gearbox is being lifted out of the roof :eek:.

I have all the kit to do the lift, I know I will need to have a jack under the engine so it doesn't drop at thr crankshaft end. But as I have never done a strip out or removed a gearbox from an engine before is there anything I need to know before I take the bolts out of the bell housing.

If you want to see how stripped out it is look at the link below vvvvv

Cheers Stu
Click to expand...
If you are going to use it again, undo the torque convertor from the flex plate and wedge it so it stays in the bell housing. At least that's the drill for a ZF box.:)
 
Not going to use it on mine, putting a LT77 on. Sold the box and was going to ebay the rest.
 
leave engine in ,it is better to undo t/c at drive plate frirst and let t/c come out with box but can be done after ,main thing apart from supporting engine is to ensure you remove kick down cable and speedo etc first
 
Last edited:
jamesmartin said:
leave engine in ,it is better to undo t/c at drive plate frirst and let t/c come out with box but can be done after ,main thing apart from supporting engine is to ensure you remove kick down cable and speedo etc first
Click to expand...

Ye will do all that. Going to take all of the cooling pipes out as well because the LT77 has 1/2" pipes not 1/4". Hope the electrical bits are the same..
 
stutab said:
Don't like auto boxes. If I did it would stay in and would save me a shed load of work and money..
Click to expand...


autos the future mate, better ofroad and with our traffic its best on the road too. dont get me wrong I am not blowing my own trumpet as I have an lt95 4 speed in my landy
 
fett said:
autos the future mate, better ofroad and with our traffic its best on the road too. dont get me wrong I am not blowing my own trumpet as I have an lt95 4 speed in my landy
Click to expand...

If you live in a town or tow big trailers a lot I would agree, driven a lot of both. Off roading on the other hand an auto is only better if you are trying to get up a slippy hill or have to drag a loaded trailer across a field, again I have plenty experience of both. Manuals are better on B roads and country lanes, chasing livestock about, lamping and general off roading. Which will be the majority of it's use. The few times I will be towing the horse about or town driving I will put up with it. And I prefer driving Manuals, you don't need to rev the balls off them to get anywhere...
 
Bit the bullet and took it out today!!

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Just got to fit the LT77 now, going in the same way this one came out:D

Thanks for all of your advice:cheer2::5bhurray:
 
nice to see you listened to the good advice to disconnect the torque converter and keep it in the bell housing :D:clap2:
 
Couldn't figure out how to do that bit, I did look and try. Haven't really look how to get it off anyway :confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
cant remember if its 3 or 4 bolts on the chrysler box, located in front of the flex plate they bolt through the plate into the torque converter
 
There were 4 bolts, although how you are ment to take them out when removing the gearbox I don't know. The hardest bit was splitting the two crank shaft plates that sandwich the flex plate, got it all off though. Thank you all for your advice.
 
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