C

Colin from Hull

Active Member

• May 14, 2011

• #1

Hi, Removing my engine, got to the stage of separating engine from auto box. the insruction say disconect torque converter from engine flywheel 4 bolts access through hole near back of sump, this looks awkward!!!! could i remove with engine, then im removing engine mounts to get to the top bell-housing bolts, havent remove A/C rad yet, do have to, can i avoid having to re-gass system. Need gearbox oil rad if anybody got one (stripped thread) !!!!!!!!! Colin

 

C

clarkie

Active Member

• May 14, 2011

• #2

24mm socket on crank bolt to turn engine over, remove rubber bung from access point on sump starter side, turn crank untill you see driveplate bolt apear remove bolt and turn engine untill the other bolts apear and remove,you dont have to lower engine to get to the bell houseing bolts but it helps its just fiddly if you dont,if your not replacing the engine strait away fit a brace to hold the tourque converter inplace untill you do

 

C

clarkie

Active Member

• May 14, 2011

• #3

soz missed this bit,you dont need to remove a/c rad unbolt the compressor from engine and place to one side or on top of air cleaner same with power steering pump,better to remover the coolant rad for a little more room and to stop a swinging engine from smacking into it.
have fun fella

 

C

Colin from Hull

Active Member

• May 14, 2011

• #4

Hi, just came in to read any repilies, so thanks. I cant see any rubber plug. I have remove the half round cover plate on the bottom of the gearbox, i can feel the bolts,but i wouldnt get a socket and ratchet within the gap between (gearbox/back of sump) Im going back out to remove condesor, and have another look for rubber plug. So its best to leave torque converter within gearbox? I have never done an Auto before, should i be inspecting/renewing anything before, re-placing engine. Colin

 

C

craig_midz

New Member

• May 14, 2011

• #5

ive always got to torque convertor bolts by removin starter motor an gettin to em that way bigger hole to work in an it is best to leave torque convertor in box

 

vougese39

Well-Known Member

• May 14, 2011

• #6

is your sump alloy or black steel?
alloy has a molded D plate with black bungs
the steel sump has a alloy D plate remove this and rotate the crank to get at the bolts to undo the torque convertor bolts

 

C

Colin from Hull

Active Member

• May 14, 2011

• #7

Hi, Ive come in now raining!!!!! I have removed D plate and starter motor, i dont think the torque converter bolt holes line up the large starter motor hole!!!!but i will double check in morning, it has been better removing the starter motor, rotated engine and now have a socket on bolt head but not enough remove for ratchet, i think a knuckle spanner would do it, maybe get one tomorrow. Im still struggling getting the A/C radiator out the way, without de-gassing, i have un-bolted condenser but didnt really give me any movement!!!!!! I think i will also struggle to the engine high enough to get over the Rad, so i will have to do something!!!!!! Thanks again for your help!!!!!!!!Colin

 

C

clarkie

Active Member

• May 17, 2011

• #8

Hi Colin
if youve not done it yet.
no need to remove the A/C rad or to degas the system just unbolt the compressor from the engine and move it to one side theres enough play in the pipes as theres a flexi rubber type not metal same with the power steering pump,just remove the main engine cooling rad so it dont get damaged when lifting the engine out

 

C

Colin from Hull

Active Member

• May 18, 2011

• #9

Hi, I havent remove the engine yet, i have bought a 3/8th breaker bar hoping theres enough room to remove the torque converter bolts. I also had to make a longer arm for my Engine Lift. i will be trying tomorrow. I have put a photo showing the position of the awkward torque converter bolts,its a bit dark.

 

Attachments

• 
  engine 003.jpg

  17.3 KB · Views: 158