Anyone got any advice on the rear subframe mount repair.

Hoping to attempt this overthrow weekend and any tips would be more than welcome

Thanks

Chris

hi there

did mine myself the other week ,when i saw the subframe crack i thought my car was fu.ked

but to be honest it was a very easy repair and did not take that long to do

heres a link to mine

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/help-urgently-needed-244383-7.html

hope it helps ,there quite a few pics of how i repaired mine

griff

Thanks griff

Bit confused now.

From under the car I can get a screwdriver driver between subframe and body and there is some play.

I've removed grommet, and cut me a hole to inspect the nut etc.

Everything in there is clean as a whistle with no signs of any cracks etc so what am I actually repairing???

Chris

on mine the nut that is ment to be welded to the inside of the frame (captive nut) had come loose because the metal had rusted so nut was turning so could not tighten the bolt

have you tried to tighten the bolt ? as you can see from mine i had to weld a plate in as was rusty/corroded to hell

they say that normaly its only ever the front drivers side thats loose

mate if needs be if you pm me your landline phone number (i live in germany so cant ring mobile numbers as costs to much lol)i can ring you if thats any help as im not the best at explaining things in text lol

Thanks for your help griff...... All sorted now..... No more knocking!!!

Looked at your pics which were a huge help ad did as you did. My captive nut was fine and the bolt came out easily. Once I had cut my access hole I could see that everything in there looked in really good condition. Took out the bolt cleaned it up a little and put it back in. Even with the bolt as tight as I could get it there was still a lot of movement in the subframe. I jacked up the body and loosened the other subframe bolts to lower the subframe a little. It them became obvious that in my case the cracks were in the underside part of the chassis rail not the inner side where the captive nut is. Basically I was tightening the subframe against the face of the bolt tube which because if corrosion and cracks ws now proud of the chassis rail..... If that makes sense.

Anyway..... Cut mymyself a suitably sized piece of 3mm plate and made a repair piece. Slotted it in, tightened up the subframe bolts and hey presto.... No more movement or knocking. Then welded the plate in place. Thinking about it, just wondering if it is corrosion on the bottom of the rail allows the movement of the subframe which then causes the cracks in the top of the rail??? Just a thought

Thanks again griff

Chris

cool glad you got it all sorted ,like i said when i saw mine i thought at first my car would be going to the scap yard ,but in end turned out to be a very easy fix and the dif now on the handling is much much better

Glad it's all sorted. I thought it seemed a bigger job then it was when I did it

Thanks for all the help chaps......