if anyone we both know was heading this way between now and Thursday perhaps that person could bring it with them eh
:lalala:if anyone we both know was heading this way between now and Thursday perhaps that person could bring it with them eh
:lalala:
I am sure there are guys close to you with the spanner and torque wrench - i think DV volunteered yesterday.
i int sure wot yu are doing to necessitate removing the air bag either - but if yu ask - i am sure loads of folks on here do.
i int sure wot yu are doing to necessitate removing the air bag either - but if yu ask - i am sure loads of folks on here do.
Trewey
Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
The correct way to adjust wheel bearings and tighten hub nuts (taken from the Official Land Rover workshop manual for Disco 1) -
Tighten the inner hub nut to 65Nm and spin the hub to settle the bearings.
Back off the inner hub nut 1/2 a turn and re-tighten to 4Nm.
Fit the tab washer.
Fit the outer hub nut and tighten to 65Nm, without allowing the inner nut to move.
Bend the tab washer over both nuts.
Simple.
I've got a 52mm 3/4" drive socket, which I use with a combination of reducers and my 1/2" and 1/4" drive torque wrenches to do the above.
Tighten the inner hub nut to 65Nm and spin the hub to settle the bearings.
Back off the inner hub nut 1/2 a turn and re-tighten to 4Nm.
Fit the tab washer.
Fit the outer hub nut and tighten to 65Nm, without allowing the inner nut to move.
Bend the tab washer over both nuts.
Simple.
I've got a 52mm 3/4" drive socket, which I use with a combination of reducers and my 1/2" and 1/4" drive torque wrenches to do the above.
hang on a mo - are yu doing front or rear - coz i thort yu was doing front not rear as stated on this fred???
and my landy book is diff for the front hub nuts....
and my landy book is diff for the front hub nuts....
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
dont fink i would use the nuts as a press me self even if LR say so
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Using the hub nut spanner means you can't measure the torque. A common method used to great effect is do the inner hub nut up tight, rotating the hub as you go to seat the bearing. Once tight back off "1 flat" fit lock tab washer then the outer hub nut, do that up firmly, feel for play, hopefully there won't be any noticeable movement - bend lock tab washer - job done. Give your brake pedal a couple of presses just to make sure the caliper pistons have not been pushed too far back and that the pedal feels right before driving. Re-fit drive flange/halfshaft, seal with new gasket or RTV silicone, apply threadlock to drive flange bolts and torque up to correct setting then put the wheel back on.
Do make sure that your bearings etc are clean before you put them in and that they are appropriately packed with grease, premature failure is not unknown because the bearings have been put in dry.
However, it is always worth checking the bearings for play every once and adjusting as necessary, especially if you are running wider than standard wheels/tyres or if you have been doing a lot of wading.
If you want to torque the bearings as per spec you're gonna need a BIG socket to fit yer torque wrench.
Hope that helps ya.
Do make sure that your bearings etc are clean before you put them in and that they are appropriately packed with grease, premature failure is not unknown because the bearings have been put in dry.
However, it is always worth checking the bearings for play every once and adjusting as necessary, especially if you are running wider than standard wheels/tyres or if you have been doing a lot of wading.
If you want to torque the bearings as per spec you're gonna need a BIG socket to fit yer torque wrench.
Hope that helps ya.
