Station House

Well-Known Member
Quick question please

From the parts diagrams think there are 2 bearings - inner and outer?

If I'm replacing one - is it false economy not to replace both?

Instinct says yes, but think Trewey's excellent guide only replaced the outer

Also if replacing bearings, will the current shims be wrong, or is it (hopefully) within an acceptable tolerance?

Sorry if being daft - dismantling diffs is new to me!
 
the front pinion bearing is the easy one
the other 3 bearings will require pulling off
strip and inspect the diff bearings I had 3 ropey ones upon inspection so changed all 4
you shouldn't need to alter the shimming when replacing just the bearings
 
false economy imo if you get the 2 bearings 539706 and 539707 timken only shimming will stay the same for pinion height and preload i posted on thread how to set diff carrier bearings but would be happy to tell you ,dont use punch to put bearings in it damages them not visibly but can be felt use old race as dolly if nothing else ,other than timken bearings will alter shimming
 
Cheers James

Depending on what I find when I take apart, might buy a reconditioned diff - will be in touch for advice re which one if that's the case!

Can rear bearing be drifted out the same as front - couldn't see why not, but Prius mentioned needing a puller?

Rear diff has been noisy on overrun fsince I had it - 2 fluid changes helped - now on overrun and braking making a metallic noise that sounds like a metal rod in a bicycle spokes!

Think this might be the input flange moving around when under less load, buy equally fear could be something worse inside diff - will be looking for metal shavings!

Anything else your experience says I should be looking for to diagnose? Cheers

Ps - when the diff refers to the number of splines - which splines does it refer to? Flange or half shaft?
 
half shaft /diff gears bearings normally but later pinions have fine splines for flange with earlier been 4 punch out of housing ,carrier brgs can be too with good cold chisel to start but often easier to pull carrier bearings off ,noise could be mudshield catching housing if much play in bearing
 
if you are going to use chisels and hammers to remove the bearings from the crown wheel carrier and pinion shaft wear some goggles
I am fortunate to have hydraulic pullers and presses
chisels and hammers can cause more damage than enough
to remove the pinion large bearing from the shaft cut the cage off
grind the bearing boss flat ,be careful not to grind all the way through rest the bearing race on something solid and give it a clout where you have ground it thin, this will split the bearing race and it will then just tap off
same technique for the crown wheel bearings
a full set of timken bearings and the front seal are around £100
 
Last edited:

Similar threads