going to rebuild my front brake calipers next weekend as the Pistons are sticking

but after just popping down the road the rear right drum is now hot to touch

feel that something is going on , very strange that I've now got these problems since it having an mot

think that now the weekend will be spent stripping both fronts and rears down to establish what's going on

wondering if maybe there's crap in the abs unit and not allowing the fluid to release back into the abs unit when I take my foot off the brake ????

think that maybe taking the brake lines off all four wheels and at the abs unit and get an air pump and blow through them to ensure there clear

I did replace all the brake fluid last year in the whole system

just seems strange that since the mot these problems have appeared , they were fine before that , there was no overheating at all

if I do the brake lines first then test to see if the handbrake cable is sticking,

then the brake show handbrake release arms arnt jamming up

just seems so strange

wonder if there is a filter inside the abs unit

I did release the air bleed nipples when I pushed back the Pistons

i know they have a four wheel drive rolling road and hope to god they haven't put it on a 2 wheel rolling road, but that would bugger up my vcu

thrown me a bit but maybe it's just me overthinking it and is a sheer fluke this has all come to light in one go

Can't help with the brake problem as I have a tratter but most places have a black box thingy they put on the car passenger seat and waz down the street before hitting the brakes to test your them when you've got a 4 wheel drive, I watched the brave soul who MOT'd mine head for a brick wall last time in kwik-fits car park

Marmaduke said:

Can't help with the brake problem as I have a tratter but most places have a black box thingy they put on the car passenger seat and waz down the street before hitting the brakes to test your them when you've got a 4 wheel drive, I watched the brave soul who MOT'd mine head for a brick wall last time in kwik-fits car park

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cheers mate, the garage kindly picks my car up for the mot and drops it back off when finished

I know that if I stamp on my brakes it really does stop well, but since it's come back from the mot the brakes are crap

think it will just be the case of a total strip down and give them a good overhaul

will be replacing the front seals and Pistons with oem parts , know it's more expensive but just for piece of mind ,

I bet it's the dam brake shoe handbrake levers that are sticking on , can't stand the auto adjusters as when I take the drum off takes me ages to release the auto shoe adjusters

Probably sticking rear linkage inside the drum, tester will have pulled far harder on the handbrake than you do for stationery parking

freelance said:

Probably sticking rear linkage inside the drum, tester will have pulled far harder on the handbrake than you do for stationery parking

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I think ur right with ref to the handbrake

got to remember how to adjust the dam auto adjusters, drum on or off

if I remember rightly I need to back the shoes off, then click them out with the brake pedal gently with the drum off until the drum just fits ,


terrible as I will have to dig out my haynes manual, lol

plus don't always use the handbrake as i use park

Therein is your problem, linkage gets stiff through lack of use

freelance said:

Therein is your problem, linkage gets stiff through lack of use

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imagine ur spot on mate , daft question do u think coppaslip may be the best thing on the these handbrake linkages

also my tin of this red rubber grease turned up , for the rebuilding of my calipers

gstuart said:

I think ur right with ref to the handbrake

got to remember how to adjust the dam auto adjusters, drum on or off

if I remember rightly I need to back the shoes off, then click them out with the brake pedal gently with the drum off until the drum just fits ,


terrible as I will have to dig out my haynes manual, lol

plus don't always use the handbrake as i use park

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Just typed out a reply but the stupid iPad crashed and wouldn't submit it. I took screenshots so as not to lose any text.

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guineafowl21 said:

3:

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cheers for that mate,

know what u mean with regards to the ipad as mine sometimes does that and so annoying


my son james is coming round next Sunday and we are going to strip the entire brakes down, front and back

new seals and Pistons should be due in tues or weds, got new wire brushes , pick set and caliper wind in tools,

already got a tin of coppaslip , just need to get some emery paper for the backplate points and the shoes may need the glazing taking off, they have only done around 2000 miles , so should be fine

thks again, not looking forward but know it must be done

How to adjust the handbrake.
Rebuild back brakes. Do NOT put the handbrake on.
Start engine.
Press brake pedal repeatedly until you lose the will to live.
You will hear a click from the adjuster under the handbrake leaver
When it stops clicking, its adjusted.
Apply handbrake
Mike

gstuart said:

cheers for that mate,

know what u mean with regards to the ipad as mine sometimes does that and so annoying


my son james is coming round next Sunday and we are going to strip the entire brakes down, front and back

new seals and Pistons should be due in tues or weds, got new wire brushes , pick set and caliper wind in tools,

already got a tin of coppaslip , just need to get some emery paper for the backplate points and the shoes may need the glazing taking off, they have only done around 2000 miles , so should be fine

thks again, not looking forward but know it must be done

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No probs - the reason I do it that way is to avoid having to disconnect any of the springs - much quicker to take the whole mech off.

Another tip: If you're opening up the brake system and don't want the open pipes dripping brake fluid all the time, just crack the first union and jam the brake pedal down with a piece of wood against the seat.