Vulch

New Member
I've just changed the rear shoes on my 1993 110 - noticed that the N/S cylinder looked a bit grubby and had probably been leaking at some point.

Questions:

Can I replace it without pulling the hub? Or will it not fit through the gap?

Can I replace the seals and refurb it without removing it? How do I know if I need to replace the whole unit?

TBH for the price of a new cylinder, it is hardly worth repairing the old one - I am just being lazy. And I don't have a hub nut socket. Which would cost more than the new cylinder.

Thoughts?

Vulch
 
I've just changed the rear shoes on my 1993 110 - noticed that the N/S cylinder looked a bit grubby and had probably been leaking at some point.

Questions:

Can I replace it without pulling the hub? Or will it not fit through the gap?

Can I replace the seals and refurb it without removing it? How do I know if I need to replace the whole unit?

TBH for the price of a new cylinder, it is hardly worth repairing the old one - I am just being lazy. And I don't have a hub nut socket. Which would cost more than the new cylinder.

Thoughts?

Vulch

Definitely replace, for the price and piece of mind if for nothing else

You'd find it easier to replace with the hub off, and for £11.99 i'd suggest it's a worth while investment:
SEALEY SX010 52MM IMPACT SOCKET 1/2" SQUARE DRIVE | eBay

Don't be tempted to get a hub nut spanner, they're useless!


Edit:

also take a look at your brake pipe going into the cylinder, as depending how good a condition it is, you may find it fused to the cylinder, requiring the pipe to be replaced too ;)
 
Last edited:
Fitting discs might be a bit more involved! But I do see your point.

It is more about the hassle and fiddling than the cost of a hub nut socket to be honest! Thanks for the tip about the brake pipe too - I will have a look! How far back up do I have to go to replace it?

Cheers,

Vulch
 
What do you mean is it more hassle?

there's a t piece on top of the diff, that you should be able to undo then just replace that piece of pipe. I got 5 meters of brake pipe or something like that, some ends and a flaring kit and replaced it. The whole job (replacing cylinder, making new pipe, putting back together and bleeding) took me 2 hours or so max, really easy job.

If you're taking hub off, it'd be worth getting a locking washer (or whatever they're called) for between the two hub nuts, makes it easier than having to reshape the old one
 

Similar threads