classic kev
Well-Known Member
Mike, you're a nice enough guy but do be careful. It doesn't sound like you've got Death Wobble (do a search on that!) but if you get the swivel set up wrong you might. Trust me a fast moving RRC and death wobble is not nice.
You don't say if you have vibration through steering or if it is through brakes or if it is under acceleration/braking/cornering etc. It could be there is wear in the drive train somewhere. Is the harmonic damper in one piece? The change in tyres might have set up harmonic vibration at a frequency the car doesn't like - could be total rubbish but stranger things have happened.
As Classic Kev says, you have to set the Swivel up correctly...
Could it be the tyres you have are just tracking the ruts in the road (even if you can't see any ruts)...my current P38 on 255/55R18's are really bad for it, especially at one roundabout near work....downright dangerous under braking entering it....
Could it be the tyres you have are just tracking the ruts in the road (even if you can't see any ruts)...my current P38 on 255/55R18's are really bad for it, especially at one roundabout near work....downright dangerous under braking entering it....
MikeV8SE
New Member
Hi guys, thanks for the comments. The wobble is mostly apparent when you hits bumps in the road - it sends a huge wobble right through the front end and the wobble last for several seconds after hitting the bump. It's almost as if you can feel both front wheels wobbling independtly through the steering wheel. It can also then try to veer off in one direction or another (neither one in particular).
The new tyres have made it worst, but then that is to be expected - they are 235/70 rather than 205/80, are a much more aggresive tread pattern and weigh a ton. The new steering damper has made no difference either way.
It doesn't wobble under braking and it actually brakes pretty straight and true, even during an emergency stop.
Whilst the ruts in the road are bad and I have no doubt it does track them (my daily driver does too!) it is more than that.
I was going to use one of those digital things you weigh luggage (lifting it on the handle) with as the spring balance, it should be pretty accurate.
I assume the harmonic damper is the discus-like object near the steering damper? In which case that is definitely OK as I took it off and put it back on again this weekend!
Thoughts appreciated!
The new tyres have made it worst, but then that is to be expected - they are 235/70 rather than 205/80, are a much more aggresive tread pattern and weigh a ton. The new steering damper has made no difference either way.
It doesn't wobble under braking and it actually brakes pretty straight and true, even during an emergency stop.
Whilst the ruts in the road are bad and I have no doubt it does track them (my daily driver does too!) it is more than that.
I was going to use one of those digital things you weigh luggage (lifting it on the handle) with as the spring balance, it should be pretty accurate.
I assume the harmonic damper is the discus-like object near the steering damper? In which case that is definitely OK as I took it off and put it back on again this weekend!
Thoughts appreciated!
classic kev
Well-Known Member
That sounds like death wobble!! Do the easy thing first, get a new steering damper (gas one is better). If that doesn't sort it, jack up front wheels and check for play in the swivel bearings. Might be a good idea to check out the condition of all the ball joints while you're about it too.
Last edited:
Bromsgrove Defender
Well-Known Member
Here's a thought ..... why not jack up front wheels and check for play in the swivel bearings first ?
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Here's a thought ..... why not jack up front wheels and check for play in the swivel bearings first ?
'coz damper is my favourite suspect (been there done that once or twice
)
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
if your doing swivel bearings dont try and undo bottom pin it doesnt need to come out and doesnt wear chances are you will snap bolts ,and swivel bearing pull is only 2-3 lbs
Bromsgrove Defender
Well-Known Member
'coz damper is my favourite suspect (been there done that once or twice
Thats a fair point Kev, but force of habit ( or tight git lol ) I always check what will cost me nothing but a little time first.
Bromsgrove Defender
Well-Known Member
Yup good call and back at ya cos it's the tyres I think.
You don't need to leave your disco on axle stands just change one wheel at a time
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Oops! Mind you I did that once and within a couple of weeks had to fit a stronger gas one. So I guess he needs to check the swivel bearings for play. On ABS Range Rovers preload is checked with a torque wrench; after 1991 preload should be 0.25mm - 0.30mm and the torque required to turn the swivel assembly should be 2.0 - 2.8Nm. On 1990 models figures are 0.18mm - 0.23mm and 5.1 - 7.3Nm. The difference is because the early ABS axle had a bush and thrust washer at the top but the later ones have a roller bearing.
Non-ABS axle should have a pull of 1.16kg - 1.46kg.
All figures from RR workshop manual.
I believe the settings are made BEFORE swivel seal,CV joint, stub axle and axle shaft are fitted; if I remember well, the pull required on my RRC with a fully built up swivel, brake disc etc was about 6kg after initial inertia.
Hope that helps.
Last edited:
MikeV8SE
New Member
Yep already done the steering damper, a nice new Monroe oil/gas filled one, no difference.
Tried swapping the tyres but Carl's are too big - the 235/85's rubbed on the front arches so couldn't drive it anywhere.
How do you check swivel bearings for play, then? When the front is jacked up there's no free movement in the wheel, although I thought that checked the wheel bearings, not the swivel ones...
Bit confused about swivel preload now too! Mine is a 1994 Classic on Air Suspension with ABS - so should the preload be set between 0.25-0.30mm and 2.0-2.8Nm turning force? Do I need to remove the axle and CV joints to take this measurement?!
Tried swapping the tyres but Carl's are too big - the 235/85's rubbed on the front arches so couldn't drive it anywhere.
How do you check swivel bearings for play, then? When the front is jacked up there's no free movement in the wheel, although I thought that checked the wheel bearings, not the swivel ones...
Bit confused about swivel preload now too! Mine is a 1994 Classic on Air Suspension with ABS - so should the preload be set between 0.25-0.30mm and 2.0-2.8Nm turning force? Do I need to remove the axle and CV joints to take this measurement?!
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
which is 2-3 lbs ft or 2-3 lbs pull on fishing scale in steering arm which is more doable than getting torque meter that covers 2nm,it works out the same as both run on bearings unlike defender that used rialko bush ,must be checked before fitting seal,which adds considerable to pull needed
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
theres no need to measure just use fishing scale (spring balance),there just needs to be no free play and a little preload more on new bearings than old as they have run in youve got to know how things work to understand manual
