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After a slow start, it sounds like my front prop shaft is about to **** itself.

I'm picking up a Tom Woods one tomorrow night.

Anything I should know, or any tips before I start? Looking in Rave it seems just a case of undoing the bolts either end and fitting in the replacement(?)

Thanks.
 
Ok thanks. 14mm should be ok if no 9/16? Do all the bolts get re-used?

Get a new set:

DA1123 - contains 4 bolts and nyloc nuts. Cheap as chips on ebay. You need 2 sets, £3.26 per set with free postage.

The nuts are difficult to get onto unless you have a 3/8" drive socket.

Bolts are 1-1/8" long 3/8" UNF.

Peter
 
Get a new set:

DA1123 - contains 4 bolts and nyloc nuts. Cheap as chips on ebay. You need 2 sets, £3.26 per set with free postage.

The nuts are difficult to get onto unless you have a 3/8" drive socket.

Bolts are 1-1/8" long 3/8" UNF.

Peter

2 sets if you are taking the output flange of to get the nuts out, that kit has 4 bolts and 8 nuts no real nead to go that far. I would buy one kit and leave the bolts in the output flange. ( to save time ha ha )
 
Ok great, thanks for the tips. I'll pick up a couple of sets of nuts & bolts before I start the job on Thursday.
 
Grease it up before you fit it, you'll find it easier.

There should be at least two grease nipples; one on the sliding joint and one on the front U/J. There might a be a pair of nipples on the double cardan joint too if you're lucky.

It might be a reasonable idea to change the grease nipple on the front u/j for a longer one, it'll make greasing it next time a whole lot easier.
 
It might be a reasonable idea to change the grease nipple on the front u/j for a longer one, it'll make greasing it next time a whole lot easier.

Agreed! I couldn't source one for mine locally, couldn't be bothered waiting for ebay, so took the angle grinder to the end of my grease gun ;) Works a treat...still! :jaw:
 
Ok all done including new nuts and bolts (but left the captive bolts in place). Doing the job without a hoist was a bit of pain in the arse but nothing too difficult for a noob such as myself.

Very pleased with the result - no more vibration or shudder, especially under load.

The puzzling thing is that I can't see anything obviously wrong with the old prop shaft. What should I be looking at or checking?

Here's some pics for comparison between the new one (Tom Wood) and the old one. To me, the new one looks a lot more heavy duty. Anyone recognise the old shaft? Is a Britpart?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1390477985.365072.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1390478010.316068.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1390478027.639582.jpg
 
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Greasing when out is better as the bearings aren't under load

What sort of load do you mean? Just the prop's own weight when it's at rest?

Assuming the Landy is jacked up (well at least one wheel per axle!), chocked ;), with the handbrake off, then the props will be under no torsional load.
 
What sort of load do you mean? Just the prop's own weight when it's at rest?

Assuming the Landy is jacked up (well at least one wheel per axle!), chocked ;), with the handbrake off, then the props will be under no torsional load.

You will find as the props are on the vehicle that there is a small load on the ujs so this can restrict the flow of the grease best way to do it is to rebuild shaft grease it refit then take it for a little run to warm the bearings then grease again to make sure they are good
 

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