THE BUDDAH

THE BUDDAH

New Member
Hello,

Some of you may have seen my posts regarding a sand blaster and compressor set up. Well from some of the feedback ive had on this site and another it seems that i wont be able to get much of a blast for my £££££.....

+ I would need to run from an extension lead.

So i have a question for those who know. How can i clean up the axles and remove rust from my land rover as quickly and efficiently as possible ?....

Thanks for any feedback.
 
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THE BUDDAH said:
Hello,

Some of you may have seen my posts regarding a sand blaster and compressor set up. Well from some of the feedback ive had on this site and another it seems that i wont be able to get much of a blast for my £££££.....

So i have a question for those who know. How can i clean up the axles and remove rust from my land rover as quickly and efficiently as possible ?....

Thanks for any feedback.
Click to expand...

Sell it:D
 
Yep as above but you won't get in all the knooks and crannys

It will cost you more in disks than getting it blasted .
Remove from car empty oil use rope around the prop seals cover with duck tape 3 layers take to the blasters around £30-50
Simples;)

When I say prop I mean diff seals ect :p duct tape 3 layers breather
And half shaft ends in other words seal it up and off you go if you don't seal it .
Unlike my firm they will probably blast it and fill it with crap.

Use your initiative;)
 
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these are good on a grinder

Tapered-Wire-Brush-6421320.jpg
 
And how much are they a pop for decent ones lets say a£5 you think one will last the whole axel ;) the first one is lethal on a grinder I use em at work for rubberised underseal removal,by the box full .

Blasting and rubber don't mix and, bloody wear googles .
 
Grit Valve said:
Think about it ! Metal air and water = rust,not good its for patios and alike
Click to expand...

Yup. But surely it's just the same as using a wire wheel then washing it down?

Just putting some alternatives out there for the OP.

Use that kit, Remove rust, Use a garden blower to remove water. Rust proof.

Wouldn't that give just as good a result?

I've only ever used mine on Patio's, But it is advertised for use on metalworks.
 
Igloo said:
Yup. But surely it's just the same as using a wire wheel then washing it down?

Just putting some alternatives out there for the OP.

Use that kit, Remove rust, Use a garden blower to remove water. Rust proof.

Wouldn't that give just as good a result?

I've only ever used mine on Patio's, But it is advertised for use on metalworks.
Click to expand...
i would blow it down :rolleyes:
 
If you are removing it then strip it down as much as you want, use wire wheel, cup brush, wire cones for drill, small chisel for the tight bits etc, blow it off with compressed air or similar and then use a rust convertor and a decent paint. At the moment my choice of rust convertor is Robex followed by Tetrosyl chassis paint. For extra protection you can use an epoxy primer but it will still chip and scratch and makes it more complicated to touch up so I just use rust convertor and chassis paint.

Basically all the different methods are personal preference and rely on the same principal of getting as much of the rust off as possible then protecting the fresh metal as best as possible. Some prefer to blast it, some don't have this available to them, some don't mind the labour intensive ways, some have no choice. Research what is available to you and what you'd feel happy doing. For me I don't mind working away at it with a wire wheel, but then I used to sand filler all day so it makes no odds.

Have a look at what's available to you and at what costs, but don't deliberate over it too much, the sooner you get it done and back on the vehicle the sooner you will be able to enjoy it.
 
Dan_Trials said:
If you are removing it then strip it down as much as you want, use wire wheel, cup brush, wire cones for drill, small chisel for the tight bits etc, blow it off with compressed air or similar and then use a rust convertor and a decent paint. At the moment my choice of rust convertor is Robex followed by Tetrosyl chassis paint. For extra protection you can use an epoxy primer but it will still chip and scratch and makes it more complicated to touch up so I just use rust convertor and chassis paint.

Basically all the different methods are personal preference and rely on the same principal of getting as much of the rust off as possible then protecting the fresh metal as best as possible. Some prefer to blast it, some don't have this available to them, some don't mind the labour intensive ways, some have no choice. Research what is available to you and what you'd feel happy doing. For me I don't mind working away at it with a wire wheel, but then I used to sand filler all day so it makes no odds.

Have a look at what's available to you and at what costs, but don't deliberate over it too much, the sooner you get it done and back on the vehicle the sooner you will be able to enjoy it.
Click to expand...

The best rust protector is zinc phosphate metal will not rust again unless touched with sweaty hands or water spilt on it and leaves the metal ready for painting ;)
 
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