Gazbo
Well-Known Member
No, meant as compliment, information supplied complete and accurate, not always available in these pages.Nope, 1965 I was in Tech myself.
Thanks for the compliment/sarcastic comment* (delete as appropriate)
No, meant as compliment, information supplied complete and accurate, not always available in these pages.Nope, 1965 I was in Tech myself.
Thanks for the compliment/sarcastic comment* (delete as appropriate)
One problem which might be encountered when trying to measure the remaining thickness of brake disks is the lip which can form on the edge of the disk. That can give rise to false readings.
An ordinary digital caliper, they used to be called a vernier gauge has the two parallel faces which come together fully along the length of the measuring jaws.
View attachment 113056
What is actually needed is a device such as a micrometer which is more suited to measuring between the two small faces with the raised "anvil" as it's known as the fixed face.
View attachment 113058
By using such a device, the problem of the edge lip can be overcome.
However there is a way that this problem can be overcome with two small metal blocks of indeterminate thickness. Since the digital devices can be "zeroed" at any point, the caliper can be zeroed with the two blocks in place between the jaws. The two blocks are then placed one each side of the disk and the thickness of the disk can then be measured accurately.
There are digital calipers designed specifically for brake disk measurement, but being "job specific", they tend to be a little more expensive, particularly if they aren't going to be used too often.
View attachment 113060
Getting a little more practical about the subject, the specs already given show an allowance for a 3 mm reduction in plate thickness due to wear in use, properly maintained brakes and in particular brake calipers would mean an allowance of 1.5 mm each side of the disk.how right u are, before i replaced the discs on my hippo i soon found out i couldn't measure it correctly , due to the lip on the discs
got some old round fridge magnets, put them on the disc , took the measurement , then subtracted the thickness of the magnets
Getting a little more practical about the subject, the specs already given show an allowance for a 3 mm reduction in plate thickness due to wear in use, properly maintained brakes and in particular brake calipers would mean an allowance of 1.5 mm each side of the disk.
What I'm trying to say here is that if you have an appreciable lip on the edge of a disk which can be easily felt with the finger, then it's probably time to start thinking about replacement disks.
Thinking about the way that the handbrake works on most Land Rovers, the brake drum and shoes on the rear prop shaft rather than on the wheels would tend to suggest that wear isn't going to be the greater problem, which in most cases can be adjusted out. The greater problem is more likely to be a seized system, either in the drum or the external operating mechanism, or in the case of the D3, I believe, a failure in the electrical system operating the brake.fingers crossed i won't have to replace the handbrake shoes, as they look pigs to do ,
Wish it was still the same set up but on the Disco 3 the Electronic Handbrake has shoes inside the rear discs and works on that via an actuator that seems to go wrong at the drop of a hatThinking about the way that the handbrake works on most Land Rovers, the brake drum and shoes on the rear prop shaft rather than on the wheels would tend to suggest that wear isn't going to be the greater problem, which in most cases can be adjusted out. The greater problem is more likely to be a seized system, either in the drum or the external operating mechanism, or in the case of the D3, I believe, a failure in the electrical system operating the brake.
At least on d 3 you have an option to use handrake( auto), on d 4 and others it's automatically applied when selecting park, even more electrickery to raise one's stress levels!
That was the "unofficial" advice from Lotus about the crap handbrake on the 60s Elan. It was so ridiculously bad that the advice was "Adjust it to work for the MoT and use the gears for the rest of the year".We tend not to use handbrake , just cross our fingers at mot time!!
Had drilled stainless discs on my BMW R1000's, it was there to help shed water off the disc surface. Problem then was that the discs wore in a ridged pattern, which is why later drill patterns had the holes in a spiral pattern.
As far as our D2's go, we buy standard OEM discs and Mintex pads, never had any issues and never really needed anything extra. I can lock the wheels and bring the ABS into play on a dry road, that's about as good as it gets.
Peter
Thinking about the way that the handbrake works on most Land Rovers, the brake drum and shoes on the rear prop shaft rather than on the wheels would tend to suggest that wear isn't going to be the greater problem, which in most cases can be adjusted out. The greater problem is more likely to be a seized system, either in the drum or the external operating mechanism, or in the case of the D3, I believe, a failure in the electrical system operating the brake.
We tend not to use handbrake , just cross our fingers at mot time!!
Mine isnt working, just the red warning flashing away.
Will sort it after the winter, I'm not lying under the bloody motor in this weather
That's where the anchor comes in!!tried mine when i was buying the landy to ensure it worked ok, not used it since, lol