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Steve Ashworth

Active Member

• Apr 22, 2011

• #1

My series 3 2.25 petrol is suffering from power loss.
Its happened since I refurbished carb (Weber)

It starts first time every time and will tick over all day long. On accelerating and particularly up hill it is very sluggish. Have tried adjusting carb but no better.

Any ideas...

Cheers

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Apr 22, 2011

• #2

float level

 

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Steve Ashworth

Active Member

• Apr 22, 2011

• #3

what do I need to do to the float level?

Cheers

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Apr 22, 2011

• #4

make sure its correct to high it will flood engine too low it will starve engine

 

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Steve Ashworth

Active Member

• Apr 22, 2011

• #5

It seems like it is being starved...I will try it a bit higher - do you know what it should be?

Cheers

 

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Steve Ashworth

Active Member

• Apr 23, 2011

• #6

Hi,
Anyone got any advice on how to adjust the carburettor float level on my Weber 34ICH, and what the setting should be. I'm struggling to find the info. I'd rasther do it right than trial and error if poss.

Cheers

 

The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member

LZIR Despatch Agent

• Apr 24, 2011

• #7

Weber ICH34 Overhaul

The float spacing is measured between the top of the float and the face of the carb top with the gasket installed. The minimum distance is 6.5mm and the max is 13mm

 

Last edited: Apr 24, 2011

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Steve Ashworth

Active Member

• Apr 26, 2011

• #8

Thanks, thats really helpful.

I will give it a try, I persume you just bend the float to get the required distance as you would an old ballcock?

Steve.

 

oxides

Well-Known Member

• Apr 27, 2011

• #9

You bend the tab which acts on the float needle.

 

ciderman

Active Member

• Apr 27, 2011

• #10

is your timing a bit retarded?

 

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Steve Ashworth

Active Member

• May 23, 2011

• #11

Adjusted the float level and it improved significantly but was not quite right; still lacked power at the top end.

This weekend it stopped running altogether - no spark but LT power to distributor was ok and points were sparking ok.

The problem was the rotor arm would not turn. The drive shaft in the distributor had ceased solid into the distributor...and I mean solid. The bit at the bottom of the distributor sheared clean off so when engine turned the dissy didn't. Luckily I managed to get the bits out.

Luckily I managed to pick up an old distributor off a local chap who has pretty much every part you could think of. Fitted the distributor and timed it "by ear" and it runs great on full power. Took it for a test run and it was much sharper and accelerated through to 50mph. Its a while since it did that.

I guess the distributor must have been failing /timing must have been a bit out as suggested. I will try time it properly with a strobe to get it spot on. Whats the best setting for running on standard lead free (with additive )

I have never known one to cease like this, neither had the chap where I got the replacement.

Cheers,
Steve

 

Last edited: May 23, 2011

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• May 23, 2011

• #12

if yoiu can get strobe set timing with it better than static timing

 

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Steve Ashworth

Active Member

• May 23, 2011

• #13

Thanks James, I edited last thread as it saved before I was finished.

Cheers

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• May 23, 2011

• #14

you dont need additive i run mine 10 years on unleaded will take a long time for exhaust seats to go ,then just get seats in exhaust valves fitted ,timing 4-6 degrees tickover

 

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Steve Ashworth

Active Member

• May 23, 2011

• #15

Thanks James,

In that case I'll save my money on the additive...