Datatek
Well-Known Member
I was able to remove an olive from the blue tube with care,
svenology
Member
I will give it another try after dinner, but mine look to have a t shape insert with an olive “like” around…
Guess i could try to burn the tube to get it out… as any sort of cutters or prying tools will definitely score, scratch or ruin the fitting
svenology
Member
I will give it another try after dinner, but mine look to have a t shape insert with an olive “like” around…
Guess i could try to burn the tube to get it out… as any sort of cutters or prying tools will definitely score, scratch or ruin the gitting
Are there any extra fittings in your existing compressor or valve block, that are not standard.
The T piece in the end is so the olive doesn’t collapse the pipe when tightened, it’s a little sleeve that goes in.
But that’s not standard if I remember correctly.
Suggest you stand back and have a cuppa while you look at all the bits you have. While drinking your cuppa take some pics and post them.
J
@svenology Upload pictures of both the old & new compressors showing the fittings. Then we can see what you have & advise.
svenology
Member
Success!!!
New compressor is finally in. Had to wait forever for parts from Amazon... can't seem to find at any car parts store.
I basically used a coupler for now between the hose from the EAS box that was part of the old compressor, to the hose of the new compressor that came without any sort of fittings that I could use to attach.
So now I can technically "quick disconnect" my compressor....
Not sure this will be the final solution... (any comments on if this is a solid enough solution) but my olives for doing a new compression fitting are still in delivery hell... half of italy is on vacation.
But I have all the other good stuff now.
I will also upload some pics after dinner of my old compressor and new compressor and the hoses as I found them....
After the install, new compressor ran... 1-2 minutes into it, vehicle raised... 5 minutes maybe for being at proper height.
Then kept on running a little longer.... stopped the first time.
Vehicle raised in less than 2 seconds to max/wading height. I have it locked there now for about 45 minutes.... no drop. No sounds.
I did find that even when just sitting there with the engine running the compressor cycles quite a bit.
So will be interesting to see how things develop. Maybe there is some sort of leak.
Does anyone know how much these compressors are supposed to run?
Like out of a minute of time for example? 20%, 50%, even more? Obviously depends on how much work the suspension is doing. But presumably the pressure switch for the tank controls the running and wants to keep pressure at a solid 150PSI I'd assume!?
Thanks again to all of you who have contributed with great advice and good ideas!!
Rover on!
New compressor is finally in. Had to wait forever for parts from Amazon... can't seem to find at any car parts store.
I basically used a coupler for now between the hose from the EAS box that was part of the old compressor, to the hose of the new compressor that came without any sort of fittings that I could use to attach.
So now I can technically "quick disconnect" my compressor....
Not sure this will be the final solution... (any comments on if this is a solid enough solution) but my olives for doing a new compression fitting are still in delivery hell... half of italy is on vacation.
But I have all the other good stuff now.
I will also upload some pics after dinner of my old compressor and new compressor and the hoses as I found them....
After the install, new compressor ran... 1-2 minutes into it, vehicle raised... 5 minutes maybe for being at proper height.
Then kept on running a little longer.... stopped the first time.
Vehicle raised in less than 2 seconds to max/wading height. I have it locked there now for about 45 minutes.... no drop. No sounds.
I did find that even when just sitting there with the engine running the compressor cycles quite a bit.
So will be interesting to see how things develop. Maybe there is some sort of leak.
Does anyone know how much these compressors are supposed to run?
Like out of a minute of time for example? 20%, 50%, even more? Obviously depends on how much work the suspension is doing. But presumably the pressure switch for the tank controls the running and wants to keep pressure at a solid 150PSI I'd assume!?
Thanks again to all of you who have contributed with great advice and good ideas!!
Rover on!
You could have the height sensor out of whack. Does it move up and at the front or rear. Like it's dancing?
svenology
Member
See below what I was dealing with.
#1 new compressor came with new air line, but the compressor side was completely different from the original Dunlop compressor. (my new one is from AEROSUS... looks identical to the dunlop... but also all dunlop OEM do sell exactly like that one... with a cut off end on the EAS box side....)
#2 it might be that my old air line was not original. either way, the connectors were not removable, so with my new compressor I was stuck at a dead end, as neither did I have any sort of ferules or olives to make a connection, nor could I reuse the old.
I ended up using a quick connect adapter to join the old and the new line for now. Seems to be working find and will be really easy to connect a new compressor to for all future.
#1 new compressor came with new air line, but the compressor side was completely different from the original Dunlop compressor. (my new one is from AEROSUS... looks identical to the dunlop... but also all dunlop OEM do sell exactly like that one... with a cut off end on the EAS box side....)
#2 it might be that my old air line was not original. either way, the connectors were not removable, so with my new compressor I was stuck at a dead end, as neither did I have any sort of ferules or olives to make a connection, nor could I reuse the old.
I ended up using a quick connect adapter to join the old and the new line for now. Seems to be working find and will be really easy to connect a new compressor to for all future.
svenology
Member
Nothing is dancing or was dancing... it acts exactly the way it did before the compressor failure.
In my eyes, EAS behaves perfectly. No dancing, no sagging, no weird states after power off.
Also, achieves any ride height immediately within seconds.
I had EAS issues before once on another P38a in the US.... so I have seen all the weird behaviors...
When I got this one 6 months ago, EAS was perfect and it has been flawless until 2 weeks ago when the compressor failed.
Now the compressor in there was rebuilt... it says that on some painters tape...
But was it because a failure of another EAS component???
... at the moment the only possible failure I can even imagine would a leak/problem in the air feeding to the storage tank.
Assuming the circuit is compressor -> tank -> EAS ports -> air bags
As the vehicle holds height for weeks, rises to any height immediately, no errors or issues.
Hoping it was just a bum compressor.... the truck has 200k miles... visual inspection of airbags so far shows no cracks.... the fact that the car doesn't sag on any corner would indicate to me that there are no leaks in airlines or bags....
Just felt the compressor was running quite a bit once installed... but then again I have no idea how much it should run....
and the whole system was empty.... so lots of air to refill....
Understood, I think my original pump was around 8 minutes to fill the tank from empty with a door open for no interruption ? (correct me if I'm wrong) 
..
Hopefully you've suffered just a tired pump
.. Hopefully you've suffered just a tired pump
If the doors & tailgate are all closed, and the car is low, then the compressor is feeding the tank and any airbags that need to rise.
To fill the tank only a door or tailgate needs to be open.
Your compressor failure two weeks ago could either be gradual aging & it eventually gave up, or it was feeding a leak, that either occured recently or has been there a while.
Now you have it working, definitely check the entire system for leaks, or you will be replacing the pump again !
To fill the tank only a door or tailgate needs to be open.
Your compressor failure two weeks ago could either be gradual aging & it eventually gave up, or it was feeding a leak, that either occured recently or has been there a while.
Now you have it working, definitely check the entire system for leaks, or you will be replacing the pump again !
svenology
Member
Thanks for the intel on the tank still being filled with a door open.... didn't know that. Makes sense though...
I will keep observing.First test drive yesterday went fine.
This morning, after parked on level surface last night, the truck still is at same height and leveled on all wheels as it was last night.
svenology
Member
Another quick update!
Everything seems to be working fine.
I get into the car in the morning, immediately at ride level, if there are even any adjustments needed.
Depending on where I park and if I still unload stuff, the EAS adjusts the truck to perfect level.
No visible lean or sag on any corners.
I have 1.5km of heavily washboarded, big pot holes and very curvy dirt road before hitting the paved road. Which also has lots of dips for drainage, many hairpin turns and is probably 12-15% grade, so lots of heavy breaking.
In other words the truck pitches and rolls A LOT on this track. That's why I wanted a P38 again. Pure comfort... you can drive this 20-50km...
In a regular car, you hit your head on the A and B columns and know yourself out if you are not lucky...
Once I am in the valley at the bottom of the hill. Road conditions can be called normal.
Did some testing... driving A to B in the valley. Arrive at B... EAS box "normal temp" (engine ambient), compressor not running. Door open or closed doesn't seem to matter.... reservoir appear to be full.
Shut off the car, close the door, maybe a couple clicks depending on where/how the car is parked.
Driving up my hill finishing on the 1.5km dirt road...
Sometimes the compressor even still runs for closet a minute... AND I can tell by the heat from the EAS box that the compressor has been running a lot, i.e. working hard! (probably compressor would almost be too hot to touch) I also always notice that the car lowers ever so slightly to normal ride height after shutting it off. Meaning it was slightly higher than normal. (I have a 30 degree approach coming downhill onto my flat driveway around a 90 degree turn, so that could be the cause. I notice when I open or shut my gate that the suspension is quite high on one side and I have an extra 10cm to climb down, because of the odd angle of the car in the turn and up/down hill. )
How much air does the EAS use if you are driving at good speed off road? Will it try to compensate for height sensor changes that fast. I.e. I drive through a pot hole or a sharp turn and the car sways with an easy 2 inch suspension travel and it will try to make up for that? Try to keep solid ground contact for the wheels at all time, would make sense... but that would also indicate that during a drive like that the EAS constantly blows off and refills the bags in (depending on the axle angles) pretty significant amounts. And their is now air recovery, hence the compressor runs a lot during this type of maneuver.
I have never really taken my Range Rovers for true off roading for longer durations.... mostly unpaved roads... and this road here for daily use is about the most off road I have taken any vehicle besides a tractor. And often several times a day.
So you tell me... more rugged means more EAS work to do, i.e. more air needed? Does that assessment seem correct?
Asking all this, because I want to get to the bottom of my originally worn out compressor...
I have no problem rebuilding compressors... if the issue is overuse on an intact system...
but if there is some other strange issue that can be resolved, then I'd obviously need to look into that.
But as the title of my post said... my perception is/was that I have a perfectly working EAS... and all seems to be running perfectly again...
If I was only driving on flat ground and normal roads... I'd have no reason for concern... minimal compressor use clearly.
But off road... this seems a different story...
Everything seems to be working fine.
I get into the car in the morning, immediately at ride level, if there are even any adjustments needed.
Depending on where I park and if I still unload stuff, the EAS adjusts the truck to perfect level.
No visible lean or sag on any corners.
I have 1.5km of heavily washboarded, big pot holes and very curvy dirt road before hitting the paved road. Which also has lots of dips for drainage, many hairpin turns and is probably 12-15% grade, so lots of heavy breaking.
In other words the truck pitches and rolls A LOT on this track. That's why I wanted a P38 again. Pure comfort... you can drive this 20-50km...
In a regular car, you hit your head on the A and B columns and know yourself out if you are not lucky...
Once I am in the valley at the bottom of the hill. Road conditions can be called normal.
Did some testing... driving A to B in the valley. Arrive at B... EAS box "normal temp" (engine ambient), compressor not running. Door open or closed doesn't seem to matter.... reservoir appear to be full.
Shut off the car, close the door, maybe a couple clicks depending on where/how the car is parked.
Driving up my hill finishing on the 1.5km dirt road...
Sometimes the compressor even still runs for closet a minute... AND I can tell by the heat from the EAS box that the compressor has been running a lot, i.e. working hard! (probably compressor would almost be too hot to touch) I also always notice that the car lowers ever so slightly to normal ride height after shutting it off. Meaning it was slightly higher than normal. (I have a 30 degree approach coming downhill onto my flat driveway around a 90 degree turn, so that could be the cause. I notice when I open or shut my gate that the suspension is quite high on one side and I have an extra 10cm to climb down, because of the odd angle of the car in the turn and up/down hill. )
How much air does the EAS use if you are driving at good speed off road? Will it try to compensate for height sensor changes that fast. I.e. I drive through a pot hole or a sharp turn and the car sways with an easy 2 inch suspension travel and it will try to make up for that? Try to keep solid ground contact for the wheels at all time, would make sense... but that would also indicate that during a drive like that the EAS constantly blows off and refills the bags in (depending on the axle angles) pretty significant amounts. And their is now air recovery, hence the compressor runs a lot during this type of maneuver.
I have never really taken my Range Rovers for true off roading for longer durations.... mostly unpaved roads... and this road here for daily use is about the most off road I have taken any vehicle besides a tractor. And often several times a day.
So you tell me... more rugged means more EAS work to do, i.e. more air needed? Does that assessment seem correct?
Asking all this, because I want to get to the bottom of my originally worn out compressor...
I have no problem rebuilding compressors... if the issue is overuse on an intact system...
but if there is some other strange issue that can be resolved, then I'd obviously need to look into that.
But as the title of my post said... my perception is/was that I have a perfectly working EAS... and all seems to be running perfectly again...
If I was only driving on flat ground and normal roads... I'd have no reason for concern... minimal compressor use clearly.
But off road... this seems a different story...
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I do not think that the terrain should affect things that much, the EAS does not respond to short transient changes on any corner only to a change that is sustained, for how long I do not know. I think you need to check the function of the height sensors, on a meter, they should change resistance smoothly throughout their travel with no glitches.
svenology
Member
finally getting my EAS Unlock cable end of the month... then I will have a look.
Again, at this point I can only go by observation and it would seem a height sensor with bad readings would cause all kinds of odd behavior... which I can't say any of that is happening. The EAS behaves exemplary.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Depends on the problem, a small area of worn track can cause unnecessary height adjustments leading to the compressor running when not needed.
svenology
Member
okay. that makes sense.
on another note...
I don't have the calibration blocks (yet!) but it seems that maybe a previous owner "lifted" the truck a bit by recalibrating slightly higher. Saying this because visually the truck looks higher than I remember my old one... and also on and off-road, the suspension feels more stiff. Even bouncy... but that could be worn shocks...
Would an increased standard ride height cause more air compressor use?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Increased height should not affect air use, except perhaps if the height is near the edge of the ECU default settings which might cause problems
Blocks are not necessary to calibrate the suspension, a marked up measuring stick is quicker and easier.
I run both mine locked at motorway height, saves the compressor a lot of work with the speed related height changes.
There is a chart floating around on the net drawn up by a member here to show measurement so you could check with a tape measure, I dont have it but its on here.
Even with the extra height it only needs the little extra air if its at access to get it there but from then it should make no difference in air consumption while running.
J
Even with the extra height it only needs the little extra air if its at access to get it there but from then it should make no difference in air consumption while running.
J
