Landyjd

Landyjd

Active Member
Have got all the materials for doing my swivel housing seals and am planning to do it this weekend.

Question: I am wondering what the paper seals (like the axle-end gasket) need to be coated in before fitting.

Do they alll need loctite? I found these instructions in the manual:

Fit swivel pin bearing housing to axle

44. Coat the swivel pin bearing housing to axle casing
bolts with Loctite 270.
45. Coat both sides of a joint washer and place in
position on the swivel pin bearing housing to axle
mating face.

I want to double-check that this means to use loctite on these washers, and not oil.

thanks
 
Landyjd said:
Have got all the materials for doing my swivel housing seals and am planning to do it this weekend.

Question: I am wondering what the paper seals (like the axle-end gasket) need to be coated in before fitting.

Do they alll need loctite? I found these instructions in the manual:

Fit swivel pin bearing housing to axle

44. Coat the swivel pin bearing housing to axle casing
bolts with Loctite 270.
45. Coat both sides of a joint washer and place in
position on the swivel pin bearing housing to axle
mating face.

I want to double-check that this means to use loctite on these washers, and not oil.

thanks
Click to expand...
you can use hylomar gasket sealer but straight rtv siliconec sealant and no gasket is perfect
 
That quote I put in is from the Land Rover manual.

It sounds as though you are meant to coat something with loctite 270. (I believe that Loctite 270 is stronger than normal loctite.)

I have noticed that on how-to threads people seem to simply put the paper gaskets in and do not mention any loctite on the gaskets themselves, only on the bolts. Does this seem like a good way to go? (I am in my garage in the middle of the job at the moment:D)
 
Landyjd said:
That quote I put in is from the Land Rover manual.

It sounds as though you are meant to coat something with loctite 270. (I believe that Loctite 270 is stronger than normal loctite.)

I have noticed that on how-to threads people seem to simply put the paper gaskets in and do not mention any loctite on the gaskets themselves, only on the bolts. Does this seem like a good way to go? (I am in my garage in the middle of the job at the moment:D)
Click to expand...
just use the stuff in my post above ,only bolts need loctite or any other stud lock
 
yep only the bolts need loctite, use hylomar on the paper seal to make certain of a good seal, can get away without if mounting faces are good or a smear of grease to help seat...

did mine with paper gasket and hylomar n loctited the socket caps in...

8621857941_1a6c1c2a83_z.jpg


cheers steve
 
Ebbadger, is that a standard swivel kit/bolts or uprated? Looks a bit more robust than the usual type.
 
Mark L said:
Ebbadger, is that a standard swivel kit/bolts or uprated? Looks a bit more robust than the usual type.
Click to expand...

ive rebuilt from the ground up and upgraded all the 8.8 to 12.9 high tensile, about 50% stronger, you will get a lot who dont like socket caps as they 'round off' .... the ones that round off are when folks use the stainless or mild ones, you will not round off a 12.9 grade m8, 10 or 12, the flats are huge and i have spiralled 2 allen keys tightening up..... bolts are perfect but need better quality allen keys lol

Hubs

8621858293_737e7153a5_z.jpg


Swivel Pins

8621858455_623e1943d1_z.jpg


Trailing Arms

8611046734_83584a81f8_z.jpg


Diff Cover

8609942273_987503e9b3_z.jpg


Drive flanges..

8611039934_0eb6a2de61_z.jpg




cheers steve
 
Last edited:
axles bolts are 10.9 or 12.9 as std but its not necessarily an upgrade to put in higher tensile bolts in all uses,higher tensile bolts snap easier ,i have proper allen keys and the struggle at times
 
jamesmartin said:
axles bolts are 10.9 or 12.9 as std but its not necessarily an upgrade to put in higher tensile bolts in all uses,higher tensile bolts snap easier ,i have proper allen keys and the struggle at times
Click to expand...

all the original bolts that came out were marked 8.8 even the strange star headed ones holding the swivel on.... although this is an early 110 so perhaps they have upgraded nowadays?? , i've stripped it to its component parts and not come across anything above 8.8 that was marked...

to be honest every bit of data i've found on numerous engineering sites does refer to high tensile snapping but still at a point where an 8.8 would have already deformed or failed

however i have also seen a few horror stories about sub standard imported stuff marked 12.9 bought off a well known auction site... hence i buy all mine from the backstreet engineering company i trust in feltham.... oddly enough he is cheaper as well and happy to dig through box after box getting all the odds n sods i need :)

i shall happily report back any probs though... and i have put a blob of silicon in each cap to keep the crap out....

cheers steve
 
Last edited:
shear bolts used to protect rotating machinery are high tensile for a reason ,drive member bolts are 109.9 as std ,and chrome ball bolts are 12.9
 
Cheers, Steve.

I'm in the process of doing a full-on ground up rebuild of both of my axles, hence the question.
Hoping to get the axles back from my mate this week who will be etch priming and gloss blacking them inc flame red HD diff pans. :)
 
Mark L said:
Cheers, Steve.

I'm in the process of doing a full-on ground up rebuild of both of my axles, hence the question.
Hoping to get the axles back from my mate this week who will be etch priming and gloss blacking them inc flame red HD diff pans. :)
Click to expand...

lol.. it looks like its gonna be the season for lairy diff pans lol

dont forget the pics...

cheers steve
 
I still use paper gaskets and always give them a thin smear of grease before they go on.

This is good for a number of reasons, the first being that as the paper absorbs the grease it swells and seals the joint, secondly, if you have to dismantle at some future date, you do not have to spend hours scraping off the congealed 'instant gasket goo' from the surrounding areas, and thirdly, you do not get overspill from paper gaskets dropping bits into the oil or grease containment area.

As far as I'm concerned, only the idle and the inexperienced use the goo!
 
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