P

polsta

Active Member
Hi guys, got a 1996 diesel manual p38, had a nightmare week with it and a new clutch put in, finaly got it all back on the road and it drives ok

but ,sometimes,not every time,-when on idle it seems a bit lower than it was, and some vibration and knocking, a slight push on the throttle and pick up the idle slightly and it goes, and also i noticed when hand break is on in isle it does it, particularly if the hand break is actualy stopping the car from rolling

other than that its driving ok and clutch feels good

really,really, didnt need this

any ideas ? and is it safe to drive it like this or should that be avoided ?

thank you
 
oh please no :(

right here the story - could of done without the flywheel, but- i gave the mechanic my mate, the money for both the flywheel and clutch, he said its best to buy both and have it there in casse you need it, if not wel take it back id also read on here people have done it without replacing flywheel its not been neeeded - they did not have the flywheel in stock and it was a friday , said have to order it on monday , he had to do it last weekend, so he said well nothing we can do just gotta see what it all looks like

took it all apart, said the flywheel is ok and seems decent, which i was pleased to hear, im, like most people, dont want to throw away £500 replacing something thats ok and not particularly needed

ive had a google and the "flexi plate" seems to be a thing that crops up with this exact problem ?

but ....could there be a chance that something just hasnt been done up properly or worked loose after the initial 1st couple of drives ? ..as it did not do it straight away ? , and a very slight increase of the idle it doesnt do it...so can the idle not just be increased slightly ? the actual idle speed seems a bit lower than it was before aswell

i really didnt need this, feel a bit sick with it to be honest
 
Last edited:
dual mass fly wheel is part of the clutch as such it has the dampening springs not the clutch plate ,they should allways be done together ,wnether someone gets away for a while doesnt make not changing right
 
polsta said:
oh please no :(

right here the story - could of done without the flywheel, but- i gave the mechanic my mate, the money for both the flywheel and clutch, he said its best to buy both and have it there in casse you need it, if not wel take it back id also read on here people have done it without replacing flywheel its not been neeeded - they did not have the flywheel in stock and it was a friday , said have to order it on monday , he had to do it last weekend, so he said well nothing we can do just gotta see what it all looks like

took it all apart, said the flywheel is ok and seems decent, which i was pleased to hear, im, like most people, dont want to throw away £500 replacing something thats ok and not particularly needed

ive had a google and the "flexi plate" seems to be a thing that crops up with this exact problem ?

but ....could there be a chance that something just hasnt been done up properly or worked loose after the initial 1st couple of drives ? ..as it did not do it straight away ? , and a very slight increase of the idle it doesnt do it...so can the idle not just be increased slightly ? the actual idle speed seems a bit lower than it was before aswell

i really didnt need this, feel a bit sick with it to be honest
Click to expand...

There is no flex plate on a manual. Just the DMF, biggest waste of space ever introduced by the motor industry since time began.
 
oh ok no flexi plate

so what can i do ? is it not possible it could be something loose ?

im going to be sick if it is the dmf , can i not just get the idle increased slightly ?

thing is...2 mechanics have worked on it in te last week, neither mentioned the dmf needs doing as such as it was ok
 
are there any local in chichester-portsmouth area, people on here who could possibly look it over and help me out with a good knowlege of these, id be very grateful to hear
 
ok

so what would be the 1st steps to take and things to check ?

starter motor, prop shafts, cross member, were only things removed for the clutch change , is it possible it could be prob ? although me maked them etc and put them back as were
 
props wouldnt do it and only can be got wrong by splitting at the slide and refitting with yoles misaligned,cross member wouldnt,starter wouldnt do it ,it not in mesh unless its cranking
 
id start at flywheel,how did he check it ,how longs it be on ,is idle really lower than should be ,that would be different issue
 
you said eliminate other things 1st ? flywheel would mean removal of everything again and labour costs,again :(:(

car was fine, enevr had a tickover issue before just clutch on its way out, he removed the clutch and flywheel , said flywheel was fine after inspection

what should the tickover be ? it seems lower than it was, around 750 i think or slightly higher, now it seems around 500-600 and just lumps and vibrates a bit, but if slightly increased with the pedal it goes
 
Exactly same as my car's symptoms at present. Everything points to DMF. Will be getting it done prior to selling or drop the price accordingly. Although you can drive around it it is very unpleasant and spoils the car. Needs doing sooner rather than later
M
 
which is a classic poor clutch damping problem ,its just that yours is done by the fly wheel ,tick over unless been lowered by unclearing clutch while stood in gear at traffic lights etc will be other issue ,is box full of oil ,does ,is idle low in neutral
 
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