I just see the constant dribble of money into the big lemon outside kind of like buying a car on finance.

Dribble. More like a waterfall for me this year. My 4.6 p38 is my daily car. Just never sure which day its gonna work. Still when they work they are fantastic. Must be addicted to the highs and lows.
 
Jap every time if you have the cash. RR's are cheap because they are unreliable.

More and more uk farmers turning to the jap pick ups for their work.... Says something... Cant remember where i saw the survey NFU ir something. LRs that are now built for the posh spice market are now a rare sight to see doing what their ancestor models did before them.
 
More and more uk farmers turning to the jap pick ups for their work.... Says something... Cant remember where i saw the survey NFU ir something. LRs that are now built for the posh spice market are now a rare sight to see doing what their ancestor models did before them.


Ford, Mazda & Mitsubishi pick ups seem to be favorite with the farmers I know:) Even Subaru's no longer figure.
 
don't really have the cash for a landcruiser sadly, ironically the 91 shogun is running great so I guess maybe I'll have to save up and get a newer one in a while. P38 looks great but sounds like its not really reliable as a comfortable towing horse, and the Shogun does the job.
 
its a Range Rover, things WILL go wrong. 2K, as said, is not going to get you the later THOR engine, which is better. body panels are all aluminium apart from the tail gate lower. thats the most common area for rust.

My THOR 4.6 cost me £2K nearly two years ago.
 
Bought my p38 about 2 mths ago for £1500 with 96000 mls on the clock and full service history. 4.0se. I'm currently fitting a gas conversion myself. I've had a few minor problems but nothing too bad. I absolutely love it. A £40,000 car for £1500. Can't be bad
 
still have these p38's in my head as the jap stuff is significantly more expensive. How mechanically minded do you need to be to look after them. I'm ok with routine stuff like changing oils, filters, diff oils. On the disco had to change half shaft, stub axles and prop shafts. What is the most involved most owners get before handing it over to paid mechanics with a lift etc.
 
There a pain in the arse and constantly need money spending on them

But I still love mine, even after all the costs

Unless you can DIY your looking at a lot of expensive
 
It's the electronics that get some people
But you will need to get your own diagnostics device
That will be the most valuable bit if kit for your RR
 
what make of diagnostic device and are they expensive or just a usb device for your laptop with some software?

What kind of jobs have your (or others) had to do on yours?
 
you can get as involved as your limits allow. mine are great on mechanical. but on these, crap on electrics. but the guys here know a lot more about these cars than i do, so i will ask first and then have a go myself.

depends on your own personal limits and how far you want to go to learn.
 
what make of diagnostic device and are they expensive or just a usb device for your laptop with some software?

What kind of jobs have your (or others) had to do on yours?


for the P38, get a NANO EVO from blackbox solutions. at about £400 its the best bit of kit you can buy.

so far, i've done :-

all idler pullies on engine, inc adjuster and belt. (35 minutes)
track rod, drag limk and damper (up to 1 1/2 hours)
adjusted steering box (20 minutes)
and up for service and all oils next week.
 
what make of diagnostic device and are they expensive or just a usb device for your laptop with some software?

What kind of jobs have your (or others) had to do on yours?

If you are looking at an L322, you can go for Allcomms, cheap but mainly only reads and clears faults apart from the EAS. If you want proper diagnostics Black Box Solutions Faultmate MSV 2 is the way to go, but pricey:)

The P38 is easier and cheaper to fix, Nanocom EVO covers everything you are likely to need for diagnostics also from www.blackboxsolutions.com.
 
Last edited:
Ball joints are a common mot failure an a pain in the arse to get out and in but with some patience a grinder and a puller it can be done. Cooling systems need great attention on both diesel and petrol and involves viscous fan removal. Air suspension is great when it works but needs a little tech knowledge and software to do yourself. Viscous coupling might need replacing. Fuel pump recently started leaking on my diesel and ia about 400 for removal and refurb of seals only the outer ones can be done yourself.

If its any consolation i do wonder everytime i get in if it will start and i can get to work and when i get there i wonder if i can get home again! You tend to drive without a radio and the window down to listen for any new and unsual noises! Little yellow aa card in the glovebox gives some peace of mind!
 

Similar threads