tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
:frusty::frusty::decision:
dogsbody
Very senior member
There is no rule when it comes to accumulators. I've never heard of anyone getting 20 depressions to a pump run. If you're 'enjoying yourself' it's not unusual to have the pump run every two pedal presses.
Please, for the sake of your kid if for no other reason, take the advice given and sort your brakes out BEFORE THEY FAIL!!!!!!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
20 to 30 pedal presses is what is needed to totaly de-pressurise the system before working on it. 5 to 10 pedal presses is I would say pretty normal. Even if the pump where to fail the brakes will still work although you will have to press bloody hard. If the modulator discs fail you will have NO BRAKES
and it happens very suddenlyDimebag 666
New Member
I got 20/30 depressions from rangerover.net, under ABS section, it says quote
" The system does not use the normal vacuum-powered booster found on most vehicles, but rather an electrically powered high pressure hydraulic pump with an accumulator which stores enough energy for 20-30 brake applicatios. These are common (and expensive) failure items. See ABS diagnosis and repair page for diagnostic procedures."
So you can see how i was hung up on it as this site comes highly recommended on this forum.
I have ordered my repair kit today, in the meantime the rangey stays off the road!
Thanks again for all the great and usefull advice.
" The system does not use the normal vacuum-powered booster found on most vehicles, but rather an electrically powered high pressure hydraulic pump with an accumulator which stores enough energy for 20-30 brake applicatios. These are common (and expensive) failure items. See ABS diagnosis and repair page for diagnostic procedures."
So you can see how i was hung up on it as this site comes highly recommended on this forum.
I have ordered my repair kit today, in the meantime the rangey stays off the road!
Thanks again for all the great and usefull advice.
Dimebag 666
New Member
So.... not good news.
rather than opting for a repair kit I decided to purchase a used modulator. I had it fitted by a local 4x4 specialist which made no difference. I contacted the guy I got it from ( range rover breakers) who assured me the part was fine, however he did send me another.
That one has now been fitted, brakes bled according to land rover spec, still no difference. If anything its worse.
I now have a really spongey pedal, it has to be depressed over half way down before brakes apply. Still clicks, pedal still kicks back!!!!!!!!!!!!
Im at a loose end £435 worse off too, WTF do i do now?
rather than opting for a repair kit I decided to purchase a used modulator. I had it fitted by a local 4x4 specialist which made no difference. I contacted the guy I got it from ( range rover breakers) who assured me the part was fine, however he did send me another.
That one has now been fitted, brakes bled according to land rover spec, still no difference. If anything its worse.
I now have a really spongey pedal, it has to be depressed over half way down before brakes apply. Still clicks, pedal still kicks back!!!!!!!!!!!!
Im at a loose end
£435 worse off too, WTF do i do now?
zzr1200
Well-Known Member
Im at a loose end
The kit costs about 40 quid delivered.
I removed my modulator, fitted the kit and bled the brakes (with help from the other half), took about six/seven hours, brake pedal now nice and solid.
You must use new brake from un-opened container (4 Litres Dot4), parts cost about 60.00 quid in all, plus labour...
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rasheed
Well-Known Member
Dimebag, check everything physically first before diagnosing an internal problem. You're cash down already, now comes the bit about real RR ownership... every owner after possibly the one who drove it out of the showroom will get their hands dirty and learn more about the greasy bits than they ever dreamed they'd even want to know!
I'd start with physically inspecting everything that can be inspected. Start at the brakes at each corner. How are the pads and discs, how are the calipers and guide pins and little rubber bucket seals? Then check the brake hoses. Any kinks, pinches or tears? Next check the actual pedal action and linkages. Your soft pedal and clicks could come from any of these places. Once your confident about all those you can revert to the modulator and master cylinder. Perhaps the master cylinder has a torn seal. I'm assuming your accumulator is fine since its new. It would seem you now own a couple of spare modulators. Why not get one on your kitchen table and actually take it apart. Its not just the little discs to worry about, all those little aluminium tubes are pretty fiddly and what if your 4x4 specialist isn't a landy specialist? You might be able to find that your spare is in good condition, at least you'll have the peace of mind of having seen for yourself, and you can consider swapping it back paying extra care to the connections. Lastly, use fresh brake fluid, drain, fill, bleed bleed bleed bleed bleed....... and bleed.
Good luck!
I'd start with physically inspecting everything that can be inspected. Start at the brakes at each corner. How are the pads and discs, how are the calipers and guide pins and little rubber bucket seals? Then check the brake hoses. Any kinks, pinches or tears? Next check the actual pedal action and linkages. Your soft pedal and clicks could come from any of these places. Once your confident about all those you can revert to the modulator and master cylinder. Perhaps the master cylinder has a torn seal. I'm assuming your accumulator is fine since its new. It would seem you now own a couple of spare modulators. Why not get one on your kitchen table and actually take it apart. Its not just the little discs to worry about, all those little aluminium tubes are pretty fiddly and what if your 4x4 specialist isn't a landy specialist? You might be able to find that your spare is in good condition, at least you'll have the peace of mind of having seen for yourself, and you can consider swapping it back paying extra care to the connections. Lastly, use fresh brake fluid, drain, fill, bleed bleed bleed bleed bleed....... and bleed.
Good luck!
Just to add my twopeneth....
Never scrimp and save on two systems....Brakes and Steering....
As these two systems will save your life....the rest of the car can fall apart, breakdown or stop working, but Brakes and Steering will get you out of trouble.
Just my twopeneth....
Never scrimp and save on two systems....Brakes and Steering....
As these two systems will save your life....the rest of the car can fall apart, breakdown or stop working, but Brakes and Steering will get you out of trouble.
Just my twopeneth....
Dimebag 666
New Member
Cheers guys...
I started originally by checking my calipers and discs, hoses too. There all fine. I bled the system 3 times over which had no effect. Thats how I ended up posting on here.
This supposed "specialst" is a #>@?%$* cowboy. The brakes are worse, when i got the motor up to 50 mph it started shaking about and when i got home i noticed smoke coming from front o/s wheel arch and a terrible smell like a burning clutch or something. Thought maybe the pads were binding but the disc was not hot?????
People on this forum have assured me its the mod??? I think i'll just order the kit, fit it to my old mod and pray that it finaly puts an end to this headache!!
I love my Rangey but right now i wish it would just catch fire so I could claim
I started originally by checking my calipers and discs, hoses too. There all fine. I bled the system 3 times over which had no effect. Thats how I ended up posting on here.
This supposed "specialst" is a #>@?%$* cowboy. The brakes are worse, when i got the motor up to 50 mph it started shaking about and when i got home i noticed smoke coming from front o/s wheel arch and a terrible smell like a burning clutch or something. Thought maybe the pads were binding but the disc was not hot?????
People on this forum have assured me its the mod??? I think i'll just order the kit, fit it to my old mod and pray that it finaly puts an end to this headache!!
I love my Rangey but right now i wish it would just catch fire so I could claim
Dimebag 666
New Member
Just took it out for a spin to see how it felt today....
When you depress the pedal, either in motion or stationary, it lets off a slight hiss, then pumps up and kicks back... It never done that before.
Also, after a 3 mile spin the n/s front disc was seriously hot, had smoke comeing off of it, i could smell it inside with the windows up!!
When you depress the pedal, either in motion or stationary, it lets off a slight hiss, then pumps up and kicks back... It never done that before.
Also, after a 3 mile spin the n/s front disc was seriously hot, had smoke comeing off of it, i could smell it inside with the windows up!!
Does anyone have a current link to the repair kit? I searched through a few of these threads, but ended up at "page not found" every time.
i have a spare second hand modulator which I'll fit for now, but would rather repair my old one for the long term, as I know my own vehicle's history.
i have a spare second hand modulator which I'll fit for now, but would rather repair my old one for the long term, as I know my own vehicle's history.
StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
An old thread I know but surely a Thor has the later modulator which doesn't suffer this failure.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Someone told me the 99 onwards (Thor) had steel washers inside.
Sounds like brakes weren't bled according to RAVE and brakes were binding. Rasheed's advice was good.
