D

Diehard

New Member
Alright,

Whilst my issues with no oil pressure at cold continue to be investigated, I picked up the RR from the garage tonight (had some cold oil pressure tests done) and went to overtake and on kick-down, she rev'd to about 3k and juddered/went no where, whereas previously kick down had give me a bit of light relief amoungst all the issues.

So now I'm more depressed that I may have a gearbox fault :(

For reference, I tested both on petrol and LPG and both the same

Tried without MAF but she wouldn't start with it disconnected

Always had a strange idle, recently its been more erratic that usual

Just changed HT leads for third time to solve a ignition issue, but no change but never had an effect on kickdown

Battery is on its way out (I think) as today the battery light flicked on/off when ignition turned on, not sure if this would affect it?

Gearbox seems to change up and down normally without any issues and Low Range ia good too

I am thinking throttle positioning sensor?

Regards and thanks in advance.

Diehard ;)
 
Firstly you Can only disconnect the maf when its running it then runs on basic settings within the ecu.
Second sort out your battery/alternator and get the biggest battery amphour rating you can. Fix your battery woes and hopefully your gearbox issues will be solved as well.
 
Hi cheers for the advice, unfortuneately its got worse :(

Set off this morning and soon as she hits 2100-2200 she judders and wont go anywhere as if she is not getting enough fuel etc, had to leave her at home...
 
Get it running and disconnect the maf .The engine should idle and run sweetly as it discards a lot of information see if it drives better .
 
lowfat said:
Firstly you Can only disconnect the maf when its running it then runs on basic settings within the ecu.
Second sort out your battery/alternator and get the biggest battery amphour rating you can. Fix your battery woes and hopefully your gearbox issues will be solved as well.
Click to expand...
You might start with possible weak electrics, poor or low volts can cause weird symptoms.
 
Cheers guys, I'll have a go tomorrow with the MAF and hunt some batteries out.

Before I digging, anyone want to recommend a 'sensible' one (I.e. I'm nit winching or running 16 base boxes/amps :D)
 
West Slope Rover said:
You might start with possible weak electrics, poor or low volts can cause weird symptoms.
Click to expand...

See my first post......:doh

I got a 900 amphour battery from halfrauds I think it was the diesel p38 one.. but the bigger the better
 
Last edited:
I appreciate all the help guys :D I may see if I can get my bro in law to dig his halfrauds trade card out although praying its the maf and not a duff torque converter etc
 
Right, tried the MAF trick and although ever so slightly better, she still jolted and juddered over 2k and kick down is a no go.

Just for reference I tried her using 'D' '2' ans '3' and still holds off on the higher rev's :(

Battery check next...
 
You need to check the things common to both LPG and petrol... so that's the electric circuit i.e Batteries and earths, Ignition leads.plugs etc and worst of all mechanical.
 
Well funilly enough I changed the plug leads for the third time on Wednesday night (Lucas standard ones brand new) as the 8mm leads I put on her were crap and have sent them back. Ignition was better, but not great. Although Thursday went without hiccup.

I'm going to test battery/alternator in the next hour or two with a multimeter, dies anyone have any tests for the idle control valve/tps?
 
download yourself a copy of RAVE which is the workshop manual... no need to buy it there are loads for free download...... and remember its supposed to be fun:behindsofa:
 
Well I went out with some rags and insulating tape and cleaned various connectors, replaces insulating tape on wires which had split (most noteably the cable to the sensor in the airbox) and checked on all ht leads ensuring they were snug. Also removed a earth and gave it a dam good clean and found a connector to the passenger side to the engine (underneath), right at the back and looked as though it plugged into (what I would call) the gearbox bell housing, not far from knock sensor... this was FULL of oil so had to clean it about 4 times and with only what I had to hand (WD40).

And the tested... All back to normal!!! :D well chuffed, not sure what fix did it but hell its all good, just hoping it stays like that!

Thanks for all the help people, really appreciate it, hope my expirience helps others too.

Btw, tested battery 11.75v when not running and around 13v when idle, but if revved engine, would go to 13.99 and stop there, even when o let off... thinking this may be why my battery keeps leaking/boiling...
 
lowfat said:
alternator output should be near 14 volts ... get a new battery its not worth the agro
Click to expand...

Aye just looking them up now, but with the battery always leaking I worried my alternator was boiling it, hence thought best find out instead of potentially boiling a new battery :D
 
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