110Weasel

110Weasel

Member
So I've had the 300TDi 110 for about a week now, and aside from a few minor issues (still can't get the window up, still not sure what;s hiding under the amateur waxoyl, still a little nervous about the bodged bulkhead repair) it's started instantly every time and has good road manners.

Until yesterday when we had to get to a Christening (where my other half was godmother), and it decided not to start. 3 hours later I'd lost my temper and we'd missed the Christening, and it still won't start this morning. You can imagine how popular that has been.

Battery is good, fuses all fine, no obvious voltage reaching the starter though. No warning lights, no clicks, just nothing when you turn from ignition to start. Having read through the forum I decided the spider might be to blame and went to investigate it... Looking in the battery compartment, I found the attached - no obvious module but what looks like a cut off multi-plug.

It's a 97 300Tdi, with a small red LED in the centre of the instrument cluster - can I assume from this that the Spider has been removed? Or has it been butchered and left me with even more problems?!
 

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That does look like the spider immobiliser connector that is normally inside the metal box that you don't have. As it has been running previously in that condition it must have been bypassed (it immobilises the fuel cut off solenoid as well as the starter). From memory I think one of the relays behind the cover (in front of the gearstick) is the starter relay, may be worth pulling them one at a time to look for any obvious damage as the connectors (and relay) can occasionally fail. Hopefully you should be able to hear / feel one go click when you turn key to 'start' position.
 
Thanks Kwakerman - they all look ok but it must be worth getting a multimeter onto the input pin if I can work out which it is. Is absence of a spider enough to rule out the associated immobiliser relays do you think? Would they have to be completely bypassed if the control unit was removed?
 
The immobiliser relays were actually in the spider box which you don't have so are long gone. They were the cause of most alarm/immobiliser issues (dry joints on the relay pins). The relay for the starter has Black/Orange and Red/White going to the coil. If you get stuck PM me with an email address and I will send you a copy of the wiring diagram if you feel confident (it is a simple circuit).
 
Thanks Kwakerman, will PM shortly - and you might be onto something Flat...

I had a good rummage last night and have narrowed down the problem if not the solution. There is a wire that runs directly from battery to the ignition switch via a 15A fuse (rather inconveniently located behind the speedo) - I'm guessing it's part of the spider bypass as it isn't factory fit. Sure enough the fuse had popped so I replaced it and watched it pop again as soon as I turned the key. What could draw that much current, surely it's only a low amp switch to the relay? Could it be a faulty ignition switch?

Oh, and none of my lights work now even though fuses and relays are fine and there's 12v to the switch. Gah.
 
If the fuse only pops when you move the switch then there is a good chance that the switch is ok and you have a chafed cable somewhere after the switch. If the fuse pops in the 'ignition on' position it could be related to the stop solenoid wiring part of the bypass, if it pops when you go to the 'start' position then it may be related to the starter bypass. However it could also be a non bypass related fault if your lights are also playing up which is popping the fuse and giving you the no-start symptom.
 
Fuse only pops in the 'start' position - and the lights were fine until the Green Flag bloke had a poke aroundand got sparks out of it... I'm hoping that problem is the light switch as it seems odd that all side and headlight functions have disappeared from the switch in one go!

What's down stream of the ignition 'start'? Is it a direct line to the starter relay in the fuse box?

Just realised I didn't PM you after all that, I'll do it now. Cheers!
 
110Weasel said:
Fuse only pops in the 'start' position - and the lights were fine until the Green Flag bloke had a poke aroundand got sparks out of it... I'm hoping that problem is the light switch as it seems odd that all side and headlight functions have disappeared from the switch in one go!

What's down stream of the ignition 'start'? Is it a direct line to the starter relay in the fuse box?

Just realised I didn't PM you after all that, I'll do it now. Cheers!
Click to expand...


Wiring schematic sent
 
You could also try unplugging the glowplug timer, it is conceivable it could have some internal short which is causing the issue as it is also connected to the 'crank' contact of the ignition switch. If it is a chafed cable it should be confined to the White/Red wire, starter relay or timer.
 
Thanks Kwakerman. Er, what does it look like? I was hoping to become a bit more familiar with dirty diesels before having to fix stuff, I still don't know where the coil and distributor have gone...
 
PS Earths all seem to be ok as far as I can tell Flat, although I've struggled to test what happens when I turn the key sometimes as I Leo t have enough hands!
 
110Weasel said:
Thanks Kwakerman. Er, what does it look like? I was hoping to become a bit more familiar with dirty diesels before having to fix stuff, I still don't know where the coil and distributor have gone...
Click to expand...

Should be on the bulkhead in the engine compartment, roughly the same size as a box of 'fags' (not the homosexual American variety :D), check the wire colour coding to confirm you have the right bit.
 
Finally! Combination of a bare wire on the light feed and a mess of PO wiring off the back of the ignition. Ran a new feed to the ignition and took the 15A fuse off the starter signal and it's all good. Thanks for your help Kwakerman, couldn't have done it without your help!
 
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