Datatek
Well-Known Member
Yes green, can be hard to spot inside the connector. You need a good contact cleaner spray, or cut out the connector and solder the wires.
customknight
Active Member
Ok, any recommendation on contact cleaner? Maplin?
I'd rather remove and solder. Can you get new obd sockets and do the same with that?
I'd rather remove and solder. Can you get new obd sockets and do the same with that?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
You can get new OBD sockets, expensive as a one off, or you can get a secondhand replacement. Personally if mine needed replacing, I'd use a "D" connector.
Maplin do contact cleaner, you need the non lubricating version.
customknight
Active Member
Thank you, I'll grab some tomorrow. I can't see anything within the obd connector so I don't know if it needs replacing. Ill try the cleaner first, how does it work?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Supposedly disolves the crap, but you need to part and close the connector a few times at the same time as applying the cleaner.
customknight
Active Member
Right well I've found the connectors you were talking about and the one with more wires in it is very badly corroded indeed. There are two ports which are so badly corroded it has almost dissolved the wiring.
When I chop and join them do I do both plugs?
Do you happen to know what all these wires are for; which systems?
When I chop and join them do I do both plugs?
Do you happen to know what all these wires are for; which systems?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Some at least are for the EAS. Cut solder and heat shrink sleeve the lot, just don't get confused, do one wire at a time.
customknight
Active Member
NEWS!! I have doe exactly what you said, before you told me, granted, but exactly the same way!
I completely disconnected both of the white connectors as they were totally shot at and hey presto, the laptop now talks to the EAS. However, it firstly said that all the valves were stuck open, and once I reset it said RL height incorrect or something like that. Which sensor is RL...NS or OS?
Now what do I need to do?
Thank you for everything so far!!
I completely disconnected both of the white connectors as they were totally shot at and hey presto, the laptop now talks to the EAS. However, it firstly said that all the valves were stuck open, and once I reset it said RL height incorrect or something like that. Which sensor is RL...NS or OS?
Now what do I need to do?
Thank you for everything so far!!
rear left
customknight
Active Member
nice. I know that!!! But is it RL looking from the drivers sitting position, or RL looking forward into the engine bay which most Haynes manuals use. So I ask again...NS or OS!!!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Rear Left is the left side of the car rear axle, the left side of a car is the left side of the car whichever way you look at it.
So I ask again...NS or OS!!!
customknight
Active Member
I think we must be getting confused here.
If you sit in the driver seat you are facing forwards. Therefore the left side is the Near Side.
If you are facing the engine bay as described in most workshop manuals you are facing backwards, the left side is the Off Side.
This is why I'm confused. Which perspective am I supposed to be looking at the car from?!!!
If you sit in the driver seat you are facing forwards. Therefore the left side is the Near Side.
If you are facing the engine bay as described in most workshop manuals you are facing backwards, the left side is the Off Side.
This is why I'm confused. Which perspective am I supposed to be looking at the car from?!!!
customknight
Active Member
Got it, rear left is NSR. Why can't rover just be clear on things?!
Thanks for the help. Going to try to clean the sensor and see what happens.
Thanks for the help. Going to try to clean the sensor and see what happens.
customknight
Active Member
Well so far everything is seized and the nut head shave rounded off with the first turn. Marvellous!!
However the connection from the body to the height sensor has no pics in it. Imagine there's a problem there.
I'm just going to wire in spade connectors for the sensor and see if that restores comms to the sensor.
Wish me luck.
However the connection from the body to the height sensor has no pics in it. Imagine there's a problem there.
I'm just going to wire in spade connectors for the sensor and see if that restores comms to the sensor.
Wish me luck.
customknight
Active Member
Well it wasn't the connector. Replaced all the wiring and it's still sayin the same fault. So I'll have to change it over with a replacement unit when I find one.
What is the reading on that height sensor???
i.e. is the data reading vastly different to the others??
The software is great and can help you diagnose things, but also the EAS system is very stupid! As an example, the system will tell you a valve is stuck or a height sensor is dicky when you actually have a leak and there is nothing wrong with the valve or sensor...it is just that the ECU is expecting a change in height but nothing happens so it 'assumes' that either the valve isn't opening making the height change possible or that the sensor isn't telling it that a height change has taken place - when in actuallity the bag has split preventing the height change....
Read the sensor value in the software and see if it is different to what should be expected, and/or measure the resistance across the sensor using a DVM whilst moving the sensor arm and make sure the reading changes with the arm movement without spikes or jumps!
i.e. is the data reading vastly different to the others??
The software is great and can help you diagnose things, but also the EAS system is very stupid! As an example, the system will tell you a valve is stuck or a height sensor is dicky when you actually have a leak and there is nothing wrong with the valve or sensor...it is just that the ECU is expecting a change in height but nothing happens so it 'assumes' that either the valve isn't opening making the height change possible or that the sensor isn't telling it that a height change has taken place - when in actuallity the bag has split preventing the height change....
Read the sensor value in the software and see if it is different to what should be expected, and/or measure the resistance across the sensor using a DVM whilst moving the sensor arm and make sure the reading changes with the arm movement without spikes or jumps!
customknight
Active Member
Front left 165
Front right 169
Rear left 26
Rear right 136
So quite a difference. All te bags are new. Compressor is new. Dryer is new. I can't see any leaks anywhere but the rear right does go down slowly overnight. Once I get it working ill start the leak checks.
Just discovered that the shocker on that side has snapped so I think the sensor has gone out of range at some point and it's broken it.
The shocker is being replaced now. One thing after another!!
Front right 169
Rear left 26
Rear right 136
So quite a difference. All te bags are new. Compressor is new. Dryer is new. I can't see any leaks anywhere but the rear right does go down slowly overnight. Once I get it working ill start the leak checks.
Just discovered that the shocker on that side has snapped so I think the sensor has gone out of range at some point and it's broken it.
The shocker is being replaced now. One thing after another!!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
NSR would be the right side of the car on a LHD vehicle, that's why it's described as left rear. The left side of a car is always the left, ditto the right side.Got it, rear left is NSR. Why can't rover just be clear on things?!
Thanks for the help. Going to try to clean the sensor and see what happens.
