Thanks for the above - so when you protect the underneath of the 90, do you cover it everywhere? Obviously not the engine/wheels - but the axles, bottom of the cabin, footwells etc?
Basically yes. Avoid the brakes and exhaust and try and get it into all nooks and crannies. Some kind of injector lance would be good to get inside cavities as much as possible. Inside door posts and bulkhead and obviously chassis are important. If your door frames are in good order, drill a hole and get it into there until it runs out the bottom, but ensure you don’t block the bottom drain holes.
 
Thanks for the above - so when you protect the underneath of the 90, do you cover it everywhere? Obviously not the engine/wheels - but the axles, bottom of the cabin, footwells etc?
Everything that does not get hot, or move.

But make sure you do the inside of the chassis box sections as well, that is even more important than the outside.
 
Finally managed to get the power washer under it today... still so much missed! Any tips that dont involve me under it with a pressure washer, or is it on my back with a brush?

Also saw this today with regards to undersea - looks very cool! Anyone know what it is or if any good?
 

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Finally managed to get the power washer under it today... still so much missed! Any tips that dont involve me under it with a pressure washer, or is it on my back with a brush?

Also saw this today with regards to undersea - looks very cool! Anyone know what it is or if any good?
Going by the image name, it’s Waxoil. It was the standard underbody protection for years, but it’s not what it used to be.
 
So whats the best one to use?
Well…..you will get many opinions on this one. I’ve only used Waxoil, but only because I had loads of it. It isn’t great though and rust just seems to keep forming underneath it. Dinitrol and Bilt-Hamber are two products many will recommend. Lanolin is another one that’s talked about, but others who have used these will hopefully advise on on them.
 
Also forgot to mention - when looking under I also noticed this on the footwell. Any ideas what work has been done on it?
 

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No matter which anti corrosion system you use none are a do once thing, depending on the use of vehicle, where you live it is a repeat job. I live by the sea and mine is a working farm truck, gets a good underside wash/dry then respray with engine oil and diesel mix every year.
 

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I'm a big fan of Lanlin based coatings but the chassis does need to be clean and as much as possible rust free (rust treated) first and then its a yearly thing to keep on top of it.

Lanoguard is the original and there are plenty of other makes available these days.
Ewe Stop is good as it uses a cobalt drier so can be painted over.

These coating do take a while to dry/cure (2 days is good) so they are not really suited to a daily driver.
Being translucent you can easily see if the tin worm is coming back, which I see as an advantage over the black coatings that hide whats going on underneath ...
 
So ours not some underseal that has been put on heavily with a brush? 🤞
I thought you were talking about the rust !! If you’re talking about the thicker stuff at the corners etc, that’s Seam Sealer that looks like that from new as it’s usually is applied by hand using a brush.
 
Whatever product you use there is no point in spraying it on the rust, you have to deal with that first.
Firstly it's vital you clean the inside of the chassis, then some sort of rust converter followed by a generous coat of cavity wax. Then you can deal with the outside.
Or you can just spray some black stuff on the outside after rust treatment.
You could ignore it all and then spray some stuff on it when you sell to try and fool the buyer.
Another option is weld it up while saving for a new chassis.
In the past 9 years I have cleaned, painted, sprayed the chassis many times, I am now welding it up to get a few more years out of it while new chassis fund is building up.
 
Nope, standard, chassis looks solid and only ight corrosion so nothing to worry about at all. all good IMO.
If you want wire brush on drill and will clean up well then give a good waxoyl / Tetrosil stonechip / etc chassis paint rattle can or Schutz gun etc.
 
Nope, standard, chassis looks solid and only ight corrosion so nothing to worry about at all. all good IMO.
If you want wire brush on drill and will clean up well then give a good waxoyl / Tetrosil stonechip / etc chassis paint rattle can or Schutz gun etc.
Always a relief when someone who knows what they are looking at says its ok! :)
 
Fluid film, look at my fluid film thread from a few years back, its lanolin based and you spray it inside and out using compressor, absolutely amazing product and it’s all pretty much still on there and the underneath of my landy puts most others to shame even the pumas, as mentioned above you will need to wash off the underside and remove any flaking rust and ideally vacuum out the chassis legs and using compressed air with a long nozzle to remove the mud in bits you can’t reach into, get that footwell sorted asap or that could turn out pretty nasty
 

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