mcapinha

Active Member
Hi all.

My indy mechanic put a new headgasket on my 2.5 DSE and after running it for a few hours on idle it seems that the hoses are still getting hard and it's possible to see air bubbles coming from the radiator bleed pipe into the expansion tank. I'm guessing that after a few hours of running all air should be out and the mechanic is also inclined that something is wrong.

After removing the head the old HG showed signs of burning on cylinders 2,3,4 and 5 :eek: . The head was heated and pressure tested and it passed. It was also checked for warping and was OK.

Assuming that:
1) the head is OK (a long shot, I know);
2) the HG was correctly installed;
3) the head correctly torqued down.

what could be the problem now ?

Is it common (known to happen) for the diesel blocks to warp or to crack ? Because this is the only thing that would explain the problem assuming 1),2) and 3).

Also, the mechanic told me that he didn't follow the instructions on RAVE but instead used the instructions that came with the headgasket. Is this normal, the HG coming with different instructions that the workshop manual ? I'm guessing that as time passes the materials of the HG could have evolved and that the manual may not be up to date ?

Your thoughts please ?
 
Hi all.

My indy mechanic put a new headgasket on my 2.5 DSE and after running it for a few hours on idle it seems that the hoses are still getting hard and it's possible to see air bubbles coming from the radiator bleed pipe into the expansion tank. I'm guessing that after a few hours of running all air should be out and the mechanic is also inclined that something is wrong.

After removing the head the old HG showed signs of burning on cylinders 2,3,4 and 5 :eek: . The head was heated and pressure tested and it passed. It was also checked for warping and was OK.

Assuming that:
1) the head is OK (a long shot, I know);
2) the HG was correctly installed;
3) the head correctly torqued down.

what could be the problem now ?

Is it common (known to happen) for the diesel blocks to warp or to crack ? Because this is the only thing that would explain the problem assuming 1),2) and 3).

Also, the mechanic told me that he didn't follow the instructions on RAVE but instead used the instructions that came with the headgasket. Is this normal, the HG coming with different instructions that the workshop manual ? I'm guessing that as time passes the materials of the HG could have evolved and that the manual may not be up to date ?

Your thoughts please ?

Gotta follow the Rave bible. If head gasket is ok, could be airlock, waterpump, viscous fan coupling.
 
Hi all.

My indy mechanic put a new headgasket on my 2.5 DSE and after running it for a few hours on idle it seems that the hoses are still getting hard and it's possible to see air bubbles coming from the radiator bleed pipe into the expansion tank. I'm guessing that after a few hours of running all air should be out and the mechanic is also inclined that something is wrong.

After removing the head the old HG showed signs of burning on cylinders 2,3,4 and 5 :eek: . The head was heated and pressure tested and it passed. It was also checked for warping and was OK.

Assuming that:
1) the head is OK (a long shot, I know);
2) the HG was correctly installed;
3) the head correctly torqued down.

what could be the problem now ?

Is it common (known to happen) for the diesel blocks to warp or to crack ? Because this is the only thing that would explain the problem assuming 1),2) and 3).

Also, the mechanic told me that he didn't follow the instructions on RAVE but instead used the instructions that came with the headgasket. Is this normal, the HG coming with different instructions that the workshop manual ? I'm guessing that as time passes the materials of the HG could have evolved and that the manual may not be up to date ?

Your thoughts please ?

Take it this is tightening sequence that differs. The RAVE sequence is pretty specific. Do you know what the instructions that came with the gasket said?
 
I would of thought you will get a slight water come through bleed pipe even when bled , more inportant is it overheating like before ????
 
I would of thought you will get a slight water come through bleed pipe even when bled , more inportant is it overheating like before ????

There should be a constant flow from the bleed pipe to the expansion tank once warm.:D
If the HG was burnt between all those cylinders, either the head was not torqued down correctly, the wrong gasket was fitted or the head is warped.
 
There should be a constant flow from the bleed pipe to the expansion tank once warm.:D
If the HG was burnt between all those cylinders, either the head was not torqued down correctly, the wrong gasket was fitted or the head is warped.

Yep all that water being pushed around ,an open hole into explantion tank it's got too I think he is worrying can't blame him , but I would drive it keep checking water level as long as its not getting hot leave it , he didn't mention heat so things must of improved :) hopefully
 
Yep all that water being pushed around ,an open hole into explantion tank it's got too I think he is worrying can't blame him , but I would drive it keep checking water level as long as its not getting hot leave it , he didn't mention heat so things must of improved :) hopefully
I don't think he's got as far as doing anything that might cause it to overheat:eek:
It has not had the head torqued down according to RAVE and last time the HG failed across all but one cylinder pair, I would say it's going to fail again PDQ:eek::eek::eek:
 
Thing is,
Is it overheating?
Is it forcing coolant out?
The system is pressurised to 15 PSI hoses are not going to be soft are they.
 
+1 is this a landrover dealer were talking here doing work if so OMG

He will have to wait and see. Personally i would have followed RAVE. But it depends how much the two methods vary. Specially if it was a composite gasket made in wungfudong province or on some back street in Calcutta. I which case it is highly likely to be compressed cow ****. :D:D:D
 
He will have to wait and see. Personally i would have followed RAVE. But it depends how much the two methods vary. Specially if it was a composite gasket made in wungfudong province or on some back street in Calcutta. I which case it is highly likely to be compressed cow ****. :D:D:D
:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi
 
:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi

Not as daft as it sounds Keith. A few years ago an Indian airforce Canberra crashed on land after maintenance shakedown flight, killing the pilot and navigator. The brake pads that had been changed as part of the service and drawn from stores in a genuine Ferodo box, were made from compressed cow ****. True story.
 
Not as daft as it sounds Keith. A few years ago an Indian airforce Canberra crashed on land after maintenance shakedown flight, killing the pilot and navigator. The brake pads that had been changed as part of the service and drawn from stores in a genuine Ferodo box, were made from compressed cow ****. True story.

Should have fed the cows on asbestos fibre, would have been fine then:)

Some of the stuff coming from China is not much better:eek:
 
Should have fed the cows on asbestos fibre, would have been fine then:)

Some of the stuff coming from China is not much better:eek:

Rebuilt an RS turbo engine for the lad a while ago he got gaskets off Ebay. I asked him about them because they had no name on the packaging, he said they were competition gaskets and had cost him a lot of money. So i fitted them. After two weeks head gasket let go and scrapped a piston. Water ingress. The rubber sump gasket on the Ebay set had split along it's length in a few places. Absolute crap. Got some Payen gaskets and rebuilt it fine after that. You just don't know anymore there is so much cheap rubbish Chink and Indian stuff about.
 
As many of you guessed, it hasn't been driven yet so there's no overheating.
I know that there should be a steady stream of coolant from the bleed pipe but the problem is that, even after having been run for a few hours at idle, it stills shows some air popping up from the submerged pipe that's in the expansion tank. I'm just afraid that this air is combustion gases leaking into the coolant (again).

About the block, what are your feelings about this ? Are there any know cases of blocks cracking or getting their top face warped ?

Thanks for all your input, you guys are the best :)
 
As many of you guessed, it hasn't been driven yet so there's no overheating.
I know that there should be a steady stream of coolant from the bleed pipe but the problem is that, even after having been run for a few hours at idle, it stills shows some air popping up from the submerged pipe that's in the expansion tank. I'm just afraid that this air is combustion gases leaking into the coolant (again).

About the block, what are your feelings about this ? Are there any know cases of blocks cracking or getting their top face warped ?

Thanks for all your input, you guys are the best :)
All I can say it drive it, quick,you just had a garage check it , sitting there isn't going to prove much work it !! If there are problems your soon know. and you , I hope have Receipts so you can soon take it RIGHT back and complaine as if its been checked they have to take responsibility !!
 
As many of you guessed, it hasn't been driven yet so there's no overheating.
I know that there should be a steady stream of coolant from the bleed pipe but the problem is that, even after having been run for a few hours at idle, it stills shows some air popping up from the submerged pipe that's in the expansion tank. I'm just afraid that this air is combustion gases leaking into the coolant (again).

About the block, what are your feelings about this ? Are there any know cases of blocks cracking or getting their top face warped ?

Thanks for all your input, you guys are the best :)

Get it static tested see how much pressure is building, if it is combustion gas it will go off scale PDQ. Only way to crack a cast block is to put a con rod through it.
 
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It's still at the garage and the work is being done under the warranty of the previous HG work, so no worries there (so far).
Tomorrow it is going to be tested for gases in the coolant and we'll know if it is leaking again or not. I've also asked the mechanic to send me the instructions that he followed for torquing down the head and I'll post those as soon as I get them.
 
Thanks for the link.

But buying a used head brings me to another problem that I've already posted about. What guaranties do I have that the head is OK ? Since mine is supposedly good after being checked for warpness and pressure tests but at the same time I'm having problems with it.
 

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