gold rover
Well-Known Member
Looks nice. Is that the plate you were waiting to be put on , in the pic? Or is that the previous owner's?
gazzab79
New Member
na thts previous owners. its gonna be back on an s reg. Thinking of getting a heap plate of my own just so its dateless. will be upgrading headlights to y2k spec soon. stopped on my way home cos i had munchies, when i set off again the abs light came on. the peddle went dead soft, had hardly ant brakes, then went hard. I stopped turned engine off for a min, set off again and was fine. After about 20 miles got the abs message on dash but the brakes were fine. 
gold rover
Well-Known Member
Oh dear, did you not have an ABS fault try to kill you before?
edit: My bad it was the gas cutting out that tried to kill you
edit: My bad it was the gas cutting out that tried to kill you
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Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
It should come on After a few pumps or crack a front caliper bleed screw turn ignition on and see if its pumping fluid well
Ps looks nice like the colour
Ps looks nice like the colour
gazzab79
New Member
yeah will do, been driving about today and its been fine!
bodywork is really clean, back bumper and mirrors need repainting as it looks a bit rough. luckily thts my job lol. interior is lightstone. needs a good clean up and steering whhel needs re colouring. But overall very happy with it.
will upload before and after pics as i go through the jobs
bodywork is really clean, back bumper and mirrors need repainting as it looks a bit rough. luckily thts my job lol. interior is lightstone. needs a good clean up and steering whhel needs re colouring. But overall very happy with it.
will upload before and after pics as i go through the jobs
StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
or crack a front caliper bleed screw turn ignition on and see if its pumping fluid well
Why would the pump running create pressure in the brake lines? Surely this would mean the brakes lock on when you turn the ignition on?
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Why would the pump running create pressure in the brake lines? Surely this would mean the brakes lock on when you turn the ignition on?
One the cars not running and two read rave and the bleeding prosses .
Bye turning the ignition activates the pump no nipple open its stops open a nipple and if the pump has pressure it will pump the fluid out indicating the pump is working by closing the nipple the pressure is built up allowing the pressure switch to do it job and cut the pump .
When you press the brake you get the power of your pressure combined with the pumps stored pressure simples
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StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
That to me suggests a failure of a pressure switch would mean the brakes become jammed on by an over-running pressure pump, I've never heard of this phenomenon. RAVE always mentions depressing the brake pedal in relation to bleeding the brake calipers. I can't see a running pump having any influence on brake line pressure unless you are pressing the brake pedal - unless you are talking about something like an HGV air brake system where the presence of air pressure is what stops the emergency brake activating (against spring pressure) - the opposite of most passenger car systems. Surely pressing the brake pedal is the only way of influencing brake-line pressure on a P38? Or is inappropriate, uncommanded application of the brakes really at the whim of a pressure switch? I find that hard to believe.
StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I believe 99 onwards cars got uprated pumps with no plastic washers.
rasheed
Well-Known Member
It should come on After a few pumps or crack a front caliper bleed screw turn ignition on and see if its pumping fluid well
Why would the pump running create pressure in the brake lines? Surely this would mean the brakes lock on when you turn the ignition on?
Yes and no. Rave suggests exactly that method for bleeding the back calipers, not the front.
Just been through that. Very scary as sometimes the 'debris' can line up just so and everything seems to work fine again for a few days and then from one minute to the next bam! absolutely no brakes. For info I ordered the steel washers from Aus - they took that long to come that I ended up also buying a used modulator on ebay and eventually both arrived together. I've done the modulator swap and decided to hold on to the washers for the future but I can tell you, once I got them, I did feel a little bit hard done by as I paid €140 for basically something that would probably be 2 for a quid in any hardware store if they sold them. Can't tell that there's anything special about the grade of steel used or anything (what they're to replace was just plastic after all) and slightly tempted to wander into the machine shop and turn out a few dozen just for LZ friends and users!
Gazza, looks really good mate. My second fave colour for a P38! Post up some pics of the interior once you've cleaned it up.
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The Hydraulic Boost Pump and Accumulator store pressure for use in the braking system....
Consider the system in 2 halves - Pressure Storage Side and Brake Components Side - seperated by a valve (the Brake Pedal)...
When you press the brake pedal this allows pressure stored in the Accumulator to boost the Hydraulic Pressure required to activate the brakes, when you come off the Brake pedal, it vents this pressure back to the Fluid Reservoir, and closes off the Boost circuit....
When Accumulator pressure drops, the Hydraulic Boost Pump runs to recharge the Accumulator Pressure.
Unfortunatly, if the pump dies or the accumulator gets weak, braking efficency is greatly reduced.
Grit Valves description is wrong, the boost pump does not circulate through the braking system constantly and as such cannot be used to bleed the brakes....you will need to activate the brake pedal to allow fluid to flow....else, as you say, the brakes would be on constantly from the Pump pressure!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
You got there first with a better description than I could give, sums it up nicely.
