Landlover99 · 2025-08-23T20:08:56+0100

Hi all,

I just took my recently acquired 1989 110 County in for a service and there's some stuff I don't understand the significance of (or price of getting fixed either!) I'm primarily a bodywork guy. Can anyone assist in explaining how dire these first 3 items requiring attention are please?
Many thanks,

LL

Anaconda · 2025-08-23T20:57:52+0100

Not very dire at all really.

LG199714 · 2025-08-24T06:13:56+0100

Hub seals and Radius arm is dire imo. Any worn bushes can throw off alignment and possibly cause a death wobble in the future etc. Hub seals also are something i would sort out. if the source of the leak is coming from your wheel bearings again something I would address asap.

c3 spec for that motor is like 20 years in the future. Designed more for motors with aftertreatment systems.
What motor do you have?

For the td5 they recommend A5/B5 Acea spec, but this is a very fuel-efficient spec. Try 5w40 A3/B4 Spec for better protection of your motor.

bluedog333 · 2025-08-24T06:32:03+0100

LG199714 said:
For the td5 they recommend A5/B5 Acea spec, but this is a very fuel-efficient spec. Try 5w40 A3/B4 Spec for better protection of your motor.

It’s not a TD5 though. Probably a 19J 2.5TD, or maybe a 200tdi transplant. Neither of which are particularly fussy as to exact specs.
Front hub seal leaks could possibly just be the rubber hub caps.

LG199714 · 2025-08-24T07:44:58+0100

bluedog333 said:
It’s not a TD5 though. Probably a 19J 2.5TD, or maybe a 200tdi transplant. Neither of which are particularly fussy as to exact specs.
Front hub seal leaks could possibly just be the rubber hub caps.

i know thats why i asked the motor type. For any motor, the specs are 1000% percent important. Quality of oil, maybe you can play around with but do your research and you will understand. Google lake speed the oil geek.

marjon · 2025-08-24T08:31:22+0100

Personally I wouldnt use a fully syn oil with those specs in the V8.

J

Landlover99 · 2025-08-24T09:04:05+0100

LG199714 said:
Hub seals and Radius arm is dire imo. Any worn bushes can throw off alignment and possibly cause a death wobble in the future etc. Hub seals also are something i would sort out. if the source of the leak is coming from your wheel bearings again something I would address asap.

c3 spec for that motor is like 20 years in the future. Designed more for motors with aftertreatment systems.
What motor do you have?

For the td5 they recommend A5/B5 Acea spec, but this is a very fuel-efficient spec. Try 5w40 A3/B4 Spec for better protection of your motor.

As Marjon already knows, this is the classic 3.5 litre V8 model. You said hub seals and radius arms are dire, but I have no idea what's involved in replacing them. Is this a seriously big job?

Hicap phill · 2025-08-24T09:15:33+0100

Landlover99 said:
As Marjon already knows, this is the classic 3.5 litre V8 model. You said hub seals and radius arms are dire, but I have no idea what's involved in replacing them. Is this a seriously big job?

Unless you have acsess to a large press,replace these with poly bushes(poly flex)
Hacksaw through the hole & cut the metal. Burn the rubber
Cut/chisel both metal tubes out
Hour each side as a guide

bluedog333 · 2025-08-24T10:13:40+0100

Landlover99 said:
As Marjon already knows, this is the classic 3.5 litre V8 model. You said hub seals and radius arms are dire, but I have no idea what's involved in replacing them. Is this a seriously big job?

Hub seals might just be the rubber end caps leaking? Have a look where the leak is coming from.
You’ll need access to a hydraulic press to replace the bushes, unless you opt for poly. A friendly garage might change the bushes if you took the arms to them, for a few beer tokens (save yourself a bit of money, as getting the arms off is simple enough.

LG199714 · 2025-08-24T10:50:29+0100

Landlover99 said:
As Marjon already knows, this is the classic 3.5 litre V8 model. You said hub seals and radius arms are dire, but I have no idea what's involved in replacing them. Is this a seriously big job?

It is a matter of three bolts and press to remove and reinstall the bushes. Not something you can't do with a little patience's, proper preparation and research.

Did he provide photos to these claims? Curious to know his opinion on "worn".

I believe they don't make rubber anymore last time I checked but they make poly bushes. Choose wisely as various poly bushes come with different strengths based off what you're using the truck for. just a tip

Landlover99 · 2025-08-24T14:06:06+0100

I was hoping these jobs were something that Buster would have covered in one of his instructionals, but it appears not. It wouldn't take me long to fab a hydraulic press up from some structural steel I have and a bottle jack, so that aspect doesn't faze me at all. The steering does feel a bit vague and wandery at times; barely noticeable but there nevertheless. So I'm guessing that's what's causing it.

Landlover99 · 2025-08-24T14:08:32+0100

bluedog333 said:
Hub seals might just be the rubber end caps leaking? Have a look where the leak is coming from.
You’ll need access to a hydraulic press to replace the bushes, unless you opt for poly. A friendly garage might change the bushes if you took the arms to them, for a few beer tokens (save yourself a bit of money, as getting the arms off is simple enough.

It's seeping out of the wheel centres and dripping down the outside of the wheel and tyre, so it was quite noticeable. Would this be hypoid axle oil from the diff?

Anaconda · 2025-08-24T15:32:52+0100

LG199714 said:
Hub seals and Radius arm is dire imo. Any worn bushes can throw off alignment and possibly cause a death wobble in the future etc. Hub seals also are something i would sort out. if the source of the leak is coming from your wheel bearings again something I would address asap.

c3 spec for that motor is like 20 years in the future. Designed more for motors with aftertreatment systems.
What motor do you have?

For the td5 they recommend A5/B5 Acea spec, but this is a very fuel-efficient spec. Try 5w40 A3/B4 Spec for better protection of your motor.

I think he means is it a dire job to do/expensive.

Anaconda · 2025-08-24T15:35:51+0100

Landlover99 said:
It's seeping out of the wheel centres and dripping down the outside of the wheel and tyre, so it was quite noticeable. Would this be hypoid axle oil from the diff?

That's not hub seal then, hub seal would leak behind the wheel.
Pretty sure the rubber end caps have been mentioned already? Zoom in and you will see it.

bluedog333 · 2025-08-24T16:03:31+0100

Landlover99 said:
It's seeping out of the wheel centres and dripping down the outside of the wheel and tyre, so it was quite noticeable. Would this be hypoid axle oil from the diff?

Sounds like diff oil leaking out of the end caps then. You’ll need to check the diff breathers are clear and possibly replace the rubber caps (get genuine if you can).
The breather is on the top side of the diff. Very easy to unscrew it and check, clean the banjo bolt of it looks clogged and you should be able to blow air through the pipe using lung power.

Landlover99 · 2025-08-24T17:35:51+0100

Someone's already carved out an access flap of about 8x8" under the rear floor carpet just above the diff by the look of it - and then pop-riveted it back into place. Funny thing to do: cutting a hole in the floor! I wonder if they've had this problem before.....
So which is the biggest PITA to deal with here (in terms of expense and time)? The radius arm bushes or the leaking end caps? And what if it's the "outer hub seals" as per the report? Is that worse than leaking end caps?

Landlover99 · 2025-08-24T17:39:33+0100

Anaconda said:
That's not hub seal then, hub seal would leak behind the wheel.
Pretty sure the rubber end caps have been mentioned already? Zoom in and you will see it.
View attachment 348373

Anaconda, that's the livery I really wanted on mine. If I could have had one finished like yours I'd have changed my Will so I could be buried in it. You're a very lucky man.

Anaconda · 2025-08-24T18:32:21+0100

Landlover99 said:
Anaconda, that's the livery I really wanted on mine. If I could have had one finished like yours I'd have changed my Will so I could be buried in it. You're a very lucky man.

It's my son's Ninety.

Anaconda · 2025-08-24T18:34:58+0100

Landlover99 said:
Someone's already carved out an access flap of about 8x8" under the rear floor carpet just above the diff by the look of it - and then pop-riveted it back into place. Funny thing to do: cutting a hole in the floor! I wonder if they've had this problem before.....
So which is the biggest PITA to deal with here (in terms of expense and time)? The radius arm bushes or the leaking end caps? And what if it's the "outer hub seals" as per the report? Is that worse than leaking end caps?

The plastic end caps just pull off and push back on, if that's the problem.
Radius arm bushes are a bit more involved and time consuming. Be prepared to cut the bolts of with a cutting disc on an angle grinder.

LG199714 · 2025-08-24T19:04:18+0100

In theory, the flange and end cap should have some type of sealant on it. Most dont such as myself because I never go wading but occasionally.

I believe those early years used oil for the whole axle. Just use some sealant to seal the hub up. Call it a day.

Radius arm, plenty of youtube videos. Can you forward a photo of the radius arm bushes to get a forum vote whether you should change or not?

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