Another exciting couple of days with the 110 this week

On Monday noticed oil puddle beneath Landy. Not sure what the problem was and knowing that my crank seal was a bit crappy I decided to go down the clutch > crank seal route via the gearbox out methods. Ordered kit late Tuesday from Paddocks and it arrived today.

Put some more oil in today and went for a drive. When I got back sure enough there had been a catastrophic failure - oil everywhere. Jet washed engine bay and bottom but still can't see where the oil is coming from. Seems to be originating quite high up to the near-side of the gearbox bellhousing. It's not coming from the bottom of the bellhousing. The whole nearside of the engine bay is covered in oil - like it's exploded...

Anyway I deicde to proceed with crank seal figuring that I might bump into what is causing the leak on the way.

Spent ALL DAY p**sing about trying to the get the seatbox etc out. I'm a novice mechanic but I am so annoyed with myself that it 's taking so long. I expected it to take 2 hours tops but here I am at the end of the day and the seatbox is *still* not out (There are two bolts remaining).

So lots of questions and hard work remain....

• If it's not the crank seal (which would surprise me if it leaked that much oil in that short amount of time) - What could it be?

Also...

• Why the flippin 'eck do they put the screws most vulnerable to rust in the footwell? (Posidrive as opposed to bolts)
• Why do they make bolts with those stupid square retainers that just keep rotating and are impossible to access in order to clamp.

Also to vent my frustration...RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA...*die rusty bolts die*

ccould be head gasket ! oil pasages do run near to the edge of head !!

Get a recip saw and an angle grinder That and a big hammer & chisel are the only tools yu need.

redhand said:

Get a recip saw and an angle grinder That and a big hammer & chisel are the only tools yu need.

Click to expand...

Haha, so often this is true. I remember taking apart some old series II's that had been sitting for a while at an old enthusiasts's place (he had passed away and the daughter sold them).

The CRC got a hell of a lot of use, and inevitably so did the angle grinder. The most frustrating thing was the fact that being a Series II, none of the nuts were welded or fixed, so you always had to have someone holding a spanner or socket on the other side.

redhand said:

Get a recip saw and an angle grinder That and a big hammer & chisel are the only tools yu need.

Click to expand...

Recip saw is an awesome bit of kit ... don't skimp on buying cheap blades, when they shatter they go explosively! Decent blades don't go as easily and they tend to bend first.

And if you have a compressor even a small air chisel makes even easier work of chiselling nuts etc apart!

How would I know if it was head gasket? The oil on the stick is black but thin and does seem a little watery. I did just change it though.

have you looked at oil filter and oil centrifuge

Pah! I'm giving up...so depressed after fighting with the Landy. Going to throw in the towel and pay for the clutch (and now possibly the head gasket) to be fitted.

hgf would give you coolant issues ,

Just popped the top off the coolant and it's filled with black sludge...those kind of issues?

if its just oil it could easy be oil heat exchanger on passenger side of engine under exhaust manifold

Hi
Dont give up hope i had a problem almost the same. i took the breather off the top of the crank case & ran it through with a rag & it was absoloutley gunged up with sludge cleaned it all out jetwashed the engine problem solved.
The crank case /engine couldnt breath and was pushing film of oil any where it could mainly o/s of the engine try that.

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