jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Define better?
It will cause you more problems trust me!
It will cause you more problems trust me!
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
A bit of reading but might help you out.
3.5 efi
Well-Known Member
says you.
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Reason behind me saying it will cause problems:
Depending on if your propshaft is original equipment or a replacement depends on how bad the rear propshaft will bind up if at all when the rear axle is hanging. This hanging will also stress the rear bushes which could be replaced for cranked arms to reduce the stress. Back to the binding problem the extended brake line and oh and there is this question of the hanging wheel that will have bugger all weight on it to give any resistance to aid drive which will just spin through the open diff. (sitting there spinning up diff centres is an amateur driving mistake ask any serious comp person, This will also damage the diff and you can expect bits to be flying through your diff pan or have a diff pan full of broken pins and diff gears).
So you need: A wide angled propshaft, extended brake line, cranked arms, longer springs because std springs will pop out and the fact that you have not really improved owt just spent £400 or £500 on bling when adopting a different driving style could probably got you through it. It does look trick but if thats your thing go for it! Ow I forgot some cranked arms you will need a polybish kit because the original mettalistic bushes are a loose fitment due to prro quality manufacturing so more expense. Well my vranked arms in the shed are cos they are ****e!
Depending on if your propshaft is original equipment or a replacement depends on how bad the rear propshaft will bind up if at all when the rear axle is hanging. This hanging will also stress the rear bushes which could be replaced for cranked arms to reduce the stress. Back to the binding problem the extended brake line and oh and there is this question of the hanging wheel that will have bugger all weight on it to give any resistance to aid drive which will just spin through the open diff. (sitting there spinning up diff centres is an amateur driving mistake ask any serious comp person, This will also damage the diff and you can expect bits to be flying through your diff pan or have a diff pan full of broken pins and diff gears).
So you need: A wide angled propshaft, extended brake line, cranked arms, longer springs because std springs will pop out and the fact that you have not really improved owt just spent £400 or £500 on bling when adopting a different driving style could probably got you through it. It does look trick but if thats your thing go for it! Ow I forgot some cranked arms you will need a polybish kit because the original mettalistic bushes are a loose fitment due to prro quality manufacturing so more expense. Well my vranked arms in the shed are cos they are ****e!
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jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Yea my spelling is errrr lazy
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Its not as simple as that either +2 mounts alone will just limit downward droop and allow for more compression which most people do not need. +2 mounts and +2 shocks work well but again you need lots of mods because the droop will cause issues. +2 inch shocks alone same as before however upward travel is more limited (sometimes got away with if used with larger tyres and extended bumpstops)
-2 shock mounts will provide more droop but limit upward compression all other things being equal. this is used on comp motors that use large (not your 35 inch weeny simex either) tyres as the upward compression is not needed (tyres foul body) befoe the suspension tops out in effect you are moving the compression and full droop down 2 inches from std. Comp motors are equipped with plenty of mods props brakelines castor corrected arms lits is endless so this works well keeps the car slightly more stable while their difflocks do the work. Plus comp motors rarely go on the road usually
