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Blastapest2

Member
Hello to all.
Please don't be to abusive as this is my first thread.
I have a 1984 110 fitted with a 300tdi engine, Over about 7-10 days of normal use I loose some of the water from the header tank.
I have increased the fueling by 1/4 turn on the top screw(under seal on top cover of pump) and get a fair improvement in pulling power, If I use the extra performance when towing about 1 1/2 - 2 tons on my trailer I find the temperature guage climbs about 1/8 inch higher than normal and I use even more water.
I have an electric fan fitted which cuts in just passed the normal running point on the temp. guage, There is no sign of water in oil or vice versa. and when opening the header tank after 48 hours there is still some slight pressure inside which leads me to assume the head gasket is fine.
I think I will replace the radiator as I assume it's probably original but how can I tell if the water pump is ok?
Sorry it's a bit long-winded but I've tried to cover what I know so far !
Hears living in hope
Blastapest
 
Have a good look round the engine just after you've used the vehicle, coolant leaks can often be very hard to find esp. if the water leaks onto something hot and evaporates. I had a small leak on my 200tdi from somewhere that would have needed an engine stripdown to fix - stuck a bottle of holts radweld plus in the coolant and it cured it. Worth a go for £8
 
You might not even have a leak, you may be just loosing it through the filler cap when the temp/pressure is above normal.

You don't say how much you are loosing/filling up. Are we talking 100ml or 1 litre?

when did you last flush it out and change the coolant? check the thermostat while you are there.

G
 
Mine was the water pump gasket. Start your engine and look under your bonnet at the water pump. pull on the accelerator cable and see if there are any splashes of water from the gasket behind the pump.

Also, inspect the radiator fins for leaks.
 
Thanks for replies everyone, I'd already checked for leaks inc. P gasket etc. and have now changed rad. and cleaned out intercooler core and inside at same time.
Though I can't see anywhere on old rad that might have been a leak, water usage seems to have stopped !!
What I have noticed recently is a marked puff of blue smoke after coasting downhill then accelerating which looks like valve stem seals but I would have thought this would be a gradual small increase in smoke rather than a significant increase over a short time, Any ideas ?
Lastly has anyone fitted one of the modified later cylinder heads (increased cooling type) LDF500180 and if so, Was there any improvement ?
Many Thanks
Malc R
 
Blastapest2 said:
Thanks for replies everyone, I'd already checked for leaks inc. P gasket etc. and have now changed rad. and cleaned out intercooler core and inside at same time.
Though I can't see anywhere on old rad that might have been a leak, water usage seems to have stopped !!
What I have noticed recently is a marked puff of blue smoke after coasting downhill then accelerating which looks like valve stem seals but I would have thought this would be a gradual small increase in smoke rather than a significant increase over a short time, Any ideas ?
Lastly has anyone fitted one of the modified later cylinder heads (increased cooling type) LDF500180 and if so, Was there any improvement ?
Many Thanks
Malc R
Click to expand...

Smoke is probably down to increased fueling from the FIP adjustment you made

suew said:
Have only just seen this, flaming cheek :p:p:p

Obviously the OP decided against asking for my expert help and therefore still has a problem :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
Click to expand...

There's just no helping some people is there? :D
 
blue beasty said:
There's just no helping some people is there? :D
Click to expand...


No, but because I dont bear grudges :D

If the crankcase is overfilled even slightly, the forward attitude on the downhill will allow the crank to whip oil into the forward cylinder spigots and some of it will find its way into the combustion chambers. When the throttle plate is closed on coasting, the intake manifold vacuum rises, sucking on the cylinders when the intake valve opens, pulling oil past worn rings or in through worn valve guides and seals . The thing is, as it does this, the oil goes in the cylinder but does not burn because the injectors are shut off when coasting at speed, so when you hit the throttle, the injectors put in the fuel, and it burns together with the oil suddenly. I would do a compression test to see if the rings are sealing.
 
suew said:
No, but because I dont bear grudges :D

If the crankcase is overfilled even slightly, the forward attitude on the downhill will allow the crank to whip oil into the forward cylinder spigots and some of it will find its way into the combustion chambers. When the throttle plate is closed on coasting, the intake manifold vacuum rises, sucking on the cylinders when the intake valve opens, pulling oil past worn rings or in through worn valve guides and seals . The thing is, as it does this, the oil goes in the cylinder but does not burn because the injectors are shut off when coasting at speed, so when you hit the throttle, the injectors put in the fuel, and it burns together with the oil suddenly. I would do a compression test to see if the rings are sealing.
Click to expand...

i smell a dippypud google and paste:p:p
 
Thanks again for replies,
Why do some people bear grudges??? The smoke is unlikely to be from fuel changes as it is quite a recent problem and the fuel changes were done about 10 months ago!
The oil level is kept just below top mark on dipstick and never needs topping up between changes. The problem can happen either going down hill or on the level so I wouldn't have thought there would be enough oil pushed forward to cause an issue with crank whipping it up more than normal !
Any thoughts on changing to the LDF 500180 cylinder head?
Thanks Again
Malc R
 
Hello Again
Hopefully final post on this one, Fitted new LDF 500180 head from "Autopost" water loss cured, smoke gone, all smiling bar wallet.
bfn
Blastapest
 
I remember a tool we used to use in the garage and it screwed into the header tank and you pumped it up to pressurise the cooling system and it showed up the leaks.

Got to be worth a purchase as i'm sure they don't cost much.
 
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