LR-hobbs · 2025-09-05T19:37:24+0100

Hello everyone AGAIN

I am currently stuck waiting for the RAC to arrive, as I went to have my key battery changed, once changed the car would not open attempted to resync the key nothing worked.

Phoned home someone brought me the second key and that wouldn't work either.

EKA code wouldn't activate or enter , keeps coming up engine disabled.

I am lost for words.

pwood999 · 2025-09-05T19:50:28+0100

Latch faulty or EKA wrong / disabled ? Try entering the EKA using Nanocom ?

marjon · 2025-09-05T20:31:55+0100

What year/engine
If the car is not asking for EKA it don’t need it…..yet.
It’s a sync issue.

J

LR-hobbs · 2025-09-05T21:01:01+0100

marjon said:
What year/engine
If the car is not asking for EKA it don’t need it…..yet.
It’s a sync issue.

J

1999 4.0 Thor

LR-hobbs · 2025-09-05T21:23:22+0100

pwood999 said:
Latch faulty or EKA wrong / disabled ? Try entering the EKA using Nanocom ?

I would if I had a nano com, literally alls i have done is have a key battery changed.
Does anyone have the correct key sync procedure?

marjon · 2025-09-06T07:05:01+0100

There are 2 ways.

Key in ignition pos 2 then press the unlock button

Or

Key in door lock door shut turn to lock press the lock button, turn to unlock press the unlock button. (maybe unlock first then lock can never remmeber)

J

Rubberknees · 2025-09-06T07:23:42+0100

Any one in your area with a nanocom? Have a look on Landyzone map

Datatek · 2025-09-06T07:38:31+0100

pwood999 said:
Latch faulty or EKA wrong / disabled ? Try entering the EKA using Nanocom ?

If EKA is disabled, it is never needed, the car can be opened with the key. If the immobiliser is disabled, it can also be started with the key.
The OP say's "locked out" so presumably he hasn't tried the key in the lock.
The fob battery has to be changed in less than 2 minutes to avoid loss of sync. The OP say's he took the FOB to have the battery changed rather than DIY so maybe the change was not quick enough.

Rubberknees · 2025-09-06T07:53:20+0100

A method from a dealer if you have correct EKA

LR-hobbs · 2025-09-06T08:13:13+0100

Datatek said:
If EKA is disabled, it is never needed, the car can be opened with the key. If the immobiliser is disabled, it can also be started with the key.
The OP say's "locked out" so presumably he hasn't tried the key in the lock.
The fob battery has to be changed in less than 2 minutes to avoid loss of sync. The OP say's he took the FOB to have the battery changed rather than DIY so maybe the change was not quick enough.

We did try the key in the lock and managed to open the vehicle that got us the message engine disabled anytime we tried to start it , which provided one potential reason, the key was extremely spongy in the door lock and upon entering the EKA code it wouldn't recognise any input, that coupled with the handle and lock casing you can move it up and down , very loose.

LR-hobbs · 2025-09-06T08:30:56+0100

marjon said:
What year/engine
If the car is not asking for EKA it don’t need it…..yet.
It’s a sync issue.

J

This type of fault is a first for me.

But this is definitely a sync fault, not sure why my spare key now doesn't work either, we ended up with key code lock out error message.

pwood999 · 2025-09-06T09:00:48+0100

When you get "Keycode Lockout", you need to wait at least 30mins for that to disappear first. The message means it's ignoring the EKA. Then when it's ready it normally says "Engine Disabled - Enter Keycode".

Doing key sync in the door lock needs the latch CDL & Keyswitch microswitches in good working order. As you can open the door, take the doorcard off & check why the linkages are loose. This might be why it's not syncing ?

Also unless you're in a quiet RF area, the RF antenna probably needs to be connected so it can receive the code during sync.

Datatek · 2025-09-06T09:15:16+0100

RF from such things as Taxi transmitters and other sources can stop he FOB working, Had this happen on a motorcycle, push down the road a few hundred metres and it all worked. I have also had this happen with my P38 in a multi story car park festooned with radio aerials which is why I now have EKA and immobiliser disabled. Luckily I have diagnostics so was able to sort it out on the spot.

LR-hobbs · 2025-09-06T09:41:24+0100

Datatek said:
RF from such things as Taxi transmitters and other sources can stop he FOB working, Had this happen on a motorcycle, push down the road a few hundred metres and it all worked. I have also had this happen with my P38 in a multi story car park festooned with radio aerials which is why I now have EKA and immobiliser disabled. Luckily I have diagnostics so was able to sort it out on the spot.

I think it's almost impossible to own this car without diagnostics.
Otherwise they are un runnable

LR-hobbs · 2025-09-06T09:45:25+0100

Datatek said:
RF from such things as Taxi transmitters and other sources can stop he FOB working, Had this happen on a motorcycle, push down the road a few hundred metres and it all worked. I have also had this happen with my P38 in a multi story car park festooned with radio aerials which is why I now have EKA and immobiliser disabled. Luckily I have diagnostics so was able to sort it out on the spot.

How do you get those disabled , is it a becm out job and have it sent away?

Datatek · 2025-09-06T16:23:45+0100

LR-hobbs said:
How do you get those disabled , is it a becm out job and have it sent away?

10 minutes at most with diagnostics. I never leave home in a P38 without diagnostics in the car.

Datatek · 2025-09-06T16:25:16+0100

LR-hobbs said:
I think it's almost impossible to own this car without diagnostics.
Otherwise they are un runnable

I would agree with that. Even so, when all is sorted they will un for fairly long periods without trouble.

LR-hobbs · 2025-09-06T17:22:28+0100

Datatek said:
I would agree with that. Even so, when all is sorted they will un for fairly long periods without trouble.

I have just taken a look at the drivers door latch , now someone has definitely been in here before all the foam is taped up and ripped.
The plug coming off the actuator is black but the connector is white? Has this been replaced with the wrong door actuator.

Is there any other way to tell which ones for mine ?

LR-hobbs · 2025-09-06T17:24:15+0100

Datatek said:
I would agree with that. Even so, when all is sorted they will un for fairly long periods without trouble.

Edit:
There is also paint marks on the latch , typical of a breakers yard replacement.

Datatek · 2025-09-06T17:28:56+0100

LR-hobbs said:
I have just taken a look at the drivers door latch , now someone has definitely been in here before all the foam is taped up and ripped.
The plug coming off the actuator is black but the connector is white? Has this been replaced with the wrong door actuator.

Is there any other way to tell which ones for mine ?

I wouldn't worry about the colour of the connectors if they fit together correctly, may just down to year of production.
I believe that the MG TF fits and is cheaper than the JLR parts, others will confirm. Never had to replace my door lock assemblies as I repaired them.

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