C

chris46

New Member
Hi,

I need to fix my Discovery's leaky rear diff pan and was hoping to get some pointers.
I was hoping to repair it without having to drop the axle because I have injured my spine and leg falling down a bloody manhole of all things.
I am after a fix that will last until the summer when I should be more mobile and the weather's better.
Also is it possible to fit a new pan without dropping the axle and when fitting do I need to remove the old one or does the new one fit over it? Can I stick weld it? .
Thank you in advance.
 
remove halfshafts.
remove diff
wash inside & outside of pan with petrol
fill hole both sides with metal mastic (Like a rivet)
leave 24 hours
rebuild
refill with oil
use


welding a new one is very fiddly due to cast pan housing. heat transfer doesnt make welding easy.
 
Thank you. I will have a go at it tomorrow and maybe try patching the holes with metal plate. If I make it worse I only live 10 miles from Famous Four in Louth and I have been told its not that expensive to have a new one fitted. I once fixed a petrol filler neck with Chem metal and it lasted for years never leaking again.
May I also ask if a knackered front diff would only whine under load when the power is on? .it is whinning and it sounds like its from the front diff not the gearbox.
Thanks again
 
chris46 said:
Thank you. I will have a go at it tomorrow and maybe try patching the holes with metal plate. If I make it worse I only live 10 miles from Famous Four in Louth and I have been told its not that expensive to have a new one fitted. I once fixed a petrol filler neck with Chem metal and it lasted for years never leaking again.
May I also ask if a knackered front diff would only whine under load when the power is on? .it is whinning and it sounds like its from the front diff not the gearbox.
Thanks again
Click to expand...

its most common for diff to whine on over run,remove front prop and take it for a run in diff lock ,it might be simpler to give danny at amazon a ring for a price on another case
 
I used chemical metal on mine.it worked really well but make sure you clean it with a grinding disc.or sanding disc.
 
Welding a new 1 is a nightmare.dont patch it up as the metal sounds porous so will juzt burn more holes in it.
 
Better off welding on a HD diff pan imo :D The standard ones is crap.





All made from 6mm steel so should hold up to some abuse. :)
 
jamesmartin said:
it would be interesting to see if axle is still straight after all that
Click to expand...

Should be. Most of the welding was done on the bench.

I tacked it all up on the axle then removed it to do most of the welds on the pan. Then welded round the outside to the axle itself. Even then only layed a small weld at opposite sides and left it to cool for a while before i welded a bit more.

I'll do another soon and take plenty of measurements to see if it does warp the axle at all with my method.
 
but it looks nice..


I welded some brackets on the outer edges of a ford anglia axle used for my F2 stock car,
it ended up with a bit of neggie camber when it was fitted to the stockcar..
great in practice, twisted the half shafts in use though....
live and learn eh..
 
robbh said:
Should be. Most of the welding was done on the bench.

I tacked it all up on the axle then removed it to do most of the welds on the pan. Then welded round the outside to the axle itself. Even then only layed a small weld at opposite sides and left it to cool for a while before i welded a bit more.

I'll do another soon and take plenty of measurements to see if it does warp the axle at all with my method.
Click to expand...

its all on one side you cant even up the warping
 
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