Ideally you want a gauge with say a max of 2 or 3 bar range as the difference between .8 bar and 1 bar boost could explain your problem.

Having said that I am at .5 bar at 110 kph on a flat road.

An egt gauge would also help greatly in this logic maze

In the absence of that maybe do a run on your motorway at night with a buddy driving behind you as then it will be easy to see if your a smoking at the 60 max that you getting - in which case fuel delivery isn't the problem

Also try and see if while sitting at this 60 max whether a couple of blips on the throttle doesn't cure it even for a couple of hundred meters at a time. Not sure what road in problem solving that might lead to though
 
Pressure looks fine. Thats not been tweaked.
Is the boost pin seized?

Could you rig up a small fuel tank under the bonnet direct to lift pump.will rule out blockages from main tank.

I hate these little faults which are hard to trace
I'll need to get the top off the injection pump and check as I think that's all it can be now. I'll blow through the fuel lines and make sure they're clear, after that there shouldn't be any problem or blockage right up to the filter so the injection pump is the last thing to check
 
Ideally you want a gauge with say a max of 2 or 3 bar range as the difference between .8 bar and 1 bar boost could explain your problem.

Having said that I am at .5 bar at 110 kph on a flat road.

An egt gauge would also help greatly in this logic maze

In the absence of that maybe do a run on your motorway at night with a buddy driving behind you as then it will be easy to see if your a smoking at the 60 max that you getting - in which case fuel delivery isn't the problem

Also try and see if while sitting at this 60 max whether a couple of blips on the throttle doesn't cure it even for a couple of hundred meters at a time. Not sure what road in problem solving that might lead to though
I know, that's just what I had to hand but it's still given me an idea of what boost im getting and it looks decent enough. I've tried blipping the throttle, I've tried flooring it for a bit but still nothing. I don't know why it suddenly started working great then went back to crap unless the boost pin is seized and needs freed up, I'll need to get in about that and check it as it's the last thing I can think of now
 
Removed the cover off the top of the injection pump and the boost diaphragm is immaculate with no holes or splits whatsoever. It did have oil on top however but I suspect this is from years ago when my head gasket failed and the engine ran away on its own oil. I cleaned everywhere else out but never considered that. I thought the pin felt a little bit sticky when I was moving the throttle so gave it a spray with wd40 and freed it up. Took it out a drive and nope, still absolutely gutless and losing power on the slightest hills. I've determined that there is nothing wrong with fuel delivery right up to the injection pump so next port of call is getting the injectors out, tested and cleaned I guess
 
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Back to this ****show. I ran some diesel purge through it, it didn't like it at first but it did end up drinking it all like a good little engine should. Took it out a drive and it started off well, got up to 65mph quite happily and fairly well, cruised along the motorway at this speed with absolutely no issues, came off the motorway and turned around and came back on. Straight away it took much much longer to even get up to 60 than at the start of the drive and it was already lacking pull. As soon as I started to hit a small incline I could feel it failing to keep up speed so just came off the motorway. What adjustments can make to the pump to increase fuelling and power under load. I'm more than happy with the boost and low end power it's got around town type driving, it's just motorway and hills it needs adjusted for. Failing that I'm going to have to admit defeat and see if a land rover specialist near me can figure out wtfs going on.
 
for extra fuel,the boost pin can be played with. Look on the tube how this is done.
Make sure you mark every thing incase it does not work
 
for extra fuel,the boost pin can be played with. Look on the tube how this is done.
Make sure you mark every thing incase it does not work
I know you can adjust the diaphragm setting and star wheel for low end boost, my diaphragm was already set to what most people seem to go for I.e about 1o'clock position. I don't need any low end boost, it's just top end im after but I wasn't sure if those could just be done using the fuel screw. I'll have a look about as most things I read last night were "this is what settings I use they may not work for you" kinda thing.
 
Thing is adding extra fuel without extra air will only create a serious amount of heat . An egt gauge is a must if you start playing with that fuelling.

It is a nut on the back of the pump - probably has some sort of anti tampering wire on it -

Loosen nut and turn screw with a screwdriver clockwise as you look at it. from the drivers seat.

Normally they are at the 12 o clock position and a turn to the 3 o'clock would be a lot so maybe somewhere in between

That generates serious heat - like 700 deg plus and very quickly as well.

But worth a try for the "run" as you describe it and 1 minutes work
 
I have a D1 and by removing the aircon belt tensioner I can get a thin long 10 mm socket onto the 3 bolts holding the cam belt pulley to the injector pump. By loosening the three bolts I can change the timing just enough to give me more low down power or high end power at the loss of power at the opposite ends.

That made a big difference in performance but also made the engine "ping" like a petrol engine with the wrong grade fuel and so I settled on a mid point
 
1 other thing worth trying as it is easy to do is to disconnect the rubber pipe going to the waste gate and blank it off. I did that using a short bolt that screwed in nicely and some wire as a clamp - that was 7 years ago
 

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