monkfish24

monkfish24

Well-Known Member
Well aftust a little bit of looking, I've bought a 3 door freelander 1 in blue. Not bad looking, just it has no engine! All the 4wd is in tact, the chassis looks reasonable and the interior is actually very clean. It was owned by a woman, the HG failed, she sent it off with a second engine, the garage screwed up the second engine so 6 months later, she finally got it back, which is where it is today.
$_1.JPG

So I bought another 5Dr for the engine and parts, as you never know what's missing from projects. I bought a 5Dr but again, it has all the 4wd in tact. The engine has had a HGF but its nothing I can't sort out.
$_58.JPG
 
Turboman said:
What went wrong? :confused:

You used to have a real landrover, in fact you have had several real landrovers!
Click to expand...
I got back on Friday, i now I have three months off, I promise this time 100% that I will be up to see you for a brew!

I am going to strip the chassis down on the 109 and have it repaired and galvanised so I'm getting a little run around. I didn't want to buy something that I'd lose money on so I am using the freelander as a fixer upper to sell for a little profit or break even on my running costs.
 
monkfish24 said:
I got back on Friday, i now I have three months off, I promise this time 100% that I will be up to see you for a brew!

I am going to strip the chassis down on the 109 and have it repaired and galvanised so I'm getting a little run around. I didn't want to buy something that I'd lose money on so I am using the freelander as a fixer upper to sell for a little profit or break even on my running costs.
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Thought you had been avoiding us in case we found out! :D

Are you sure that needs galvanising? looked years in it from the pics?

Best of luck, have to say I have not known many turn a profit on freelanders, but fingers crossed.
 
Well i
Turboman said:
Thought you had been avoiding us in case we found out! :D

Are you sure that needs galvanising? looked years in it from the pics?

Best of luck, have to say I have not known many turn a profit on freelanders, but fingers crossed.
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Ha ha no, I've got rotation with work now, so three months home, three months work.

I fitted parabolic last time I was home and the rear suspension front hanger on the drivers side started trying to part from the chassis!!! There are a few other patches which are really poorly repaired with massive blobs of weld and I'd like to convert the gearbox crossmember to be removable. Then while it's all off, I can sort out the bulkhead. None of it is horrendous, just starting to show signs so worth nipping in the bud.

Well I've paid 400 for both land rovers so it may not be ok :)
 
Good luck with the Freelanders. No reason why you shouldn't make a few quid on the 2 door or at least cover your expenses. It looks like the 2 door is 02 or 03 and the 4 door is early 01 so not sure if you'll need to swap ECU etc too. I don't know if the 01 had a dizzy but the 02 car would have had 2 coil packs. Not sure what other differences there would be.
I made money on the 02 K series I bought with suspect HGF but it turned out the HG was fine so I only had to do cheap fixes to get it on the road.
If I was doing another K series HG this is the kit I'd use. £90 with the promo sale25
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/L...836205c3fca464a15965d2e950991590457b40&000174
 
Many thanks Ali,

I should make a small profit, freelanders tend to sell quite nicely here in Cornwall, to be honest, anything with a long MOT sells easily.
Thanks for the heads up on the head gasket kit, should be everything I need in there.
I'm assuming if the two engines are different, I'm not going to end up changing the looms over?
 
monkfish24 said:
I fitted parabolic last time I was home and the rear suspension front hanger on the drivers side started trying to part from the chassis!!! There are a few other patches which are really poorly repaired with massive blobs of weld and I'd like to convert the gearbox crossmember to be removable. Then while it's all off, I can sort out the bulkhead. None of it is horrendous, just starting to show signs so worth nipping in the bud.
Click to expand...

Why not spend a couple of hours cutting some plates and welding it up. Then paint and protect it up nicely, you will get another ten years, at very little cost.

And I don't know what the point of changing the crossmember is, series always had fixed crossmember, it is no problem. Never removed the one on my 90 since I have had it.

Rechassis is a huge amount of work and will involve a lot of extra expense with all the bits that wont undo, or that you see are worn on removal.
 
monkfish24 said:
Many thanks Ali,

I should make a small profit, freelanders tend to sell quite nicely here in Cornwall, to be honest, anything with a long MOT sells easily.
Thanks for the heads up on the head gasket kit, should be everything I need in there.
I'm assuming if the two engines are different, I'm not going to end up changing the looms over?
Click to expand...

There are a few differences between some engine years. All are sensor related so not really an issue. If you get stuck, give me a shout. I know my way around the K series;)
 
Turboman said:
Why not spend a couple of hours cutting some plates and welding it up. Then paint and protect it up nicely, you will get another ten years, at very little cost.

And I don't know what the point of changing the crossmember is, series always had fixed crossmember, it is no problem. Never removed the one on my 90 since I have had it.

Rechassis is a huge amount of work and will involve a lot of extra expense with all the bits that wont undo, or that you see are worn on removal.
Click to expand...
I'm still in-between this and a re chassis. The rear crossmember has been re welded at some point, except it's been done wonky!

I'm not short of time so that's no worry, costs I do have to keep an eye on obviously but I'd like to do this to keep so I'd like to do it so it lasts.

I suppose the other option is to do as you say but just take the rear tub off to align it all properly..?

The other thing is, I can't weld for ****, maybe I could use the scrap landy for practice :O
 
Nodge68 said:
There are a few differences between some engine years. All are sensor related so not really an issue. If you get stuck, give me a shout. I know my way around the K series;)
Click to expand...
Many thanks Nodge, thats fantastic and I may take you up on that at some point.

The two door literally has nothing left in the engine bay, so it will probably a lift out of the four door, then straight into the three door. Although I'm assuming the newer ancillaries would be more worthwhile fitting?
 
monkfish24 said:
Many thanks Ali,

I should make a small profit, freelanders tend to sell quite nicely here in Cornwall, to be honest, anything with a long MOT sells easily.
Thanks for the heads up on the head gasket kit, should be everything I need in there.
I'm assuming if the two engines are different, I'm not going to end up changing the looms over?
Click to expand...
That kit doesn't include head bolts. If yours are OEM and within tolerances you can reuse them otherwise here is another kit which includes bolts.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections...ayen-bw750-elastomer-head-gasket-set-full-kit
This guy specialises in MGRover parts and gets a good reputation for quality.
 
monkfish24 said:
Many thanks Nodge, thats fantastic and I may take you up on that at some point.

The two door literally has nothing left in the engine bay, so it will probably a lift out of the four door, then straight into the three door. Although I'm assuming the newer ancillaries would be more worthwhile fitting?
Click to expand...
The Y and 03 should be interchangeable pretty easily. Most stuff is the same. A quick chassis number check will confirm this. The 1A and 3A should be pretty much interchangeable. There may be some slight sensor differences, but I think they are all the same in reality.
 
Welcome aboard! I got a fixer-upper FL1 as well, and enjoying the rebuild of the engine at the moment. Unfortuantely mine had also suffered a HGF (expected), but had also toasted the cylinder head (which wasn't expected!)

Once you get the head off, look at the cylinder head quite carefully. There will be rings around the combustion chambers that, if you can catch your fingernail in them, is likely to mean that the cylinder head will need replacing. Fingers crossed yours will be okay!

Alibro said:
That kit doesn't include head bolts. If yours are OEM and within tolerances you can reuse them otherwise here is another kit which includes bolts.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections...ayen-bw750-elastomer-head-gasket-set-full-kit
This guy specialises in MGRover parts and gets a good reputation for quality.
Click to expand...

I used DMGRS for my gasket set. Came will almost all the gaskets needed. Very pleased with the price too. :)

Regarding the engine: if the donor is a 2001 car (which it will be on a "Y" plate), then you'll have no problems with the looms or the ECU (MEMS3). It will all be plug and play.

Hopefully you have the 3-door's original ECU? It'll be tied into the Lucas 7AS immobiliser. Otherwise swap over both the ECU and the 7AS together as a pair.

Have fun! :D
 
monkfish24 said:
I'm still in-between this and a re chassis. The rear crossmember has been re welded at some point, except it's been done wonky!

I'm not short of time so that's no worry, costs I do have to keep an eye on obviously but I'd like to do this to keep so I'd like to do it so it lasts.

I suppose the other option is to do as you say but just take the rear tub off to align it all properly..?

The other thing is, I can't weld for ****, maybe I could use the scrap landy for practice :O
Click to expand...


Let me come over and have a look at it, unless it has a ticket, in which case, bring it over.

If it aint too bad, I might even weld it for you, if you pay for the gas and wire. Not cutting the plates and doing the grinding, though, you can do that.

Rear xmember is good enough if you can bolt the body on it.

I am pretty busy until the 28th, give us a shout after! :)
 
Turbo, I would be more than happy to cut and grind if you are happy to weld, always more than happy to pay for time as well considering you will be saving me money on buying a complete chassis!
No ticket but I'm sure we could find a way to move it when the freelander is legal
 
monkfish24 said:
Turbo, I would be more than happy to cut and grind if you are happy to weld, always more than happy to pay for time as well considering you will be saving me money on buying a complete chassis!
No ticket but I'm sure we could find a way to move it when the freelander is legal
Click to expand...

If it isn't a huge job, we could do it anywhere with 240v supply. :)

Wait til the freelander is running, could be a long wait, and it isn't capable of towing a series on a trailer anyway. :rolleyes:

I will message you after the 28th! ;)
 
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