andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member

• Tuesday at 18:30

• #21

The immobiliser module can be removed with 1/4 inch flexi drive and socket 10mm, I think, with the radio out and, on a facelift, the mug holders removed.

No need to take dash out. That is a huge job.

 

A

Alex1000

Active Member

• Yesterday at 08:05

• #22

Thats interesting. Have the radio out and can get at one of the nuts, but other was going to need the dash out. Cup holders sound hopeful. maybe I will get the old Gal back on the road shortly

I was going to go with a long bar and hammer, and break the old module, as don't need it, But worried about damaging the loom.

Will try that this weekend. Going through the cup holders.

 

Freddie17

Can’t reMember

Full Member

• Yesterday at 09:42

• #23

Alex1000 said:

I was going to go with a long bar and hammer

Click to expand...

Please don’t

 

F

freelounger

Member

• Yesterday at 11:41

• #24

I have seen on ebay ECUs for the TD4 advertised as having IMMO Delete. Does that actually work with the freelander? If it did, it would solve your problem.

 

A

Alex1000

Active Member

• Yesterday at 12:51

• #25

freelounger said:

I have seen on ebay ECUs for the TD4 advertised as having IMMO Delete. Does that actually work with the freelander? If it did, it would solve your problem.

Click to expand...

Never seen that, wish I had, Kinda commited to the replace all bits, as need new locks on doors, boot, petrol cap, etc etc.
to quote Mangus Magnuson (showing my age) "ive started, so i'll finish"

 

F

freelounger

Member

• Yesterday at 13:04

• #26

For others in the same boat, perhaps the knowledgeable amongst us would take a peek and see what you think. It's a bit of money. How does it compare to buying and replacing everything you mentioned?
item 115511977833

 

A

Alex1000

Active Member

• Yesterday at 13:17

• #27

All the locks, ECU, Module for Immobilizer etc, cost £100 2nd hand at breakers. My time...., priceless, Sore head...free.