Van der Valk wasn’t too bad I have to say. All the old stuffs the best.
I thought the recent ones were boring.
I have yet to look at the new battery charger I bought , it may even do 24v come to think of it! I have only used it once, a coupla years ago!
Where is BAB?
Do you have a decent Michelin Atlas?
We use it to plan routes and swear by them. A 5 is ridiculously lenient, my Disco 2 diesel is a 5!!
Yep, it is all mad! But do it quick before they abandon all stickers over here!!
Funnily W's Pluriel 04 MY runs on it and it says so int handbook. It hain't missed a beat on it.
Ta mate, well I got some of that!!To get 24vdc buy yerself a small psu
RS PRO 24W Plug-In AC/DC Adapter 24V dc Output, 1A Output | RS
uk.rs-online.com
And an inline fuse so yer dun't blow yerself up.
To test a relay yer can measure the coil resistance while in circuit. Uvver components in parallel will alter the measured value burrits only an indication ovvit being open circuit or not. So it be ok. When taken out yer can power the coil and measure resistance across the contacts. The 'normally open' will be short circuit to the 'common', when powered. But relay contacts fail wiv pitting and carbon marks if swiching a lot ov power or have hadda lorra use.. So resistance ain't a good enuff test to find a volt drop that will only show when passing several amps across the contacts.
Removing components wiv a manual solder pump ain't easy. Especially if the pcb oles are tight on the pins and its a chuncky relay which soaks in the heat. Easiler to cut the track to the coil so yer can energise the relay in circuit wiv out removing it.
Scratch the track on both sides ov said cut and blob some solder accrossit to rejoin again.
To replace caps yer need the correct capacitance, volts and type. It should say on the side. Like 10nF 50v. Type yer know visually like electrolittic or tanterlum etc. Both spelt wrong assits fred rules spellin dun't count. Some caps are polarised.
Its a lorra faffing about just to save 200 sovs. But it will give us many weeks ov laffs.
If the pcb receives a signal from the main controller to switch said relay, why not just poke yer own version ov said signal in, and measure the relay contacts via the power connecters. Be easier.
The £200 solution would be cheap, ugly and involve a lot of faffing around , the "next up" solution would cost at least €585.
Compared to the €60 I have just lashed out on tools and capacitors, to be delivered soemtime next week.
I had a heck of a job sourcing the exact same make and model type of one sort of Cap and the other is exactly the same Mfarads and voltage, as well as size and distance between pins. Both off ManoMano. Pack of 10 caps, €1.5. delivery €9.5! Just realised I needed 2 per stat. Poop!
Still I don't think they'll all be gone, once I get my cap meter I'll know which ones go, physically considering the small ones are cylindrical they look OK, but yep that don't mean much.
The stat's PCB is powered up, the temp sender actions the lickle relay on the board which then sends power back to the consumer unit on which each individual circuit breaker is situated to tell it to close and send massive power to each heating pad. They are designed to take a lot of current as many houses don't have this system and all the power passes through the stat.
I could get a 24 VDC psu for about €20, more or less, but for just this one job?
I too have wondered if the problem could be down to dirty points on the relays. As the relay is stuck so closely to the PCB and I cannot tell which connection does what, I'd have a job putting power across the coil or even testing it for resistance.
I'd have to take one off then open it up to look at, which I might do if nec.
I'll keep you all posted as I know my DIY is good laughs value for you all!!!
And how many peeps do you know entertaining you with two different systems on two different houses???
I should start my own YouTube channel!
Quite rare now I would imagine.
