dag019 said:

separate thread here: LINK but copied onto this thread as well to keep everything together

I thought I already had a thread on this but cannot find it.

I currently have nothing so have bought 347844 from YRM and am following the below instructions form my parts manual for retrofitting seatbelts to the rear:

I am very happy with how to fit the bracket to the body, it bolts to the existing bolt through the floor, c-pillar, and front floor support. The top bolt then needs drilling to mount the top of it. Instruction 3.3 is drilling the hole for the seatbelt to mount to. This only mentions the lower hole needing drilling, which makes sense as there is only one part of the seatbelt that needs mounting. This would give the setup pictures below (pic form google) which I think is correct and what I want:

However the bracket also has an upper seatbelt fixing point seen here in the picture of the bracket, and seen here in a picture from gwyn lewis mud shield advert being used for something with a bolt in it:

Can anyone confirm what the upper mount if for, and if I need it for anything on my setup. I want to get the wheel are sound proofed and the brackets bolted in before fitting the tub to the vehicle and if needed will need to drill it out before soundproofing.

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Many thanks to @bluedog333. I have now fitted and soundproofed mine along with the seat brackets. Now need to order the seatbelt mounting bolts and see if I can find the seatbelt I thought I had.

UA productive day. Bit there’s no going back now. I just hope this was a good idea!

The moving it on a sankey was Definitly a little top heavy. That might not have been the best idea but it did the job and wasn’t going very far.

dag019 said:

UA productive day. Bit there’s no going back now. I just hope this was a good idea!

The moving it on a sankey was Definitly a little top heavy. That might not have been the best idea but it did the job and wasn’t going very far.

View attachment 330726

View attachment 330727

View attachment 330728

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As the saying goes, if it don’t look right, move it at night!

Knappster said:

As the saying goes, if it don’t look right, move it at night!

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Was less than a mile and is all on sleepy rural roads. I had considered doing it the other way around and driving the “chassis cab” down to it, couple of bolts to “secure” and then driving it back.

Top of the chassis covered in dinitrol



Correct mid crossmember fitted after everyone pointing out that the one on the station wagon donor was a dog home job. Along with the front brackets.



Rear body is on. And doors loosely fitted to make is “waterproof” as it is supposed to rain tonight. The body is just resting in place currently as is the roof as had help with heavy lifting this evening. Tomorrow is the bolting things in place. But already have an issue that the rear crossmember brackets do not all line up with the body holes. Have 5 of the 10 line up.

dag019 said:

Top of the chassis covered in dinitrol

View attachment 330784

Correct mid crossmember fitted after everyone pointing out that the one on the station wagon donor was a dog home job. Along with the front brackets.

View attachment 330785

Rear body is on. And doors loosely fitted to make is “waterproof” as it is supposed to rain tonight. The body is just resting in place currently as is the roof as had help with heavy lifting this evening. Tomorrow is the bolting things in place. But already have an issue that the rear crossmember brackets do not all line up with the body holes. Have 5 of the 10 line up.

View attachment 330786

View attachment 330787

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Looking good.

I rather depressing day in terms of visual progress. My 110 looks exactly the same as it did at the end of yesterday! The only difference is now the body is actually bolted down rather than just resting on the chassis.

I do however have a small issue posted on a separate thread as well (LINK). The rear door gap on the station wagon tub appears to have splayed outwards. Yesterday when just resting on the chassis the rear door catch was about 20mm away from the end of the latch towards the centre of the vehicle. I strapped the tub together to close the gap before bolting the roof on which then when released has made a difference. But the cap is still about 10mm wider than it is on the hardtop body. This means the catch lines up with the end of the latch not the latch itself.



I know I can space the latch off the body to move it over so it engages. But is there anyway of closing up the top of the tub so things not necessary?
The gap on the hardtop is 915mm at the top of the tub. The station wagon is 925mm. I know Land Rover tolerances are generous. But that seems like a lot.


Tomorrows plan is to reconnect the all the wiring, refit the headlining and the seats, fit seatbelts and get the side door latches in place.

This leads to another question. I have series door locks on the front so know I will need to drill holes to mount the latch on the b-pillar. The second row doors I have anti-loose catches. Do these mount in the same place as the one peice door latch. Or will I need to drill the c-pillar as well?

dag019 said:

I rather depressing day in terms of visual progress. My 110 looks exactly the same as it did at the end of yesterday! The only difference is now the body is actually bolted down rather than just resting on the chassis.

I do however have a small issue posted on a separate thread as well (LINK). The rear door gap on the station wagon tub appears to have splayed outwards. Yesterday when just resting on the chassis the rear door catch was about 20mm away from the end of the latch towards the centre of the vehicle. I strapped the tub together to close the gap before bolting the roof on which then when released has made a difference. But the cap is still about 10mm wider than it is on the hardtop body. This means the catch lines up with the end of the latch not the latch itself.

View attachment 330834

I know I can space the latch off the body to move it over so it engages. But is there anyway of closing up the top of the tub so things not necessary?
The gap on the hardtop is 915mm at the top of the tub. The station wagon is 925mm. I know Land Rover tolerances are generous. But that seems like a lot.


Tomorrows plan is to reconnect the all the wiring, refit the headlining and the seats, fit seatbelts and get the side door latches in place.

This leads to another question. I have series door locks on the front so know I will need to drill holes to mount the latch on the b-pillar. The second row doors I have anti-loose catches. Do these mount in the same place as the one peice door latch. Or will I need to drill the c-pillar as well?

Click to expand...

For now to get the rear door to latch so I can have it back on the road tomorrow I have spaced out the catch. It only took 4 washers so has reduced again. But is still more than I would like. Will see if it settles any more once given a drive.

Couple of other questions for anyone who knows. I am using the original rear door that came with the station wagon. This needs replacing. What do people recommend? My door bottoms were galv frame from SP. Is that the best bet for a rear door?

The rear door off my hardtop is in good condition but I want to keep that with the hard top as it is matched up to the tub and the swing away.

Let’s play spot the difference.

Body swap is complete and the 110 is back on the road.

Need to sort the rear passenger seatbelt out as the floor needs repairing and I need to buy another rear seatbelt.

Need to find where I put the front passenger seatbelt plug. It is in the garage somewhere from when I refurbished the toe plate.

Need to fit the rear seats.

That will give me a functioning station wagon. The to do list is then more upgrading and accessorising

Need to order new front seatbelts as they are a little worse for wear. They might be on my Christmas list!

Need a dog guard, some stable matting, and some tie down points for the rear load area (why were these not fitted as standard!)

And as some of the keen eyed amongst you may have spotted I need a rear door as am using the one from the station wagon. My other doors as SP galv frame jobs. Are they the best for a new rear door as well?

While I am doing the finishing touches to the 110 on the road. I will also need to fit the hardtop rear body to the other vehicle so it is complete again and a bit more weather proof. But that will have to wait until I can round up some volenteers to help it it again!

Couple of finishing touches this morning. As off to the continent for the Christmas markets tomorrow for a week.

Fitted the rear seats, no point having the extra door if you do not have seats. The long term plan will be to fit exmoor trim high backs. But they are rather expensive!



I repaired the floor around the seatbelt attachment with some 3mm aluminium plate riveted and seam sealed into place. I think without this the YRM bolt tube would have sat proud of the floor, so a win win. I have bitten the bottle and ordered new seatbelts all around. As they are a safety item and I am dubious of the existing ones it seemed silly to be an area to try and save money!



I then took the opportunity to clean the rear interior, and remind myself that I hate painting. Coat of primer on everything. With the plan being to have the floor and wheel boxes black with the sides red (to match the capping). Will hopefully get a coat on tonight and tomorrow before I leave so it has a week to fully cure in the cold weather before I am home.

Looking good.

Bit of an update to this, my 110 (red) now as a station wagon is perfuming flawlessly as expected. I still prefer the hard top body but this is the sacrifices you make by having children. There has been more times that I have had to use the trailer as something will not find in the back but that is manageable.

This thread will now revert back to focussing on the rebuild of the white 110.

I bought a rough shape but salvageable station wagon tub for £100 so the long term plan will be to rebuild the white 110 back into a station wagon. The short term plan is just to bolt the hard top body in place so the vehicle is a complete vehicle (everything is still just resting on the chassis) as time when you have a toddler is in short supply. in order to do this I need to buy and fit the front tub rebuild panels form YRM.

The station wagon tub needs a full floor and all of the crossmembers replacing but the capping's are in good condition and it has all of the seat brackets already fitted! Most of the tub rebuild I have just done with the old body now on the red 110. However on that I did not replace the whole floor. This is something I will need to look into in more detail as to the order to do things, because if I remove the floors, the top hats, and the crossmembers, there is nothing holding the two sides of the tub together any more. I assume i need to do one job as a time but need to work out which one needs doing first! I know @bluedog333 you said you had done this recently. What order did you do things?

I have also sourced a 300Tdi engine for the white 110 to replace the TD currently fitted which the previous owner confirmed was wrecked when they sold it to the garage!

I have a separate thread on it here: LINK but will duplicate the post to keep things together one this thread.

I know this has been done before and there is lots of information out there with the glencoyne being the definitive guide for this (link)

With many thanks going to @RustyDefender I have a 300tdi engine to fit to my sons '88 110 (Thread link), and he couldn't be happier with his new engine.

The 300tdi was fitted to an LT77 and came with oil cooler, intercooler, and PAS pipes, once again cannot than rustydefender enough! However in his defender it had been fitted by moving and re-welding the engine mounts further back on the chassis. My plan is to use the Steve parker conversions mounts on the engine meaning I can use the original chassis mounts without the need to alter the chassis. Although steve parker have now gone out of business there is someone selling off their old stock on ebay and I managed to get the engine mount and conversion exhaust down pipe (link1 , link2).

My understanding is that by using this conversion RH engine mount and the original LH TD engine mount in the forward position on the 300tdi, the engine will bolt up to the LT77 and use the original chassis mounts. The conversion exhaust down pipe then allows the exhaust to miss the now forward LH engine mount and then bolt up to a stock 300tdi exhaust system (I know this used the rubber hangers rather than U-bolts but you can buy the bolt on brackets to convert). The 300tdi engine will then sit further back than usual so will need extended oil cooler, intercooler, radiator, and PAS pipes, but these all came with the engine.

Have I missed anything? Is there anything conversion wise that I am missing? I feels like, as @Knappster said on rustydefedner's original thread, I have won the lottery and this conversion is going to be very straight forward, which is giving me a feeling I am missing or overlooking something critical!

Could you not get the engine mounts from the doner motor & add flat metal to bolt these on?
Measure from the gearbox mounts forward to see where these need mounting.
Iv always done my chopping this way.

dag019 said:

Bit of an update to this, my 110 (red) now as a station wagon is perfuming flawlessly as expected. I still prefer the hard top body but this is the sacrifices you make by having children. There has been more times that I have had to use the trailer as something will not find in the back but that is manageable.

This thread will now revert back to focussing on the rebuild of the white 110.

I bought a rough shape but salvageable station wagon tub for £100 so the long term plan will be to rebuild the white 110 back into a station wagon. The short term plan is just to bolt the hard top body in place so the vehicle is a complete vehicle (everything is still just resting on the chassis) as time when you have a toddler is in short supply. in order to do this I need to buy and fit the front tub rebuild panels form YRM.

The station wagon tub needs a full floor and all of the crossmembers replacing but the capping's are in good condition and it has all of the seat brackets already fitted! Most of the tub rebuild I have just done with the old body now on the red 110. However on that I did not replace the whole floor. This is something I will need to look into in more detail as to the order to do things, because if I remove the floors, the top hats, and the crossmembers, there is nothing holding the two sides of the tub together any more. I assume i need to do one job as a time but need to work out which one needs doing first! I know @bluedog333 you said you had done this recently. What order did you do things?

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Some pictures of the tub as everyone loves picture. As you can see the Ali corrosion is just as bad as the station wagon body I have just repaired.

Hicap phill said:

Could you not get the engine mounts from the doner motor & add flat metal to bolt these on?
Measure from the gearbox mounts forward to see where these need mounting.
Iv always done my chopping this way.

Click to expand...

I Probabaly could do but currently with a little one, speed and ease are worth paying for as time is very limited. By buying the Steve Parker mount everything should just be an easy bolt in job.