Nodge68
Well-Known Member
First off, change the thread title to something relevant, as that help others later, rather than the forum be full of threads starting with a vehicle specification.
Do you know where the fault is originating? Is it the engine which is juddering, maybe as you increase the throttle?
If so then the first thing to change is the crank position sensor, and clean the plug, as these are a common failure through corrosion of the contacts.
If that doesn't cure it, then take it to an LR specialist, that knows the Freelander 2, and how it works.
Do you know where the fault is originating? Is it the engine which is juddering, maybe as you increase the throttle?
If so then the first thing to change is the crank position sensor, and clean the plug, as these are a common failure through corrosion of the contacts.
If that doesn't cure it, then take it to an LR specialist, that knows the Freelander 2, and how it works.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
The title is probably fine... think its about the only i4 thread!
Being an i4 would a Ford garage be more appropriate?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I assumed the Si4 was a mistake, as I don't believe the i4 was sold in the UK. After the i6 was dropped, the only fuel option was diesel.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Have any been imported from Japan?
They were sold new here and imported 2nd hand from Japan.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Possible, but absolutely pointless in the UK at least.
The Si4 is slower than the SD4, uses over 25% more fuel, doesn't have so much torque, so worse at towing, and potentially more expensive to maintain.
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Sorry it’s an Sd4
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
What RPM does it do it?
What did the garage say, other than never coming across it?
I'd be taking it to someone who has more of a clue on what the issue is.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
If it looses power, then it can be a few common issues. The throttle plate drive gears is a common point of failure, these normally show up when trying to start it, or on light throttle, as this is when the EGR system is in operation.
Alternatively it could be the EGR valve sticking open, although this normally flags a code.
The turbo boost control vanes can get sticky, which then prevent boost from climbing, or hold the boost too high, however this issue normally gives and over boost or under boost code.
The fuel filter can affect running if it's hot and not a genuine filter.
Lots to check I'm afraid, but like all modern diesels, they are complicated machines.
It's also worth having the gearbox, Haldex, PTU and rear diff fluids changed, as all these aren't due for 10 years or 150k miles, which is about 7 years and 100k miles too long, massively reducing the life of these expensive components.
Thanks for that, I’ll have to take it to a garage and get them to try this. I appreciate the help.When i read this my first thought was the throttle body cog gears, worth taking it off opening it up and checking 40 minutes work.
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Why make them in plastic
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will only cost you time to check, then repair your self.
It seems to be getting worse and I can feel it when I go round corners too.
There has also been a jerk that happens at a junction when moving off, this happens once in a while - dealership has had it in several times they say there is nothing wrong, but I heard Landrover are aware of this and it can be reprogrammed to stop it???
