Irishrover said:
Diagnostics should show a faulty sensor..yes
Here is the info. for the Rovacom GEMS engine diagnostics programme relating to sensor inputs..in particular the Lambdas
Realtime live display of the information the electronic control unit of the selected vehicle system is currently deriving from its input sensors.


FUELLING
Loop status: This confirms the current status of the GEMS loop tuning system and tells if it is currently active and working correctly. Options are:
OPEN NOT YET SATISFIED CONDITIONS: The engine is not running or is still too cold to use the feedback from the sensors so when there is nothing wrong, the system is open loop.
CLOSED USING O2 SENSORS NORMALLY: Proper operation with no faults.
OPEN DUE TO DRIVING CONDITIONS: The system has been using the sensors and there are no problems, but it has decided not to use them at the moment as the feedback is not required for correction.
OPEN DUE TO A DETECTED FAULT: There is a fault with the sensor and the system has reverted to using the pure map without the aid of closed loop correction.
CLOSED BUT AN O2 SENSOR IS FAULTY: This can only happen in vehicles fitted with 2 sensors per bank (NAS). Although the system knows one of the sensors is faulty it can switch to using the other one to give closed loop fuel correction.
Pre cat Oxygen Sensor: This is the returning voltage value from the odd/even banks front (pre-catalyst) Oxygen sensor, which under normal operation (closed loop) should switch between very low values (near zero volts) when the mixture is too rich and very high values (near 5.0 volts) when the mixture is too weak. This switching may pause for brief periods, which is normal. Some markets (mainly Australia) had no sensors fitted and work entirely open loop.
Post cat Oxygen Sensor: This is the returning voltage value from the even banks rear (post-catalyst) Oxygen sensor, which under normal operation (closed loop) should switch between very low values (near zero volts) when the mixture is too rich and very high values (near 5.0 volts) when the mixture is too weak. This switching may pause for brief periods, which is normal. Sensors are only fitted after the catalyst in some countries like North America (NAS) and are used mainly for confirming the correct operation of the catalytic converter although this sensor can be used in the event of failure of the main pre-catalyst sensor.
Fuel trim long term: The percentage of alteration from the map value that the system is applying, to compensate for engine temperature, air temperature, fuel temperature, current engine load and other related conditions.
Fuel trim short term: The percentage of alteration from the map value that the system is applying, to momentarily compensate for feedback information, acceleration and other load conditions.
Click to expand...

yep i agree with irish,:eek::eek::eek:;););)
 
Doubt it...if the valve(s) were bad you would have lack of compression, rough running and in the case of the exhaust valves, probably backfiring.
At the mileage, it wouldn't do any harm to refurbish the top end and change any worn parts...money well spent as performance/economy would be improved.
Whenever I do a top end refurb. I always check for worn rocker shafts , rockers & push rods (common problem), cheap to replace. Also it will give the opportunity of removing all the crud and ****e from the rocker covers and heads plus give the opportunity to inspect pistons bores etc.
 
well thats ok if you know what you are doing. actually the rocker arm is what i meant
this is where all the tapping noise is ( on one side ), if the camshaft is worn like old
matie said would there be any noise to listen out for because other than the noise under
the rocker cover it really ticks over really smoothly.

lambdas havent turned up yet but have the spent the last hour, yes hour getting the
other ones off. having trouble getting one off so i gave it another squirt of wd and will
go back later. the connecters where caked in oil.

the gear box is leaking oil as well.
 
j the range said:
have you had heads off since you had car?
Click to expand...
ha ha ha ha ha , i paid jason to put a new rad and condensor on
remember so what would i be doing touching the head. mind you i reckon
i could have done the rad.:doh:

its just a case of knowing. its all easy when you know how but any monkey can learn new tricks..
 
Last edited:
Just follow RAVE and have a go!!!
The tappets are self adjusting and take up any wear automatically, including rocker wear up to the point where they run out of travel.
 
Irishrover said:
Just follow RAVE and have a go!!!
The tappets are self adjusting and take up any wear automatically, including rocker wear up to the point where they run out of travel.
Click to expand...
i downloaded rave to my desktop but it isnt there, it says something
about cd rom image. can you send me the link again and i will try and
download it cd rom drive. please. ta.
 
hammy2909 said:
What ones? All? :rolleyes:

And yes, kudos to him. I'd be scared of doing it incase it didnt work at the end of it all.
Click to expand...

if this rave talks in laymens terms and offers a step by step guide then for
the novice ,prehaps theres a chance. if its like the haynes books that i shant even bother reading it...
 
hunterandthehunted said:
if this rave talks in laymens terms and offers a step by step guide then for
the novice ,prehaps theres a chance. if its like the haynes books that i shant even bother reading it...
Click to expand...

The RAVE is good, but lacks pictures. I likes pictures. It explains where things are in relation to other things, but when you dont know what's what, it's confusing.
 
hammy2909 said:
The RAVE is good, but lacks pictures. I likes pictures. It explains where things are in relation to other things, but when you dont know what's what, it's confusing.
Click to expand...

yeah i agree with that, i have the overhaul manual on cd with plenty of pictures but i think its more for the already competent mechanic.

irishrover if you are about i have got both sensors off and got them
both disconnected. i started her up and looked for the check engine
light to stay on. it went out. is this significant? also they were all
sooted up (not oily which is a bad sign i have been informed ) like my exhaust.
 
Last edited:
all sooty tells you it running rich but you knew it was running rich. you starting to read things into it now i think(i dont blame you for that dont forget a lot of us been where you are) i would not say its easy to do heads but it not as hard as you thinking it is we will all help yo remember that j
 
j the range said:
all sooty tells you it running rich but you knew it was running rich. you starting to read things into it now i think(i dont blame you for that dont forget a lot of us been where you are) i would not say its easy to do heads but it not as hard as you thinking it is we will all help yo remember that j
Click to expand...

thanks for the support j, do you know anthing about the check engine
light. is it supposed to stay on with lambdas disconnected.
how did you get on with yours?
i am still waiting for the bloody coriour to bring me mine
 
sorry forgot to say i would have thought light would have come on but could be only one of the problems as i said to you if you get slight improvement when lambers are changed it could still be mas senser if both where shot at same time that could well be problem. can i ask when you take mas senser off dose it start miss fire ?
 
i dont think so but it idles eratically and eventually stalls. it is imossible to drive with it
disconnected.
in regards to the light not staying on, i am thinking that there is no voltage to the
lambdas hence why that not work. i would'nt know how to test even if i had a
voltage meter
 
do you know how to open the rave manual. i downloaded magic iso but the file is to
big to open for free. they want $30 and was wondering if there was freeware to open
it.
 
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