the_wolf said:
Ill give it another go driving backwards and getting the wheels to turn at slightly different speeds as my initial attempt maybe wasnt sufficient lol i dont have a lot of space to manuevre where i live. I'll have a look for a long empty road down an industrial estate somewhere, hopefully thatll do the job.

Traxy baby do you still have that transfer box lol i might need to pop over and get that off you if i cant sort this mess.
Click to expand...

1.2 or 1.6.. 1.2 probably best.

i was just watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFHCYuPTbfg#t=91 and the guy say if you go offroad without diff lock on and the front spins. it can blow up within 10secs and jam up making it act as locked.

didn't think that would happen so quick unless you are blatting it and wheel spinning like a loon.
 
if you have 1 wheel jacked up it should come out as theres no wind up in system as soon as wheel leaves the ground ,if it wont come out if it is actually locked and not some other fault or misunderstanding,it can only be switch ,too tight a detent ball,selector not been operated by lever or more serious misalignment of diff and output
 
the_wolf said:
Must have replied at the same time as you. No problem, ill let you know and if we cant get it sorted ill probably have the 1.2 off you :). oh and im definitely no expert but two amateurs make a professional dont they? :D
Click to expand...

two can make nice cups of tea! i'll see if the workshop is free just incase ;)
 
jamesmartin said:
if you have 1 wheel jacked up it should come out as theres no wind up in system as soon as wheel leaves the ground ,if it wont come out if it is actually locked and not some other fault or misunderstanding,it can only be switch ,too tight a detent ball,selector not been operated by lever or more serious misalignment of diff and output
Click to expand...

As i said selector seems to be fine as it lets me put it in neutral. Misalignment of diff and output sounds like it might be worth looking into. If i were to take both props off at the same time would this alleviate it any? If not how would i align it
 
jamesmartin said:
if you have 1 wheel jacked up it should come out as theres no wind up in system as soon as wheel leaves the ground ,if it wont come out if it is actually locked and not some other fault or misunderstanding,it can only be switch ,too tight a detent ball,selector not been operated by lever or more serious misalignment of diff and output
Click to expand...

jamesmartin said:
selector in t/box for diff lock not hi/lo, removing both props shouldnt help
Click to expand...

Just so i can refer to what you said. Ive loosened switch somewhat and its still the same. What do you mean by too tight a detent ball and how can i sort this? Selector i will have to get floor out to look at but will remove spigot and see if this helps. If the diff and output are misaligned what can i do about this? Bear in mind that i have replaced the rear prop with a new one as well as having replaced the front axle so its a possibility
 
the_wolf said:
Just so i can refer to what you said. Ive loosened switch somewhat and its still the same. What do you mean by too tight a detent ball and how can i sort this? Selector i will have to get floor out to look at but will remove spigot and see if this helps. If the diff and output are misaligned what can i do about this? Bear in mind that i have replaced the rear prop with a new one as well as having replaced the front axle so its a possibility
Click to expand...

what happened to your front axle? and has the light ever worked?

just wondering if it's been in diff lock since you bought it
 
the_wolf said:
Just so i can refer to what you said. Ive loosened switch somewhat and its still the same. What do you mean by too tight a detent ball and how can i sort this? Selector i will have to get floor out to look at but will remove spigot and see if this helps. If the diff and output are misaligned what can i do about this? Bear in mind that i have replaced the rear prop with a new one as well as having replaced the front axle so its a possibility
Click to expand...

so it seems youve ruled out switch ,get the floor up have alook at this it might give you some idea of how it works
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&r...vkZeB7s3Cl4Afmq-ZkdgqLxQ&ust=1398530569927132
 
trax said:
what happened to your front axle? and has the light ever worked?

just wondering if it's been in diff lock since you bought it
Click to expand...

Nope the light definitely works, just stopped after the wire was wrecked. I'll have a dig around for the other end and get it re-connected





jamesmartin said:
so it seems youve ruled out switch ,get the floor up have alook at this it might give you some idea of how it works
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&r...vkZeB7s3Cl4Afmq-ZkdgqLxQ&ust=1398530569927132
Click to expand...

I can see in my head exactly how it works after looking at the army publication earlier plus I downloaded the lr workshop manual section relating to the trans box and it's been very helpful. I'll have to try and get spigot out tommorow and give that a go
 
I've checked the diff lock selector shaft ( if that's the correct name) and it moves nice and free. Put it all back together and though bugger it I'll take the rear prop off for now. Now with one wheel up and trying to rotate it won't only go so far both forwards and back. Occasionally it would clunk and rotate a little bit further one way but would then go back to only rotating so far. Took rear prop off and tried to rotate and it did the same but I basically just worked it backwards and forwards quite roughly and eventually it turns freely which is good. So now with one wheel up it is rotating perfectly but handbrake drum is still rotating, is this correct? Stick rear prop back on and it will only rotate so far again. Any ideas?
 
Definitely not in gear so diff lock is fubared then :(. Any ideas on what the clunking would have been and why I had to rotate it quite harshly to free it off even with rear prop off?
 
with rear prop off it should turn freely anyhow,could be diff gears etc you need to investigate further,maybe take sump plate off and get some one to turn wheel whilst you look
 
Just to add I stuck transfer box in neutral and with engine started I worked through the gears. With clutch up the gearbox sounded very noisy indeed more so in some gears than others, is this to be expected when stationary with t/box in neutral?
 
If your needing new a gearbox or transferbox I recommend Shabs @ SyncroGearboxes. He's a member on here aswell hope this helps ;)
 
Trax has a 1.2 transfer box which I'll try and have off him. Would make it better for the daily commute anyway and cheaper than rebuilding mine. Cheers gentlemen :)
 
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