Hi, I am told that worn engine mounts may cause the engine to sound harsh at motorway speeds... has anyone any experience of this? In particular has anyone changed the mounts and can offer any advice about how to do it?

John

I swapped mine a few months ago for "non genuine" ones, and it made it worse!!!.......so I would suggest "if" you do it, buy genuine mounts only, I swapped mine back in the end.

As far as changing them, pretty straight forward tbh, an engine crane is ideal to support the engine when doing it, although a trolley jack and some lumps of wood would be ok to. Its just nuts and bolts at the end of the day and I never removed the mounting brackets either, just removed the mounts directly when I did it.

Many thanks.. I will give it a go next week... I assume the new (genuine) mounts did the trick and made the engine quieter to live with?

John

cant say m8, never bought new ones, just sent the "pattern" ones back, will attack it at a later date again when funds can be spent on the genuine mounts, but from what I have read, its not uncommon for non genuine ones to be more harsh and genuine ones seem to "solve" the issue.

Many thanks.. I will give it a go next week... I assume the new (genuine) mounts did the trick and made the engine quieter to live with?

John

ps - just been out to check them and both engine mounts show that the rubber insert is resting on the bottom of the metal dome so I guess they are shot? ie no gap at all!

also - I found the item on the Ozzy forum and it sounds like I have the same symptoms - hopefully a pair of engine mounts will be the cure....

he's the link to the how 2

Australian Land Rover Owners

Update....

The new engine mountings are now fitted and made a big difference! (thank God!). It cruises at 80 mph now with just wind noise and a bit of a drone from the engine so I guess its as good as it is going to be. The old mountings were goosed - the rubber bits were resting on the metal holder - the new ones gave a clearance of about 10mm. I have also fitted a de-cat pipe which has improved the response from the engine quite a lot... certainly worth doing!

The engine mountings were not too bad to do - I managed to get at the drivers side by removing the fuel cooler and although it was a bit tight everything came undone relatively easily. The passenger side was easier - I did not remove the turbo - a "universal joint" adapter on the socket allowed access.

The de-cat pipe was a nightmare! The crossmember really has to come off and despite buying a good quality 6 sided socket two of the bolts rounded off and I had to grind them away to remove it.... (I used a dremmel - very useful little tool for tight places!) The pipe is just a bit awkward to get in and out but was re-fitted with a bit of fiddling. I found it easier to attach the pipe to the exhaust first and then to the manifold.

Overall the jobs were well worth doing and in particular the new engine mountings have made a huge difference to the car - its much more refined at motorway speeds.. 80 mph used to be unbearable but is now relaxed and quiet.

Hope this info helps... and thanks to all who took the time to offer advice... new gearbox mountings tomorrow - and replace the bit of plastic under the engine..

.... so to get from a clattery, noisy rough car to a relatively quiet refined one I have had to fit recon injectors, new engine mounts, bin the EGR valve and fit a de- cat downpipe... well over a £1000 but I paid under the odds for it so I am still on the right side of its value.... hope it keeps going for a bit now - I am sick of crawling under it!

John

Herte is the info from the Ozzy Land Rover forum....


To see if your engine mounts have collapsed crawl underneath and there should be a 10mm+ gap inside the bottom of the mount to the base of the rubber (small round hole). In this case the rubber was pressing out the hole. (same with me!)

RAVE suggests having to remove the turbo, the centrifuge oil drain pipe and the 2 mounts that bolt directly onto the engine block. This is an alternative that worked for us. (I did not remove any of these)

Tools needed
10mm socket and or spanner for the fuel cooler (bottom 2 are hard to get at!)
18mm socket
15mm socket
2 ratchets
Jack with plenty of lift and/or blocks of wood
Ratchet extensions 40cm+ would be best (suggest 1/2")
Universal socket knuckle
Screw driver to remove radiator top cowl (not needed)
A mate to lend a hand and crawl under the vehicle. Long arms

and not all thumbs preferred. (I did it single handed but a helper would have made the job much easier)

Degrease both sides and underneath if needed. Whoever is under there will appreciate it.

First time doing this for both of us and job took 3.5 hours.... next time should be able to get it down to 2.5hrs with these instructions (took me 4 hours)

If a dual battery is installed adjacent to turbo it may make getting the LH engine mount tricky or impossible as the mount exits through that area. SUGGESTION: before going further see if you can pass the new one down through that section.

1) Disconnect battery - advisable at best of times

2) Remove engine cover (underneath)

3) Remove radiator top cowl (I didn't)

4) Remove the 4 bolts retaining the fuel cooler 2 short on top and 2 longer below. (tricky to get at the bottom bolts)

5) Loosen on both engine mounts the 2 bolts to the chassis and the one to the mounting bracket off the block (at least this way you know that you can get both sides done)

6) Remove all 6 nuts and invert the bolts back through the mounts downwards (safety precaution and allows sufficient engine movement)

7) With jack placed as safely biased RH of sump lift motor. In our case the acoustic cover on the back on the motor had to come all the way up to touch the firewall. This lifted and rotated the engine enough to remove the RH engine mount and replace with new one.
NOTE1: the new one was about 15mm higher that the old collapsed one. Engine mount removed and replaced from below.
NOTE2: Double check the matching up of the locator pin on top of the engine mount to the bracket.

8) Replace with the new engine mount and place the 2 bolts back down to locate properly.

9) When lowering jack - Slowly - ensure that the top thread positions through bracket.

10) Now that the RH is done time to move to the LH which has a heat shield over it that needs to be transferred to the new mount.

11) With jack placed as safely biased LH of sump lift motor. In our case the acoustic cover on the back on the motor had to come all the way up to touch the firewall that lifted rotated the engine enough to remove the LH engine mount and replace with new one.
NOTE1: the new one was about 15mm high that the old collapsed one. Engine mount removed and replaced from ABOVE.
NOTE2: Double check the matching up of the locator pin on top of the engine mount to the bracket.

12) replace with the new engine mount and place the 2 bolts back down to locate properly.

13) When lowering jack - Slowly - ensure that the top thread positions through bracket and that the heat shield is sitting properly.

14) Move the mounting bolts the right way around and tighten properly

15) Tighten the top nut.

16) Repeat for the other side.

17) Replace fuel cooler.

18) Replace radiator cowl and radiator cowl and reconnect the battery.

19) Double check that you haven't dislodged wires or anything whilst working through the gaps especially on the turbo side.


Start motor and enjoy the serenity..... (agreed!)

Gday all thx for all info about to change my engine mounts on td5 series 2 disco.
Ive done a lot of reading on forums was just wondering what anyone thought about loosening the transmission mounts too?at least loosen them just from bottom nut to make jacking a little easier?
Im having a go this weekend ill update if it helped or not.
Cheers hansy