muddymonster
New Member
Hi im thinking of doing a series 2 hybrid by cutting a 110 chassis down to 88inch is this easy? any advice more than welcome guys.
muddymonster
New Member
I was going to use a range rover chassis but thought a 110 chassis would be better as it already has the rear cross member and stuff.
Take5
New Member
Shirley a 90 chassis requires less fettling (4 1/2"). Some good pics of an S2 V8 hybrid that belongs to a guy round the corner from me on these links
Doric 4x4 - Thumbnails
Built on a shortened Rangie chassis with rangie axles, brakes, suspension, gearbox, t-box and engine. Just swapped the engine for a new one out of his dads old Rangie that was broken for scrap.
Doric 4x4 - Thumbnails
Built on a shortened Rangie chassis with rangie axles, brakes, suspension, gearbox, t-box and engine. Just swapped the engine for a new one out of his dads old Rangie that was broken for scrap.
muddymonster
New Member
yes but i could only get a 110 chassis ive just bought it and 4 1/2" ???? surely its only 2 inch from 90 to 88
muddymonster
New Member
So what is the wheelbase of a 110???? before i go cutting it to short or not enough
muddymonster
New Member
so a 90 is 92 1/2inch but a 110 is 110inch so i would remove 22inch ??? i just dont want to get it wrong sorry to keep asking
Take5
New Member
Yep, dont do a straight cut, do it step shaped. You'll need to make a simple jig so that both cuts are the same shape when you marry up the two halves. Weld up, then overplate with 3-5mm plate all round or it will fail inspection. Just be warned that you will probably end up on a Q plate due to the new rules, it won't be a tax exempt SII. You could register it as the 110 donor vehicle providing you haven't declared it as scrapped and keep that identity.
muddymonster
New Member
jig??? as in what what do you think? thanks for your help by the way
muddymonster
New Member
So i take a 22inch section out how you have shown now what about when i weld it back up do i brace it up or welfd thick plate over it?
Take5
New Member
You weld the 2 halves together then over plate to add a bit of extra strength/insurance/safety factor. When you weld it, the weld itself is strong enough, but any imperfections will lead to creep failure over time, plus any overheating in the HAZ will creep with time.
Nearly forgot...
Before cutting, it's a good idea to make a simple wooden jig for where your otriggers and x-members are located. When you've shortened it, you can then shorten the jig, realign the 2 chassis halves so that the new chassis will run "true" and not like a landcrab.
Nearly forgot...
Before cutting, it's a good idea to make a simple wooden jig for where your otriggers and x-members are located. When you've shortened it, you can then shorten the jig, realign the 2 chassis halves so that the new chassis will run "true" and not like a landcrab.
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
If you want an even stronger joint. shove a length of steel plate diagonally inside the chassis and weld it to the 1st section, when you insert the 2nd setion to close the join drill a couple of holes in the top and bottom corners of the box section and plug weld the diagonal plate to the box section. before seam welding the joint. It will strengthen the join and prevent it cracking in the future.
Like this.
Like this.
