sorea · Oct 5, 2016

Hello first no second post I have introduced myself.
the door locks on my 2004 2 door have stoped locking they unlock fine just dont lock. I have been told that door locks from a rover 75 are identical and half the price has anyone used these locks as replacment for land rover they have the same part number ??
thanks in advance Sorea

Nodge68 · Oct 5, 2016

Not used them myself. But they are the same parts however

sorea · Oct 7, 2016

Well I got my door locks this morning from a rover 75 and have managed to fit the passenger side. I have no manual so looked at old posts on doorlocks that helped a lot i am going to leave the drivers door till next week I broke to many nails today.

I now have to get the cable kit and a glass carrier for my back window that has been propped up with wood for the last 18 months.

gstuart · Oct 7, 2016

sorea said:
Well I got my door locks this morning from a rover 75 and have managed to fit the passenger side. I have no manual so looked at old posts on doorlocks that helped a lot i am going to leave the drivers door till next week I broke to many nails today.

I now have to get the cable kit and a glass carrier for my back window that has been propped up with wood for the last 18 months.

u do end up with sore hands that's for sure

if i may say when u do ur back window, on the bottom of the glass u will see some lines

make sure when the window goes up that it's even both sides, as it can otherwise cause a leak

hope u get on ok , is fiddly but taking ur time does prevent some sore knuckles and a lot of swearing , lol

if u get stuck there's always plenty of advice here to help ,

Alibro · Oct 7, 2016

The cable kits are very hard to fit when you try doing it wrong. Don't ask me how I know.

There are Youtube videos that show you how it's done so well worth a watch.
Oh and welcome to the site. I don't know too many guys who would contemplate swapping locks never mind a girlie. Respect.

As for window regulators they are a faff but of the ones I've done the rears are the most likely to work, I did a rear no probs but the front I did fell apart in days.

sorea · Oct 8, 2016

Thank you all so much I have just taken the back door panel of and have got the innards out the drivers side glass clamp " the cast alloy piece that holds the glass is broken , How hard is it to get a new one.
Tomorow I am going to do the drivers side handbrake cable that has siezed any advice or tips please.

sorea · Oct 8, 2016

As you can imagine there have been lots of Bush fixes over the last few years so i am slowly going to work my way round as i do love my Lenny so i will be asking a lot of questions I have looked at the EGR posts and know that mine has been disabled with a copper coin for years now i am back in england do i put it back to work .
I have been told it will show in an MOT

Joe_H · Oct 8, 2016

sorea said:
As you can imagine there have been lots of Bush fixes over the last few years so i am slowly going to work my way round as i do love my Lenny so i will be asking a lot of questions I have looked at the EGR posts and know that mine has been disabled with a copper coin for years now i am back in england do i put it back to work .
I have been told it will show in an MOT

Hi and welcome to the forums.
No, it will not show in an MOT, do not worry about it.

Alibro · Oct 8, 2016

sorea said:
Thank you all so much I have just taken the back door panel of and have got the innards out the drivers side glass clamp " the cast alloy piece that holds the glass is broken , How hard is it to get a new one.
Tomorow I am going to do the drivers side handbrake cable that has siezed any advice or tips please.

Scrappies are full of dead Freelanders so no problems getting bits.

gstuart · Oct 9, 2016

Alibro said:
Scrappies are full of dead Freelanders so no problems getting bits.

always good in collecting them little clips , screws etc that can cost a fortune at the dealers

when i converted mine from a commercial to having seats i found out the round clips that joined the carpets together were around £8 each , so made sure i got them at the breakers , along with some other bits of course

gstuart · Oct 9, 2016

sorea said:
Thank you all so much I have just taken the back door panel of and have got the innards out the drivers side glass clamp " the cast alloy piece that holds the glass is broken , How hard is it to get a new one.
Tomorow I am going to do the drivers side handbrake cable that has siezed any advice or tips please.

make sure the handbrake arms aren't jammed up

if u remove the hand brake cables, u can hang them up and poor oil down the outer sleeve so there nice and free, depending what condition there in or if u fancy doing that

i replaced mine as a pair in the end , just so it was sorted out

want to adjust the handbrake normally to 3 x clicks

Joe_H · Oct 9, 2016

gstuart said:
make sure the handbrake arms aren't jammed up

if u remove the hand brake cables, u can hang them up and poor oil down the outer sleeve so there nice and free, depending what condition there in or if u fancy doing that

i replaced mine as a pair in the end , just so it was sorted out

want to adjust the handbrake normally to 3 x clicks

Ref cable lube - here's what we used to do - works great...
Get a plastic syringe - 20ml / 50ml whatever / get a rubber grommet that fits tightly over the outer of the bowden cable (you can usually tweak it over the cable end / nipple / T rod ok)
Cut the end of the syringe carefully to remove the needle connection and a bit more - just enough to leave a hole slightly smaller than the grommet outer - slip now opened out syringe over cable end and push onto grommet outer ring channel. Remove syringe plunger - fill with the best quality and performing freeing oil available (diesel fuel) and then re-insert plunger and press slowly - job sorted.. after diesel you can use a bit of engine oil (mixed with diesel if needed)

Can be re-used plenty of times. A set of grommets with same outer and different inners work for many cables - ie - push bikes etc. Also used to use them on marine cables and any teleflex stuff.

About 50p and last for years.

Sounds complex but actually really really simple. (like me

)

gstuart · Oct 9, 2016

Joe_H said:
Ref cable lube - here's what we used to do - works great...
Get a plastic syringe - 20ml / 50ml whatever / get a rubber grommet that fits tightly over the outer of the bowden cable (you can usually tweak it over the cable end / nipple / T rod ok)
Cut the end of the syringe carefully to remove the needle connection and a bit more - just enough to leave a hole slightly smaller than the grommet outer - slip now opened out syringe over cable end and push onto grommet outer ring channel. Remove syringe plunger - fill with the best quality and performing freeing oil available (diesel fuel) and then re-insert plunger and press slowly - job sorted.. after diesel you can use a bit of engine oil (mixed with diesel if needed)

Can be re-used plenty of times. A set of grommets with same outer and different inners work for many cables - ie - push bikes etc. Also used to use them on marine cables and any teleflex stuff.

About 50p and last for years.

Sounds complex but actually really really simple. (like me )

that's a bloody cleaver idea , will have to pinch that one

but u know i would have forgotten about it when i'm doing something like that again

sorea

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