If the car is asking for an EKA code there's no diagnostics that'll be able to read the becm. The becm is in an alarmed state.
If the Becm has alarmed itself for whatever reason, the chances are that if the car is not responding to the known working EKA code, then either, the door lock mechanism is shot, or the data inside the becm that stores the EKA would of corrupted. It usually converts itself to hex code.
Regarding the nanocom, Colin from Blackbox Box did say he was going to send me one to play with as it's quite an impressive little tool, but i'm still quite sure the software & abilities of the nanocom will not overcome this keycode lockout. I will find out for sure by emailing the guy who designed it.
Nanocom, like Faultmate will allow direct entry of the EKA code and so will bypass a defective door lock mechanism.
 
Got the Nanocom with me. I'll be heading back up the A34 tomorrow so I'll dogleg off to Andover and see what it picks up.

What's the giveaway that the BECM is in an alarmed state? Any messages on the dash or LED flashing even after unlocking?
 
There's two stages to a Keycode Lockout. The first stage diagnostics can get in.
The 2nd stage Alarmed lockout, nothing will get past it.

Unfortunately, by the time I get to it the car has usually had a fit.
 
There's two stages to a Keycode Lockout. The first stage diagnostics can get in.
The 2nd stage Alarmed lockout, nothing will get past it.

Unfortunately, by the time I get to it the car has usually had a fit.

Yep, the difficult is deciding which state it's in. If the latter, it's becm out and direct access and over to you Rick:eek:
 
There's two stages to a Keycode Lockout. The first stage diagnostics can get in.
The 2nd stage Alarmed lockout, nothing will get past it.

Unfortunately, by the time I get to it the car has usually had a fit.

Just trying to upgrade my knowledge of the p38 " The 2nd stage Alarmed lockout, nothing will get past it. " so what would need to be done in that case , there is nothing wrong with mine just very interested .
 
Just trying to upgrade my knowledge of the p38 " The 2nd stage Alarmed lockout, nothing will get past it. " so what would need to be done in that case , there is nothing wrong with mine just very interested .
Take it out and post it to Rick, or buy a Faultmate and the SM035 direct access module if you are rich and brave.
 
Take it out and post it to Rick, or buy a Faultmate and the SM035 direct access module if you are rich and brave.

Ah , so the BECM needs major opp / complicated work to put it right.

So with that work done would that be the end of The 2nd stage Alarmed lockout or could it return .. Find it very interesting in case it ever happens to me , been lucky so far with my p38s by the sounds of it but will for sure hit me one day.

Many thanks for your explanation ..
 
Ah , so the BECM needs major opp / complicated work to put it right.

So with that work done would that be the end of The 2nd stage Alarmed lockout or could it return .. Find it very interesting in case it ever happens to me , been lucky so far with my p38s by the sounds of it but will for sure hit me one day.

Many thanks for your explanation ..
It only gets to the second stage in unusual circumstances, battery problems ham fisted multiple attempts at the EKA code I believe.
 
Well, I stopped there this evening and we had a fiddle. Bear in mind the battery was flat so this was done with a jump pack attached.

It is a manual diesel 2.5 DSE.

The engine code was in synch so no issues there. I entered the EKA code. There are 2 places to put it in: the Utility part of the Nanocom (oddly when I did this it said headlights and sidelights dipped instead of an OK message. Not sure if this is normal?). Also, there is a box in the Alarm section. Jack, the good news is that I checked mine when I got back and the EKA code doesn't show once it is in.

What was different in mine was when I read the fault codes in the RF module it comes back with the BECM received a valid code from the remote, or something similar. IIRC yours said the BECM had failed to receive a valid code from the remote.

Also, Jack's EDC module had various faults (he has them written down) but the one at the top said there was an immobilisation linkage failure or something like that.

Nice looking motor though. For 185k it has either been looked after VERY carefully or someone has replaced anything that wore out with original parts.

On the dash it comes up with Engine Disabled and the usual windows not set warnings. Think an alternator one flicked up at one stage but that's probably because of the battery pack. Have I missed any others Jack?
 
Just remembered something else. IIRC your settings (BECM?) said it was an early EDC engine. Yours is '96, mine is '95. Mine says it is a late EDC engine. How weird is that? Now, if mine wrong or yours wrong or have they had engine swaps or what? Pretty certain I checked all the chassis and engine codes when I bought mine but I may have just checked the chassis. Cannot remember now. Then again, maybe it doesn't matter?
 
Jack, do I remember you saying you disconnected the RF unit in the back? Did you take all wires off or just the one to the aerial on the rear quarter? Might be worth reconnecting and retrying with a fully charged battery?
 
Hi Mate,
Thanks again for popping around and plugging it in! All of the details we found are -
EMS 2672
Engine immobiliser link fault edc module
type;to low, log, current, intermittent
Becm has not received a valid signal
Becm has not received a valid radio code

Its pretty tidy for the mileage, hopefully it will run again soon and i can enjoy the bloody thing :)

Thanks again for your help
 
Jack, do I remember you saying you disconnected the RF unit in the back? Did you take all wires off or just the one to the aerial on the rear quarter? Might be worth reconnecting and retrying with a fully charged battery?
+1 the RF unit needs to be connected (albeit bar the blue aerial wire)
 
I've got the EDC for the diesel but I also have the GEMS module for the earlier V8 petrol. Later petrol models had the Thor engine and that needs another module. Most of the modules seem common to all engines and appear to work on all.

To be honest I just e-mailed them and told them what I wanted and they did it all. Think they rang me back at one stage for credit card details.

I think (!!!) I bought NCOM06 as the basic unit for the diesel module and then added module NCOM17 for the GEMS engine module. If you want Thor you'll want the Motronic NCOM15 module and then if you want Discos or Defender stuff then you'll be looking at further modules.

I'll see if I can pull out Colin's e-mail address and PM it to you. He was very helpful. Safest to check before you part with that much cash.

J
 

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