Irishrover
Well-Known Member
How much room have you got for access??
If the head is shot completely, the only option may be to drill the head off, leaving the short length of screw shank proud after you remove the flange which should come out with a good pair of vice grips.
May sound a stupid question but have you used a Philips screwdriver instead of a Pozidrive.
When you come to refit, suggest you get a Stainless cap screw (Allen screw).
I think it's either M5 or M6 around 20-25mm long and remember to put a washer under the head and some anti sieze on the threads first.
If you are removing it with the dash in place, I know how pushed for space it is you need to be a Gynacologist!!
If the head is shot completely, the only option may be to drill the head off, leaving the short length of screw shank proud after you remove the flange which should come out with a good pair of vice grips.
May sound a stupid question but have you used a Philips screwdriver instead of a Pozidrive.
When you come to refit, suggest you get a Stainless cap screw (Allen screw).
I think it's either M5 or M6 around 20-25mm long and remember to put a washer under the head and some anti sieze on the threads first.
If you are removing it with the dash in place, I know how pushed for space it is you need to be a Gynacologist!!
iansupra
Active Member
have tried pozi and phillips, pozi first though because the other screw heads are pozi,Not a lot of room no, luckily i have fairly small hands (and am a very patiant engineer) cant get in to drill (was easy on the front brake disc screw the w/e though). I think i need to break the screw head off 
.I wish that air duct would come out!!!
Any more suggestions, all are welcome even if they sound obvious.
Cheers,Ian.
.I wish that air duct would come out!!!Any more suggestions, all are welcome even if they sound obvious.
Cheers,Ian.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
The duct which runs vertically can be moved away, takes a bit of brute force though-have a look on Range Rovers at the section on blend motor replacement and O ring replacement procedure.
The inlet connection of the heater matrix is plastic with a brass nut insert moulded into it, there is also a spare moulded into it in case the original strips and the clamp strap also has a matching spare hole.
Any chance of getting a pointed nose small vice grip on the head to give it a twist to start?-Another thought, is to use a Dremel (If you can get it in) and grind the head off. Would be against trying to chisel the head off as this could break the plastic inlet connection-then you are in real s**t. Gentle use of a centre punch on the rim of the head may be enough to "Crack" the screw.
The inlet connection of the heater matrix is plastic with a brass nut insert moulded into it, there is also a spare moulded into it in case the original strips and the clamp strap also has a matching spare hole.
Any chance of getting a pointed nose small vice grip on the head to give it a twist to start?-Another thought, is to use a Dremel (If you can get it in) and grind the head off. Would be against trying to chisel the head off as this could break the plastic inlet connection-then you are in real s**t. Gentle use of a centre punch on the rim of the head may be enough to "Crack" the screw.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Forgot to mention that the ducting will not break, it's fairly flexible and will stand a lot of pulling about yet go back to it's original shape easily.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Did you try a stubby Pozi.-the right angle cranked type worked for me cos I could get a fair amount of leverage on it.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Here's a bit more info on this site Heater Matrix - RangieWiki The Range Rover Wiki
rick071155
New Member
hiya ian , ive just read your post and i also have to do my o rings very soon and although iam a motor engineer by trade i have never had the pleasure of this little task however after speaking to a good friend of mine who has done the job many times over at the landrover specialists where he works , he claims by far the easiest method is to use a very long screwdriver from the front of the console or alternatively a 1/4 drive socket extension , he reckons one and half hours start to finish , i might give him mine to do anyway i hope this bit of info may help you cheers.
rick.
however after speaking to a good friend of mine who has done the job many times over at the landrover specialists where he works , he claims by far the easiest method is to use a very long screwdriver from the front of the console or alternatively a 1/4 drive socket extension , he reckons one and half hours start to finish , i might give him mine to do anyway i hope this bit of info may help you cheers.rick.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
See my earlier post......
Use a Stainless Socket Cap Head screw which needs an allen key and you won't have this problem again. Furthermore if you use a ball ended allen key you can get them in at an angle and they will still work. Don't go overboard tightening it though as you can get loads more torque than with a screwdriver!!-from memory, I think the thread is M5 X 0.8 pitch (Standard)
Use a Stainless Socket Cap Head screw which needs an allen key and you won't have this problem again. Furthermore if you use a ball ended allen key you can get them in at an angle and they will still work. Don't go overboard tightening it though as you can get loads more torque than with a screwdriver!!-from memory, I think the thread is M5 X 0.8 pitch (Standard)
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
If you have probs getting hold of the screw, drop me a PM as there's a great guy on Egay (Dead cheap & great service) and I will let you have his details.
Pleased your on a winner.
Another tip- watch the temperature sensor which clips on to the heater pipe-the clip is flimsy and snaps like a carrot if you catch it wrong.
Pleased your on a winner.
Another tip- watch the temperature sensor which clips on to the heater pipe-the clip is flimsy and snaps like a carrot if you catch it wrong.
Dopey
Well-Known Member
Ahh now i remember......thats why i have an 1958 Series II when all the new ones no tits up, its back to the trusty SII, at least i know i can leave it for 3 months or more and it will still start up......and i can fix things on it (a novel idea in the old days) but it seems it just didn't catch on (someone ((Dealers)) weren't making enough ££ out of them) you can fix them all by your selves, and an engine (2.25) with gearbox, starter, dynamo and all the other bits cost me under £25.......AND its £0 Tax!!
when all the new ones no tits up, its back to the trusty SII, at least i know i can leave it for 3 months or more and it will still start up......and i can fix things on it (a novel idea in the old days) but it seems it just didn't catch on (someone ((Dealers)) weren't making enough ££ out of them) you can fix them all by your selves, and an engine (2.25) with gearbox, starter, dynamo and all the other bits cost me under £25.......AND its £0 Tax!! eightinavee
Well-Known Member
Glad you got it sorted,just got your PM - been on holiday down in "Cornburger" for a week,annoying the locals !
