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dont forget to let us know how its going..
there's a lot of good advice here..
another tip (as I read you might need help to put everything back together and check where the hoses go) is to take pictures before taking anything apart....
I've started getting into the habit of doing this when striping down and rebuilding a 1976 CB750 chopper... and now I do it with anything.
It's like having your own Haynes Manual (but better) on how to put things back together...
there's a lot of good advice here..
another tip (as I read you might need help to put everything back together and check where the hoses go) is to take pictures before taking anything apart....
I've started getting into the habit of doing this when striping down and rebuilding a 1976 CB750 chopper... and now I do it with anything.
It's like having your own Haynes Manual (but better) on how to put things back together...
he got it.. £30 well worth it.. felt a bit stupid cos he made it look easy but at the end of the day it helps to realise there are things these guys know that you don't sometimes.. helps with the learning curve..
what did he do different? climbed on top of the engine bay so he could pull whereas i was standing on the floor pushing.. oh yeah and he had a single hex 5/8 whereas I'd been using a twin hex.. which I knew was part of my problem anyway..
so internet hunt for a 5/8 now ready for putting the new bolts back on at the weekend so i don't round one.. although the torque settings don't look that high better to be safe than sorry..
also need a new torque wrench as mine starts from 40nm but the rave says to tighten to 20.. then 1/2 turn..
what did he do different? climbed on top of the engine bay so he could pull whereas i was standing on the floor pushing.. oh yeah and he had a single hex 5/8 whereas I'd been using a twin hex.. which I knew was part of my problem anyway..
so internet hunt for a 5/8 now ready for putting the new bolts back on at the weekend so i don't round one.. although the torque settings don't look that high better to be safe than sorry..
also need a new torque wrench as mine starts from 40nm but the rave says to tighten to 20.. then 1/2 turn..
good one Tigger - glad yu got it sorted. - now the real work starts - dont furget - lots of piccies......
we like piccies.
- now the real work starts - dont furget - lots of piccies......we like piccies.
that's what he had CharlesY.. in case he needed to put air on it.. which he didn't.. job done.. and I've undone all the other headbolts as well and cracked the join on the gasket.. there's a metal water pipe comes up through the alternator bracket so not sure whether it's gonna be easier to take that off or take the bracket off.. was hoping to take the bracket off once the head was out (just for the sake of cleaning and so on) so will have a go later on hopefully to see if I can get the jubilee clip undone and the metal brace that holds the pipe upright.. then the head will lift off and it's clean and re-assemble... will take pics once it's all stripped, cleaned and laid out on the patio... I know I would be in for grief from some if I showed you the state of it now with mud everywhere...
no honestly.. there's mud eveywhere.. including where it dropped down off the wiring loom into the cylinders when I lifted the other head.. I know I gotta get every single spec out before I re-assemble.. in terms of piccies though.. when I was disconnecting the vaporiser from the heater matrix one of thses snapped.. any idea what it might be called so I can search for one to buy.. motor factors hadn't a clue.. will try wickes at some point but even then they aint all that switched on in there and I'd really like to have a name for the bit I'm looking for...
Attachments
if it helps.. the one end screws into the vaporiser, the other end is push fitted to the pipe and then jubilee clipped.. the one I snapped snapped at the screw fitting (I wasn't gonna take it off just push it out of the way so the entire thread was left behind)
can't run the motor even on petrol until I fix it cos otherwise It'll pump all the water out the top of the block...
can't run the motor even on petrol until I fix it cos otherwise It'll pump all the water out the top of the block...
Just so.
Ideally when doing things up, or UNdoing them, you want a TWO handled lever, with the levers exactly opposite each other, and two people on the levers applying torque. This way almost eliminates any tendency to try to BEND the bolt / nut or to apply forces other than pure rotation torque.
I reckon the cash you spent WAS worth it. It was a once-in-a-lifetime investment, and it may have saved you BIG BUCKS if you had persisted all by yourself and stuffed the bolthead or worse. Next time you'll have a better idea and CONFIDENCE to do it yourself.
Good Job.
Keep us infomed as the job progresses!
CharlesY
thanks CharlesY
that torque wrench is in lb ft and not nm.. did a conversion online and 20nm is 14.7512206635099
question is.. would tightening to 15lb ft and then 1/2 turn +/- 5 degrees be good enough...
or should I buy this instead...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3-8-torque-wrench-aircraft-tools-sockets-ratchets-Nm_W0QQitemZ260400706731QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item260400706731&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
???
and anyone know what this is called???
unless yu use a calibration device - yu will be lucky to get it within 5% anyway. - go for it
unless yu use a calibration device - yu will be lucky to get it within 5% anyway. - go for it
by calibration device do you mean a bit of tipex on the head of the bolt to tell me when it's 180 degrees lol..
I've asked if they have one in NM otherwise will get the other one.. feedback a bit lower but price near enough the same..
Trewey
Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
Automotive torque wrenches are only accurate to +/-10% anyway, and that's the expensive ones!
You've got to pay a lot of money to get more accurate than that and even then other factors come into play - the condition of the threads, any lubrication on the threads, the accuracy of the thread machining, the materials etc. All these have an affect on the amount of tension in the bolt for a specific tightening torque applied.
What I'm saying is, don't worry that much about achieveing dead accurate torques.
You've got to pay a lot of money to get more accurate than that and even then other factors come into play - the condition of the threads, any lubrication on the threads, the accuracy of the thread machining, the materials etc. All these have an affect on the amount of tension in the bolt for a specific tightening torque applied.
What I'm saying is, don't worry that much about achieveing dead accurate torques.
Trewey
Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
and even that's only accurate to +/-2%.
yup.
