classic kev
Well-Known Member
I have tried everything you list that I have the tools for and can be done on my own...
here is a pic that might help see how hard it is to get anything in there..
quote]
That's nasty that is. Of all the bolts on a V8 you don't want trouble with the head bolts at each end are the ones. I did the heads on mine just two weeks ago and didn't have that aggro.
In all probability that head bolt has seized due to corrosion. You are unlikely to be able to get any penetrating oil where you need it. You are unlikely to be able to get anything in there to grind the top off so this is a nightmare!! You may be able to get a windy gun on it using a decent impact socket and extension or use a deep set impact socket. If the bolt head has been rounded off, hammer a slightly smallr socket on - be prepared to loose the socket. Using a heavy duty windy gun you might be able to literally hammer it loose but you will need a good size gun and compressor. Failing that you will need to get somebody to weld a suitable size nut/bot to it and start again.
The only other thought I have is to put the other head bolts in, torque them up and then go at the bolt that is stuck. I just hope you manage to get it loose or you may have to take the engine out so you can get at the thing properly. BTW if you put the other bolts in and re-torque the head down, make sure there is no oil or water dribbled down inside or you could crack your block:doh:.
Hope that helps ya mate, I wouldn't want that headache.
I live in the countryside.. just don't know any farmers or scrappies..
anyway.. if I wasn't on a deadline then I would persevere on my own / ask you lot for help etc.. unfortunately I have to have it back on the road by the end of this weekend as the following weekend I am off on hols with the caravan... so the fella is coming out to help me free the bolt.. once the bolt is free I can't se why i wouldn't be able to put the heads, manifolds and so on back myself (I took them off after all) .. I may come back to you guys for help working out where all the pipes for the cooling go but I have been pretty good about laying them out in roughly the right order (I think).. the injector loom is scaring me a little because when I took it off it seemed to be really obvious and I figured there was no way I could make a mistake putting it back on.. now it looks like a mess of wires and I wish I'd labeled it up.. so providing this guy can get the last bolt out in the morning I'm fairly confident..
anyway.. if I wasn't on a deadline then I would persevere on my own / ask you lot for help etc.. unfortunately I have to have it back on the road by the end of this weekend as the following weekend I am off on hols with the caravan... so the fella is coming out to help me free the bolt.. once the bolt is free I can't se why i wouldn't be able to put the heads, manifolds and so on back myself (I took them off after all) .. I may come back to you guys for help working out where all the pipes for the cooling go but I have been pretty good about laying them out in roughly the right order (I think).. the injector loom is scaring me a little because when I took it off it seemed to be really obvious and I figured there was no way I could make a mistake putting it back on.. now it looks like a mess of wires and I wish I'd labeled it up.. so providing this guy can get the last bolt out in the morning I'm fairly confident..
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Pipes and looms are actually quite easy - just take your time!! the most common mistake is swapping number 1 injector for the temp sensor and on the other bank, swapping No2 injector for temp. thermistor. you should hopefully find the cables and pipes will want to lay naturally to where they were but if you get confuzzled, post a pic I'm sure somebody will be able to sort it. Good luck.
I have tried everything you list that I have the tools for and can be done on my own...
here is a pic that might help see how hard it is to get anything in there..
quote]
That's nasty that is. Of all the bolts on a V8 you don't want trouble with the head bolts at each end are the ones. I did the heads on mine just two weeks ago and didn't have that aggro.
In all probability that head bolt has seized due to corrosion. You are unlikely to be able to get any penetrating oil where you need it. You are unlikely to be able to get anything in there to grind the top off so this is a nightmare!! You may be able to get a windy gun on it using a decent impact socket and extension or use a deep set impact socket. If the bolt head has been rounded off, hammer a slightly smallr socket on - be prepared to loose the socket. Using a heavy duty windy gun you might be able to literally hammer it loose but you will need a good size gun and compressor. Failing that you will need to get somebody to weld a suitable size nut/bot to it and start again.
The only other thought I have is to put the other head bolts in, torque them up and then go at the bolt that is stuck. I just hope you manage to get it loose or you may have to take the engine out so you can get at the thing properly. BTW if you put the other bolts in and re-torque the head down, make sure there is no oil or water dribbled down inside or you could crack your block:doh:
Hope that helps ya mate, I wouldn't want that headache.
thanks mate.. the engine out is what I'm scared of TBH but really I don't know how much that would help seeing as the bolt is recessed so deep in the head.. only other thing I could think of was to take a grinder and cut the head (the cylinder head) off.. what's a new head gonna cost me.. problem is if it's that bad I don't know how I would get the rest of the bolt out the block.. like you say.. it's the worst place for one to seize.. even if it had been the same place on the other head it would have been easier..
not sure how I would use a hammer and a big chisel.. if you mean to try and cut the head off the bolt I don't think so without damaging the head at the same time.. if you mean to cut a slot and give it a turn it might be possible but there aint a lot of swinging room in there and there's naff all room round the bolt if I slip...
have yu got a dremel?
beware yu dont get metal filings go down the oil return passages - best to stuff paper towel down any passages you can see.
beware yu dont get metal filings go down the oil return passages - best to stuff paper towel down any passages you can see.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
Tigger. I have a full set of rounded nut extractors that will do the job. I also have stud extractors if the head of the bolt should sheer. Unfortunately I am in Kernow at the moment. If you don't get it off and sorted by sat give me a shout. I'll be back sat afternoon/evening. I'm on nights on sunday so I can give you a hand sunday daytime if needed.
i was thinking of cutting down thru the head - not across it.
thank you.. I really hope this guy will be the end of it but TBH he doesn't know landy's.. (took me about 10 minutes on the phone to convince him the bolts are 5/8) but at least he's a second pair of hands to try some of the bits I can't do single handed.. and he has the air gun which I don't...
anyway.. if he don't help I will give you a shout... bet you cost more than £30 an hour tho ..
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I have only got a normal impact driver and I am on my own.. nobody else here.. just me...
I got the drill out intending to drill down through the bolt.. sometimes the heat and vibration can make it start to turn under the pressure.. but because of the way the bolt is deep inside the head and the bulkhead is right behind it i can't get the drill on it.. the dremel wont get down to it at all because the bolt is 3" deep in the head and the head is wrapped round it at that point..
same problem really.. if I have to I will buy some better drill bits that will cut straight in from a standing start but my bits would almost certainly skew off if I don't come in with power on and there just isn't room..
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